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Old 04-15-2017, 03:05 PM   #1
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91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi everyone,

I'm a troubled owner of a 91 Camaro z28 it has the 5.7L V8 in it if that helps with figuring out the problem. The main issue I'm having is a crank no start.

It started about a year ago when the car would sometimes crank and no start but if I let it sit for about 15 min it would start right up and run perfect and sometimes keep starting up consistantly to the point where it would trick you into a false sense of security until eventually it would leave you stuck somewhere.

Here is a little more detail that might help. About 6 months ago I was driving down Route 6 in my town when it decided to stall, like I turned the key off (odd because it was the first time it did this, usually it just wouldn't start..) aaand surprise surprise.. it wouldn't start back up. Someone helped push me into a near by parking lot where it started right up! I drove about 100ft and it stalled (same deal.. like I turned the key off).. great so I sat there and waited for a tow truck. Once that arrived it started right up! WTH so he says I'll follow you back to your house just in case. So as I'm driving with the tow truck driver in tow there was a dip in the road that I drove over and the car almost stalled, it was basically like I flicked the key off and on real quick. I kept driving where about a 1/4 mile down the road it stalled for good and to this day won't start back up.

Here is things I noticed with the Camaro. Sometimes while trying to start the car the SECURITY light would be on (it would still turn over just wouldn't start..) So I made a new key, car still won't start but no SECURITY light anymore. It WILL run on starter fluid so I know ignition is working and the engine will run so at this point its looking like a fuel delivery problem. If I turn the key to ON I can hear the fuel pump prime.

Any help is much appreciated thank you for looking at my post!
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:01 AM   #2
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

I should also mention the fuel injectors were replaced last year and it did run night and day better. So I feel like it cant be my injectors..
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:03 AM   #3
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

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Originally Posted by SteamyShower View Post
Hi everyone,

I'm a troubled owner of a 91 Camaro z28 it has the 5.7L V8 in it if that helps with figuring out the problem. The main issue I'm having is a crank no start.

It started about a year ago when the car would sometimes crank and no start but if I let it sit for about 15 min it would start right up and run perfect and sometimes keep starting up consistantly to the point where it would trick you into a false sense of security until eventually it would leave you stuck somewhere.

Here is a little more detail that might help. About 6 months ago I was driving down Route 6 in my town when it decided to stall, like I turned the key off (odd because it was the first time it did this, usually it just wouldn't start..) aaand surprise surprise.. it wouldn't start back up. Someone helped push me into a near by parking lot where it started right up! I drove about 100ft and it stalled (same deal.. like I turned the key off).. great so I sat there and waited for a tow truck. Once that arrived it started right up! WTH so he says I'll follow you back to your house just in case. So as I'm driving with the tow truck driver in tow there was a dip in the road that I drove over and the car almost stalled, it was basically like I flicked the key off and on real quick. I kept driving where about a 1/4 mile down the road it stalled for good and to this day won't start back up.

Here is things I noticed with the Camaro. Sometimes while trying to start the car the SECURITY light would be on (it would still turn over just wouldn't start..) So I made a new key, car still won't start but no SECURITY light anymore. It WILL run on starter fluid so I know ignition is working and the engine will run so at this point its looking like a fuel delivery problem. If I turn the key to ON I can hear the fuel pump prime.

Any help is much appreciated thank you for looking at my post!
Hi ,

First , gotta ask , is the racetrack still operating at Seekonk ? I used to go there years ago to watch the races but haven't been there in over 25 years . The fourth of July was always the best day , Races , fireworks , and a huge demo derby .

So , the very first thing you need to do is a fuel pressure check . You say that at present it will not start at all , but will start with starting fluid and then die when the starting fluid has all been burned , yes ? If this is true then of course it sounds as if your ignition system is producing sparks which will 99% rule that out and so the fuel system is the next likely suspect . A fuel pressure check will tell you whether the pump you can hear running is actually supplying fuel . Many times the in tank fuel lines connected to the pump can slowly rot out over time and lead to a running pump but no real fuel pressure , this could be the case here . So what if the fuel pressure check is ok , and the rail is being properly pressurized , then what ? Next step there would be getting a "noid" light on the injectors and seeing if they are actually getting the spray signal from the ECM . If the noid light indicates no injector pulse you'll be looking at the ECM and all the things that could keep the ECM from pulsing the injectors . VATS is one thing that can inhibit the injectors and so too is the ignition system . When you start the engine , the ECM relies on the distributor reference pulses to know that the engine is actually turning and to spray fuel . There could be a defect in the ignition system (ICM) that although it still produces a spark , no reference pulse is being sent to the ECM .

