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Intermittent starting issue. 89 Iroc 5.7 700r4.

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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 09:16 PM
  #1  
Shifty421's Avatar
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Joined: May 2014
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From: jacksonville florida
Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 litre TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Intermittent starting issue. 89 Iroc 5.7 700r4.

So, I've been chasing this problem for about 4 years. Every once in a while I "fix it" and get a few months of run everyday out of her. I've traced the starting circuit and I get 12 volts to the S terminal on the starter every key turn. I've jumped the starter solenoid, and it spins. But when I hit the key, nothing. I get a voltage drop, accessories turn off, but nothing else. No starter engagement of any kind. And no noise from the relay bank(normally hear them when it cranks). As I said 12v to S terminal, starter bench tested fine. When I replaced the purple wire today, I noticed that the S terminal was loose, so I tightened it and went about my business.I get continuity from S terminal to ground while not cranking. Any ideas?
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #2  
NINÅ's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
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From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Car Is Not Cranky . . . . SO I AM !!!!!!

Use a spare headlight (because it puts a load on the circuit) and connect it across the M terminal of the starter and ground.

Then connect a voltmeter across the M terminal and ground.

Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.

Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.

On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.

The voltage will tell you what the problem is and what direction to turn.

If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.

If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.

Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.


Happy Racing !



When you see fog or “running” lights on in good weather beware. WLow performance driver ahead.

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Old Jun 26, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #3  
Shifty421's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: jacksonville florida
Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 litre TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Car Is Not Cranky . . . . SO I AM !!!!!!

I checked the voltage across the terminals and i had 12 at the starter on the signal wire. So i removed the starter and had it tested and replaced, I bought a new starter and i have the same voltage so i am taking back to have it bench tested and see if i got a bad one out of the box from the manufacturer. Thanks for the voltage advice.

Originally Posted by NINÅ
Use a spare headlight (because it puts a load on the circuit) and connect it across the M terminal of the starter and ground.


Then connect a voltmeter across the M terminal and ground.

Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.

Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.

On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.

The voltage will tell you what the problem is and what direction to turn.

If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.

If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.

Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.


Happy Racing !

When you see fog or “running” lights on in good weather beware. WLow performance driver ahead.
Reply
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