Overcharging demons
Overcharging demons
1992 RS automatic 5.0 l, stock motor but aftermarket alarm, was idling oddly, low when waiting at a stop light, etc, and getting progressively worse. Some work was done by someone less than a professional which included changing out the starter and the fuel injectors (don't ask). Fast forward a while and a professional worked on it, fixing what the other person did and replacing the alternator, twice.
From what I understand, when the alternator is disconnected, the car runs wonderfully, it just does not charge and the oil pressure gauge jumps around randomly. When the alternator is connected, it pulls too much from the motor and causes it to stall as the idle is all over the place. It was because of this issue that the mechanic changed the alternator twice, first thinking it was just a bad replacement alternator. After spending about 30 hours of looking for some cause, the mechanic gave up and sent the car home.
The car has even had a visit to a dealership which suggested one of the fuel injectors was bad. They'd be happy to fix that for $700 then get into the electrical/idle issue. No, thank you. (If it runs well without the alternator then how can a fuel injector be bad?)
Short of paying an electrical specialist by the hour for a week's worth of wages to try to diagnose the root issue, is there some workaround that might be possible, like with an external battery charger maybe, or any other ideas? It's not a daily driver but used maybe twice a week.
From what I understand, when the alternator is disconnected, the car runs wonderfully, it just does not charge and the oil pressure gauge jumps around randomly. When the alternator is connected, it pulls too much from the motor and causes it to stall as the idle is all over the place. It was because of this issue that the mechanic changed the alternator twice, first thinking it was just a bad replacement alternator. After spending about 30 hours of looking for some cause, the mechanic gave up and sent the car home.
The car has even had a visit to a dealership which suggested one of the fuel injectors was bad. They'd be happy to fix that for $700 then get into the electrical/idle issue. No, thank you. (If it runs well without the alternator then how can a fuel injector be bad?)
Short of paying an electrical specialist by the hour for a week's worth of wages to try to diagnose the root issue, is there some workaround that might be possible, like with an external battery charger maybe, or any other ideas? It's not a daily driver but used maybe twice a week.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Alternuttor
It sounds as if the wiring to the alt is incorrect.
The heavier red wire goes to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.
The thinner red wire goes to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.
The brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
If You’re Passed By Your Own Tire On The Track, It’s Time For A Pit Stop
.
The heavier red wire goes to the positive stud, and should have power at all times.
The thinner red wire goes to terminal S (the sensing circuit) and should have power at all times.
The brown wire goes to terminal F (the turn-on input) and should have power when the key is in the RUN position.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
If You’re Passed By Your Own Tire On The Track, It’s Time For A Pit Stop
.
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