If you start in with troubleshooting the above listed items hopefully you'll find the bad part and get it running . The great thing , if there ever could be said to be anything great about a car that won't run , is that the problem will be "punch in the face obvious" rather than some subtle thing that would be a real PIA to find .

Good luck and report back your results .
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Old 04-16-2017, 12:52 PM   #4
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi OrangeBird,

I greatly appreciate the reply and yes Seekonk Speedway is still open! I plan on going to watch an event soon with a buddy. it's always a good time there They are having events next month if you are interested, here is a link to the website: http://seekonkspeedway.com/

Yes the car only runs until there is no more Starter fluid to burn. Do you have any "farmers techniques" to test the pressure in the fuel rail? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. Actually, all I really have is basic hand tools lol. I am away at the moment but should be able to perform tests tomorrow and I'll let you know how I make out.

I was thinking it could be a bad ground or connection somewhere because when I hit that bump the car would shut right off. accessory wise everything would stay on just the engine would quit like I turned the key off (no studdering or anything like that, just like I shut the car off with the key). Plus wiring wise the car is kind of a nightmare, Wires everywhere some cut and some lead nowhere. The previous owner had a real field day. I took it to someone who fixed 3 short circuits in the wiring and neatened up everything. Sense there is spark I was thinking maybe there is a bad connection at the ECM somewhere or a bad ground and it is not allowing the signal to get to the injectors and that's why the engine would stop.. let me know what you think about my theory and I will still check out the fuel pressure if I can find a trick to do it.

Thanks again!

Last edited by SteamyShower; 04-16-2017 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:00 PM   #5
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi all,

Got my hands dirty today! Just to update my findings, I took OrangeBird's advice and got myself a noid light to test the injector pulse signal. There was no pulse! So at this point I know what my problem is now I just have to figure out what causes a no pulse situation. I pulled each injector and tested with the light and none of them worked. Curiously though I did notice the light pulse ONCE and it never did it again on the number 4 injector.. There's the intermittent no start situation that I used to encounter all the time.. I pulled the connectors off each fuel injector because if one or more of them are bad (incorrect ohm readout) the ECM wont pulse the injectors and there was still no pulse so we can rule out the fuel injectors as a problem. So now I do research and a lot of it. Now I basically know how the fuel injector system works.

So for those of you who don't know, the Engine Control Module (ECM) looks for a readout of 4PSI from the oil pressure sensor and a pulse signal from the Ignition Control Module (ICM) The pulse signal is generated by the Pickup Coil and forwarded to the ECM by the ICM. If it doesn't see either or both of those, you guessed it, the ECM wont pulse the injectors. I also read that ICM's don't like to be hot and that engine (unfortunatly) overheated a lot last year due to a faulty wiring harness going to the cooling fan. that has sense been fixed but there is strike one. So I turned my attention to the ICM and removed it from the dizzy (distributor) and found out that there is no cooling paste under the ICM where it should be (it uses the bottom of the dizzy housing as a heat sink) so that's strike two. then I removed the Pickup Coil plug from the ICM and its completely corroded. I had a buddy turn the engine over while I had a multi meter on the Pickup Coil connector and no voltage. AH HA! STRIKE THREE!

I understand that the ICM probably is OK in this instance and that its probably just the pickup coil that needs to be replaced but I ordered a new ICM and Pickup coil for it that should be in soon and figured why not.. I have the distributor out anyways might as well replace it, new parts won't hurt anything. Also the corrosion on the Pickup Coil connector looked prety severe som im guessing that's whats was responsible for my intermittent startups and random engine quits. Also something to note, after I took the distributor out and spun it by hand while my buddy kept the multi meter leads on the Pickup Coil Connector and it did crate a 1 volt signal but I had to spin it pretty quick so I'm sure it was messed up. the corrosion is what sells me on this more than anything.

