Hey, I have an issue with my pull down motor. I just purchased my 91' firebird a couple months ago , and this is one of the minor issues she has.

The motor does not lower when I close the trunk. The latch seems to work fine, but only works with the key. When I push the trunk release button, I hear a rapid clicking noise, but nothing else happens.

Is this an electrical issue, or does this mean my motor is bad?

I'll remove the motor this weekend when I have time.

Thanks,
Frito

 

If the motor is clicking the switch is working. Motors crap out, it's just a matter of time. But have you checked the alignment of the latch and the motor? It might have things out of wack making it not want to release/pull down properly. Also check the plastic bushings on the motor track. Mine were basically bits and pieces and were causing problems similar to yours.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'll check the bushings when I pull off the motor.

 

I really need to get this issue resolved, it's all I can think about.

I removed the trunk latch and motor this weekend. Even with nothing to stop it from going down, the hatch still wouldn't go down anymore. Would this mean I need to realign my hatch, or should I replace the motor first? I reattached the latch, because I could not figure out what was wrong. Rain doesn't get in, but the hatch rattles when I drive.

I have attached some photos, to show how much it sticks up and out.
the Driver's side seems to stick up and out a bit farther.

 

The hatch needs to be aligned.

 

I might try to align it tomorrow.

I just took apart the whole thing. The motor seems to be good(saw it spin), and the bushings are good. The Gear Nut that attaches to the motor looked like it might be stripped. I found that TDS sells them for $8, so I might order one. I'll take a better look at it tomorrow when I take it back off.

 

The pictures were with the motor removed correct? Then yes the hatch is out of alignment. I wish I could tell you how to do that but im guessing it cant be that difficult to adjust the hinges. Cant make it too much worse

 

The pictures were with the hatch latched, and nothing removed. How much does the hatch stick up and out before the motor engages? I don't want to over align it.

 

It's not even close. No wonder the gears stripped trying to pull the hatch into position. The gap around the hatch should be even and it should sit flush with the fender and the back end of the car. The motor should only need to pull it down the last 1/2 inch or so but the hatch has to be all square. It looks like the left hand hinge is loose. It's certainly way out of position.

 

Being the dummy I am, I accidentally broke the end off of one of the lift supports where it attaches to the car. Now I have to go spend money I don't really have. I know I should probably replace both at the same time, but I really can't afford to spend $70+ right now.

Update: Ok, so I tried to realign the hatch, It seems to line up pretty close if I push it from the back, but as soon as I let go, it pushes back to where it was.
I guess I'll have to wait a couple days till I can get my brother to help hold it, while I tighten it back down. I'll also need him to hold up the hatch while I install the new lift support, and reattach the other. I guess there's nothing else I can really do at the moment.

 

You're probably better taking of both supports than having different strength ones otherwise the hatch will get pushed unevenly. Just get a stick to hold it up until you get new struts. I've seen many hatches held up by assorted poles.

 

I guess I'll take your advice and wait till Monday when the store gets another.
I just hate to spend the $75 when earlier today, both were perfect. I guess my headlight control module, and AC retrofit will have to wait a bit till I have more money.

 

Before you spend money on the head light control module make sure you check the wiring. Especially grounds. It took a while but I found a ground connection up under the panel in front of the battery. Once cleaned and reconnected my lights popped up and down (still needed the 'buttons' replaced) and my interior light suddenly worked. What are doing with a/c?

 

I'll check the wiring , The PO told me it needed the control module, so I assumed he had removed it.

For the A/C I am still trying to decide what to do. It looks to have the original R12 sticker so I'm assuming it hasn't been retrofitted yet. I have read many threads on here about what to do, and I still don't know what I should do.

The A/C works fine, but isn't cold. I usually drive with the windows down, and A/C on max. The air it blows is still better than Hot air, so I always use it.
I'm thinking of converting to r134a, but having read so many mixed reviews I am still iffy about it.

UPDATE: You Sir Are AMAZING. I had been thinking the control module was under the dash, because that's what the PO told me. I popped the hood, and located the module. One of the wires to it was unplugged! I plugged it in, and BAM the passenger side headlight went up. I lowered it, then jiggled the ground wires by the other light. I hit the switch, and BAM! Functional headlights.

Now I guess I will try to get my third brake light to work. That's the last electrical issue I have(aside from my FM antenna not working).

 

Congratulations. These cars are old now and need tlc and usually some renovation.

 

Ok I temporarily fixed the third brake light. The shiny thing the bulb goes in was broken into 4 pieces. I taped it together and put the light back together. It works, but I'm sure a big bump will dislodge the bulb again.

 

Ok, here is an update.
I replaced the gear nut and aligned the hatch some. Now It will lower and raise when I hold down the button.

It does not release unless I turn the key at the back. The motor only runs while I'm holding the button down. I have to release the button right after the reversing switch flips, so it doesn't go back the other way
I'm think something must be missing.
Any help is much appreciated! Thanks.

 

You've got some wires crossed somewhere. Did it have a release button originally and has any of the wiring be redone? Find the wire that comes from the release switch and make sure it is connected to the solenoid only and not to the motor. And make sure the motor is connected to the always on wire.

 

It has the release button on the dash, I think it's original. I'll take a look tomorrow when it's light.