Eagle223usa

My car will not start, began with a vats problem, finally got that sorted out now I don't have power to the fuel pump relay. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

The wiring diagrams hosted at AustinThirdgen show that the fuel pump relay receives the power that is switched to the pump from the body mounted fuse #2 , which will be one of the two fuses up near either the battery or the charcoal can . The power that actually energizes the relay's coil comes from the ECM on pin A1/C1 . Which power source (because there are two) were you referring to ? If no power on the dark green/white wire (relay's coil) then it's likely an ECM problem . If no power on the large orange wire (power for relay's switched contact) then it's likely body mounted fuse #2 problem .

PS , don't forget that one of the two body mounted fuses also supplies the ECM with some of it's power as well ....

Eagle223usa

Thanks,OB, I found a fuse that was up by the battery and it was good. I didn't check it for power though. I will check out AustinThirdgen and see if I can find anything new to check.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

This is from an 88,... but it *might* help !!!

Eagle223usa

Thanks John. It appears I have no signal at the C16 pin on the ECM.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Ok , so , no +12Vvolts on pin C16 ?

Well , as you see in John's diagram , Pin C16 is fed power from the same fuse I mentioned earlier , Body mounted fuse #2 . It is supposed to be +12Volts on the orange wires , one of which feeds the switched contact in your fuel pump relay .

Eagle223usa

Thanks again, OB. I'll look for that little SOB. I may not get to work on it again until Saturday though. Thanks for all the advice.

Eagle223usa

The body fuse is good, I found it behind the passengers side headlight. I am now looking for fusible link "D". Anyone know where it hangs out?
Thanks.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

All fusible links are attached to the big lug on the starter as far as I know . And don't forget , an open fusible link can look all frazzled if the short circuit that took it out was a "hard" short (something in the + line going straight to ground) , BUT ! , it can also be open and look just like all the others (non melted insulation) if the failure was , for instance , mechanical vibration that caused it to flex a zillion times and then break the wire inside (while leaving the rubber insulation intact) .

Eagle223usa

Copy that. Can these just be tested for conductivity? And if I replace it what is it rated at? Thanks again.