I'll let you guys know how I make out!
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:32 PM   #6
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hey SS ,

Sounds like ya got this tiger by the tail and I only want to offer a couple of quick points ;

First , our ECM does not monitor the oil pressure per se , it monitors whether the fuel pump is running (getting power) from either the oil pressure switch or the relay , note the grey wire leading from that circuit to the ECM via connection E13 C3. The only two functions of the oil pressure switch/sender unit is to run the fuel pump and to run the gauge . The oil pressure switch is actually in parallel with the contacts of the fuel pump relay such that either or , the relay or the switch , can supply power to the pump . I'll enclose a wiring diagram so you can see that .

Second , you really need to one by each unplug the injectors to check their Ohm reading to make sure that it's in spec (I don't recall what Ohms a good injector should read but a quick search should turn that up) . Now that the noid light has told you there is no injector pulse a Ohm check of all 8 injectors will assure whether any are shorted (low resistance) and dragging the rest of the injectors on it's side down with it . Since you've discovered a whole lot wrong with the distributor that of course will be the first thing to rectify , buy a decent rebuilt or new unit and drop it in to hopefully cure the problem . If putting distributor back in good working order don't get it running there will be other ECM checks to follow but at least for now you've got something to work on with the ugly distributor and hopefully that will fix it .

Click twice on the diagram to see it in detail . Notice the parallel connection of the fuel pump relay's switched contacts and the oil pressure switch .
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Last edited by OrangeBird; 04-17-2017 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:22 PM   #7
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi OrangeBird,

Thanks for the helpful input and schematic! I'm actually happier to know that our ECM doesn't look for the oil pressure, one more thing to rule out. My new parts will be coming in on Saturday, I'll keep you posted on what happens then!

EDIT: Also I checked all the injectors and they are each at 16.0, perfect! Also phew! It would have been a real bummer if it was a dead injector sense they are only a year old.

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Old 04-21-2017, 12:19 PM   #8
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

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Originally Posted by SteamyShower View Post
Hi OrangeBird,

Thanks for the helpful input and schematic! I'm actually happier to know that our ECM doesn't look for the oil pressure, one more thing to rule out. My new parts will be coming in on Saturday, I'll keep you posted on what happens then!

EDIT: Also I checked all the injectors and they are each at 16.0, perfect! Also phew! It would have been a real bummer if it was a dead injector sense they are only a year old.

I'm happy to help and if you ever need any other schematics for your car the site AustinThirgGen.org is where I got that schematic for you and they have all the 1982/1992 model year's schematics hosted there . I hope your new distributor does get it going and yes indeed , as soon as I saw you post it the number 16 jogged my ol memory and that is the perfect Ohm reading for our injectors .

Kinda rainy crappy day here today , I hope tomorrow (saturday) is better weather for you or I hope you got a garage to work in ...

Last edited by OrangeBird; 04-21-2017 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:58 PM   #9
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Oh yea , I almost forgot ;

Whatever you do , DO NOT use the little tube of slime that comes with a new ICM , and if you've bought a new or remanufactured distributor , don't leave the slime they used under the ICM , clean it out of there with alcohol on some paper towels and make sure you get it ALL off of there . Then , get to either a RadioShack , a computer parts supply store , or an electronics supply store (Like "You Do It Electronics" in Needham Ma. right off of Rt. 95) and get some good quality (read kinda expensive for what it is , but worth every penny) "Thermal Compound" , sometimes called "thermal paste" , "heat sink compound" , or a couple other names . Thing is , the stuff the ICM manufacturers supply is garbage and will let the ICM last about the life of the warranty in most cases . The good thermal compound , like the stuff serious computer builders use on their processor/heatsink will be like $15 for a tiny tube of the stuff , which is plenty enough for at least two if not three ICM installations . I have had/seen plenty of ICM failures with the ICM manufacturer's supplied snot , but not once ever have I had an ICM fail that I used the good thermal paste on . Sure , if you drop a new distributor in it will run , but the ICM will live a LOT longer , trust me on this , with the better thermal paste .

