Not entirely sure if this belongs here, but...
I'm using the tilt column that was factory to my 87 in the 88 (since the 88 had a non-tilt with the annoying key lock lever AND a Grant wheel installed). I had taken the column completely down to all of its components shortly after removing it 2 years ago, cleaned and lubed everything, tightened and used locktite on the 4 screwy bolts (mine are a torx E8, if anyone cares... seen standard ones in other threads), and put it back together again. The column has been disassembled and reassembled before (I did it the first time as well because parts needed to be swapped AND those 4 bolts were loose when I got it from the junkyard), and worked fine.
Now for the issue. The ignition switch seems to do what it wants in relation to the key. I rarely have the ACC position, and now can't seem to get START. I have the switch itself adjusted to the max towards the steering wheel so I can get START, but it seems like the rod just isn't doing it. I'm thinking that maybe the actuator rack and gear need to be replaced? I know the rod hasn't been damaged, and it seems like sometimes, when you manually put the rod itself in one position (usually ACC) and try to get the lock there, the lock spins freely. Should I get an ignition actuator gear and rack kit before I go to split the column again?
I'm using the tilt column that was factory to my 87 in the 88 (since the 88 had a non-tilt with the annoying key lock lever AND a Grant wheel installed). I had taken the column completely down to all of its components shortly after removing it 2 years ago, cleaned and lubed everything, tightened and used locktite on the 4 screwy bolts (mine are a torx E8, if anyone cares... seen standard ones in other threads), and put it back together again. The column has been disassembled and reassembled before (I did it the first time as well because parts needed to be swapped AND those 4 bolts were loose when I got it from the junkyard), and worked fine.
Now for the issue. The ignition switch seems to do what it wants in relation to the key. I rarely have the ACC position, and now can't seem to get START. I have the switch itself adjusted to the max towards the steering wheel so I can get START, but it seems like the rod just isn't doing it. I'm thinking that maybe the actuator rack and gear need to be replaced? I know the rod hasn't been damaged, and it seems like sometimes, when you manually put the rod itself in one position (usually ACC) and try to get the lock there, the lock spins freely. Should I get an ignition actuator gear and rack kit before I go to split the column again?
Supreme Member
Sounds to me like the switch itself may be bad, i've had this happen and if the rod isnt bent the switch usually fixes it.
I don't think it's the switch, mostly because it seems like it's not being actuated by the mechanism in the column. Especially with the thing where I can manually put the switch into a position with the rod and the lock basically freewheels. The switch worked just fine before I rebuilt the column from the ground up. I know I had a bit of a problem with it when I first got it back together this last time, not getting ACC, but I managed to get that back. It seems to have gotten worse over time.
I think I'll start with the rack kit first and then go for the switch if it doesn't work. Can't hurt with the parts in the column being at least 26 years old (I think the donor may have been an 85 or so, but I pulled it so long ago I've forgotten). Worse comes to worse, I might need to track down the actuator rod as well.
I think I'll start with the rack kit first and then go for the switch if it doesn't work. Can't hurt with the parts in the column being at least 26 years old (I think the donor may have been an 85 or so, but I pulled it so long ago I've forgotten). Worse comes to worse, I might need to track down the actuator rod as well.
Well, it's fixed now.
It took 2 hours after getting the parts kit, with the ignition rack thing, another gear (which doesn't fit for some reason so I kept the GM gear since it was still good), a spring for the lock pin, and a screw for the spring, to get everything done. I forgot just how far down I had to tear the column down to get that stinking rack out, and going down that far is no fun because the cage on the upper bearing leaks out the individual bearings
. The factory rack was bent, and that was allowing the ignition rod to slip out of place (killing START).
I guess tomorrow I get to see if the VATS actually works. Still need to get another starter solenoid, I think, unless I somehow find the nuts for the connections that seem to have gone AWOL (even though I'm 100% sure I put them on the studs after taking the wires off of the starter!).
It took 2 hours after getting the parts kit, with the ignition rack thing, another gear (which doesn't fit for some reason so I kept the GM gear since it was still good), a spring for the lock pin, and a screw for the spring, to get everything done. I forgot just how far down I had to tear the column down to get that stinking rack out, and going down that far is no fun because the cage on the upper bearing leaks out the individual bearings
. The factory rack was bent, and that was allowing the ignition rod to slip out of place (killing START).I guess tomorrow I get to see if the VATS actually works. Still need to get another starter solenoid, I think, unless I somehow find the nuts for the connections that seem to have gone AWOL (even though I'm 100% sure I put them on the studs after taking the wires off of the starter!).
Bump!
Have to bring this back... Got the VATS sorted out. Replaced the starter solenoid. Found out I indeed need to replace the ignition switch. It's going into the START position but I'm getting nothing on the yellow START wire coming out of the switch (and everything else works). The one thing I don't have hooked up to the switch yet is the parking brake lever (stupid BRAKE light keeps coming on in the cluster when I hit the START position) because I haven't hooked up the parking brake switch wire AND the stupid switch broke ( ) . And yes, I have checked the wire running between the ignition switch and the VATS relay. I even checked for voltage straight out of the switch, on the terminal in the connector, and I have NO POWER coming out of the switch. Everything, and I do mean EVERYTHING, else works. I have power in the engine compartment at the alternator, fuel injectors, and the ignition coil pack (don't care about emissions crap as it's not hooked up), I have power at the radio harness (no radio at the moment because I haven't installed the speaker harness yet), I have working HVAC blower fan, I have all the dash indicators, turn signals, hazards, and reverse lights working, but I don't have power on the yellow wire.
Anyways, I need to know one thing...
What exactly are the differences between the tilt and non-tilt switches? Seems to me both are actuated by similar means... I can get a non-tilt switch on eBay a lot cheaper than a tilt switch.
Have to bring this back... Got the VATS sorted out. Replaced the starter solenoid. Found out I indeed need to replace the ignition switch. It's going into the START position but I'm getting nothing on the yellow START wire coming out of the switch (and everything else works). The one thing I don't have hooked up to the switch yet is the parking brake lever (stupid BRAKE light keeps coming on in the cluster when I hit the START position) because I haven't hooked up the parking brake switch wire AND the stupid switch broke (
) . And yes, I have checked the wire running between the ignition switch and the VATS relay. I even checked for voltage straight out of the switch, on the terminal in the connector, and I have NO POWER coming out of the switch. Everything, and I do mean EVERYTHING, else works. I have power in the engine compartment at the alternator, fuel injectors, and the ignition coil pack (don't care about emissions crap as it's not hooked up), I have power at the radio harness (no radio at the moment because I haven't installed the speaker harness yet), I have working HVAC blower fan, I have all the dash indicators, turn signals, hazards, and reverse lights working, but I don't have power on the yellow wire.Anyways, I need to know one thing...
What exactly are the differences between the tilt and non-tilt switches? Seems to me both are actuated by similar means... I can get a non-tilt switch on eBay a lot cheaper than a tilt switch.