Don't ya just love it when guys on the net add more to your workload for getting it running ?
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:39 PM   #10
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hahaha! Thank you for the input! I'm glad you mentioned that. I'm computer builder myself and am using a computer I built from scratch to type this lol I got the parts in today and used the thermal paste I use on my computers on the ICM buuuut after I installed everything into the car (yeah I was working outside lol the motivation behind the possibility of seeing it run for the first time in 6 months was too great for me to not to haha) It will still only run on starter fluid and not gas because the injectors still aren't firing :/ Man I was really hoping that I would be posting some good news on this dreary day..

So to some this up, New pickup coil, new ICM still fires up with only starter fluid. I know the fuse is good for the injectors because i'm getting 12v on both sides of the injector plug.. hmm not sure what to try but I have a multi meter ready if I need to start following wires.

Do you know where the ECM grounds the injectors? I want to check it and make sure its not corroded or loose.

Last edited by SteamyShower; 04-21-2017 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:30 PM   #11
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

I did more poking around with wiring. verified that I am getting the signal from the ICM to the connector on the ECM through the D8 pin (Wohoo!)

Quick question though.. What is the pin for the VATS module that sends the 2.5v to the ECM? I can't find it. I looked around and someone said b6 and another site said f10.. I checked both and wasn't getting a signal out of either.. is it AC or DC?

EDIT: Just checked VDC and with the key in the on position I was getting 2.8VDC out of the F10 pin..

EDIT 2: Just checked all ECM Grounds,
A12: Good 0 OHMS
D1: Good 0 OHMS
D6: Good 0 OHMS

All is good in ground land!

On another note I remember seeing A video where they turned the key to the on position and the SECURITY light came on for a few seconds and went away. Then I saw someone in another thread mention that this was normal VATS behavior indicating that it is functioning properly.. Mine is either on and stays on when I turn the key to on or it doesn't come on at all (wow lots of ons there!) That coupled with the fact that the vats line to the ECM is getting 2.8VDC in stead of 2.5 and a previous mechanic telling me that they had to bypass VATS makes me think that they didn't bypass it properly or they did and VATS is just broken now... What do you think OrangeBird?

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Old 04-22-2017, 11:28 AM   #12
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi SS ,

Yes indeed the vats signal needs to be seen by the ECM on pin F10 . Thing is , the signal isn't just a simple DC "present or not present" signal , it's an AC signal with a specific frequency that I can't recall at the moment but something around 30 to 50 cycles per second sounds familiar . Now when folks talk of "bypassing VATS" there are three different variations of how they bypass it . Version 1 is where they measure the original key's resistance and solder in a resistor to make the original VATS module think it's seeing it's proper key . This is done when the malfunction is in the key cylinder that the contacts don't make good contact with the key , for ex. Version 2 is when an inexpensive circuit is bought off of Ebay that produces the proper VATS signal for the ECM to enable the injectors , this is done when even with the version 1 delete the original VATS module still won't send the proper signal , meaning the original VATS module has gone defective . The replacement module , which as I remember it is under $50 , will send the proper VATS enable signal to the ECM whenever the key is on and does not interface with your original key's resistor pellet , so although the antitheft feature is lost at least it'll still run . And the third and last type of VATS delete is when you have a gent such as the member here "Tuned Performance" burn you an ECM chip with VATS disabled . Using such a chip requires none of the original VATS circuitry to be functional or any aftermarket signal replacer box because at that point the ECM is no longer looking for a VATS signal , It'll just spray the injectors whenever it sees the distributor reference pulse telling it the engine is turning .

Now , with all that said , VATS actually disables two functions , the spraying of the injectors and the cranking of the starter . Since your starter cranks with a defective* VATS we can safely assume that the VATS starter relay has already been jumped out and maybe that's the mechanic's reason for saying VATS has been bypassed . As in , he jumped the relay and it ran , so he thought that was a proper VATS bypass (it isn't) but in reality he only bypassed one of the two things VATS kills . Of note here is the fact that with only the #1 bypass listed above will the VATS starter relay function properly because the original VATS module will still be there enabling both the relay and the ECM's spray signal . But when you get to the #2 or #3 bypass , where the original VATS module is no longer functional , then of course the VATS starter kill relay will have to be jumped because there will be no original VATS module allowing the relay to operate .

* I checked my security light and yes indeed when the key is put to on , but haven't yet started the engine , the light goes on for like two seconds and then goes out . If your light is either on all the time or off all the time that is a definite indication of VATS trouble .

PS , did you know there is actually a separate little PIA fusebox that a lot of folks don't know about ? It's jokingly called the "convenience center" because of how darned INconvenient it is to get to , and of course there is a 10 amp VATS fuse there . Before any VATS bypass is considered , please check this VATS fuse and let's pray we get lucky here .

I will enclose a photo of this hidden fusebox which is under the dashboard on the driver's side , just to the right of the steering column .
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:15 PM   #13
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi OrangeBird!

I didn't find the Convenience Center Fusebox (love that BTW) but noticed my vats fuse is located on the left side of the steering wheel with the other fuses. I checked it visually and it looks OK as well as my multi meter giving me the OK. Whats the next thing you would check? I'm gonna charge the battery as much as I can on it and see if that will help. I know that if it doesn't spin the engine to around 400RPM while cranking I guess the ECM wont fire the injectors.

As always I appreciate all the help you've given me so far and I feel like we're real close!
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:51 PM   #14
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Ok so there is one of the many changes between 1989(my car) and 1991 is that the VATS fuse is back in the "real" fusebox where it belongs , cool . With that fuse good , and the improper functioning of your security light , we are left with the thought that your VATS module is indeed dead and we now have to do either VATS delete #2 or #3 to get the ECM to spray the injectors . If you search out "VATS delete" on Ebay you will find the device I mentioned and it's only a few wires that need to be hooked up to get the ECM to spray the injectors . Of course , since your into computers and know your way around replacing computer chips , you could get an ECM chip programmed with VATS deleted and install that , and it will run that way . I guess it's a personal choice ; buy the circuit to mimic VATS , or buy the chip with VATS programmed out , there is no real right or wrong and my inclination would be to buy a chip from Tuned Performance , drop it in (I'm just about 99% certain that on your computer it is "plug & play" with no soldering required , but double check just to be sure before you buy a chip) and that will be the end of it , the car should run .

Oh , and as long as the engine is cranking at anything close to normal cranking speed it should spray the injectors . You'd have to have it cranking painfully slow before that would become an issue . From our discussions I'm fairly well convinced that VATS is your car's problem and doing delete #2 or #3 will fix it .

PS , if you do decide on using the little circuit rather than the chip , when you hook the new VATS signal up to pin F10 , cut the wire and put your new signal to the F10 wire without the wire leading from the original VATS being in the circuit , tape that one off and leave it unconnected .
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:48 PM   #15
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

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Old 04-22-2017, 02:24 PM   #16
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Cool!

Yeah I did a couple more tests to narrow it down, I removed the fuse for vats and turned the key to start and it still cranks so the starter was definitely bypassed also I know the ECM is getting the pulse reading because on the dash its showing the engine rpm in real time and around 500 rpm cranking so yeah it seems all signs point to vats being in fact dead.
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Old 04-22-2017, 02:30 PM   #17
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Tuned Performance,

Awesome! I just purchased it! Ill let you guys know how I make out when it comes in and I install it.
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:38 PM   #18
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

I hope it works out for you.
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Old 04-22-2017, 09:41 PM   #19
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Thanks man!
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Old 04-23-2017, 12:09 AM   #20
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Does anyone know where the VATS module is located? I figured I will remove the module sense its broken, open the case, remove the board and remove the board from its com port. Once I get the new module, I will put the new little bypass module into the Vats module casing and attach the bypass module wires to the corresponding pin outs on the inside of the connector (where the Board would be soldered to the connector). This way I wont be cutting and splicing wires. after all is said and done, the bypass module will be in the VATS module case and i'll be able to plug it in to the factory VATS wiring harness.

This way in case I feel like restoring this part of the car, the harness wont be hacked up. also the bypass module will use the VATS 10 amp fuse so if I want to be safe like if i'm in a bad area, I can just remove the fuse and it will act the same as if VATS was in Tamper Mode. also Its fused! So if for whatever reason the little bypass module decides to pull more than 10 amps I'll be protected from my car burning to the ground. Sounds like a good idea to me!

I think its the little black box next to my ECM but i'm not sure. Ill have to look tomorrow morning. I'll post a pic for verification. If this isn't correct, would someone post a picture of the VATS module and its location?

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Old 04-23-2017, 08:43 AM   #21
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Its behind the dash mounted to the firewall on my car. PITA to get to.
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:57 AM   #22
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Wow , nice progress from yesterday ! I see you have bought the replacement VATS circuit and that should put your car back in running order . I am amazed it's only $20 delivered , for that price I'm thinking of buying one just to have in the spare parts bin "just in case" .

Now , if they haven't moved your VATS module from where it is on my 89 , you aren't gonna want to try to access it . The black box near your ECM is your cruise control module , and the VATS module is buried SO deep into the dashboard that you will need to disassemble the entire dashboard to get to it ! It was said in one thread here or another that the reason they buried it so deep was to attempt to prevent tampering with it by would be car thieves . Whether that's true or not , that it was purposefully made difficult to access as a further anti theft measure , I can assure you that if your's is where mine is , forget about it , disconnect it's wire going to F10 and put your new signal to F10 without trying to go in there after the original module .

Here is a pic of when I replaced the wiring harness in my dash some years ago . I'm pretty sure the grey box you see in the middle is the VATS . This was of course behind all the heat/AC ductwork and as you can see when the whole rest of the dash is in place it's gonna be very much work for very little gain to attempt to get to the original VATS module .Maybe someday if some other pressing concern forces you to go into it that deep , then you could do your idea of putting the replacement board into the old VATS enclosure , but till then I'd just wire it in where it's most convenient , and enjoy driving your car .
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:44 AM   #23
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

hmmm yeah I guess I could just remove the f10 pin from the connector and put the wire in there for the ECM, that way Im not cutting wires. I'll tap into the power wire for the ECM and Ill ground it to a bolt under the dash somewhere that would be suitable.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:00 AM   #24
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Power from a6
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:53 AM   #25
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Thank you Tuned Performance

Also I forgot to post pictures of that pickup coil. It was looking like it was time to stick a fork in it and call it done
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:12 PM   #26
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

Hi everyone!

So I went to check my mail and saw that my package came 2 days early! SO I took my package and installed it and she started right up! little hick upy, the car is burning out the old gas and plus the ECM has to relearn every thing lol but after driving it to the gas station and back it was fine! we are back in business!!

Thank you OrangeBird for giving me tips and pointers on where to look next and thank you Tuned Performance for the link to the HZ module!

PS: For reference, our VATS (91 Camaro anyway) sends the 30hz signal.

PPS: Honesty OrangeBird.. Want me to buy you a beer? Tickets to Seekonk Speedway? Let me know what I an do to repay you!


Last edited by SteamyShower; 04-26-2017 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:38 AM   #27
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

That is GREAT news !!!!!

I am very happy to have been able to help you , yea sure I provided the small details of the way it works but it was you who had enough skills to take my info and make it work , Kudos to you for sure . Maybe someday we'll meet up , the "NECF" (New England Camaro Firebird) club does a fall ride that I've been meaning to get to for the past couple of years and maybe this year will be the year I finally do go (Wanna bet I'll be the only one in a "safety cone orange" bird ?) . If your interested in the NECF scroll down to the regional subforums here and look up the member "Brother Al" , he seems to be the contact for the group and although small it's a great welcoming group of third gen owners .

PS , you've now officially earned one of these ;
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Old 04-27-2017, 01:30 PM   #28
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Car: 91 Camaro Z28
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Re: 91 Camaro Crank, No Start

I'll have to look into it! Unfortunately new problems have arisen that I might have to make a new post about (can't seem to find an existing one that seems to pertain to my exact issues) and that's the cooling part of the spectrum. I thought I had that fixed but I guess it seemed fixed because it was getting cooler out before it broke last year lol I definitely want to get that sorted out before I go to any events. Its funny, this is the first full day i've had it running and someone pulls up in a fourth gen camaro and asks me if I want to sell it haha. Can't say I have any future plans of selling it.
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