jharrison5

I have been searching and looking at wiring schematics and need to double check some stuff to make sure I'm going at this the right way...

Working on an '87 iroc with a 5 speed and tpi from the factory.

Ditched the factory harness after it was ravaged by mice and am now using a Fast ez-efi 2.0 self tuning system. I still have the factory harness though and the majority of the connectors, but the ecu and harness have been removed from the car. All the rest of the wiring other then the ez-efi harness is still factory.

This is what I'm pretty sure about. From the tank there are 3 wires that come into the car. Black, pink, and tan. Black is the ground and terminates just inside the car. The pink wire is for the fuel gauge and tan wire is power for the pump. Both wires run along the driver's side and up into the dash where they go into various places like the the fuse panel and other hard to route bundles. It looks like the tan wire finally ends up exiting the car on the passenger side via one of the plugs for the main harness.

Here is where I need the advise. Since the new fast ecu is running the show, and i wont have the oil pressure switch, do I just hook the tan wire into the new relay to make it all work?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I believe that the fuel pump in stock form uses a relay then a fuse and then the pump. Whatever the amperage of the stock fuse I would do that inline again. I think the idea is if the pump was going bad it would pop the fuse instead of really heating up or heating the power wire up.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Here's what I did for my Holley EFI / Pump wiring. Mine is an 89, and my wiring is intact, so I'm not sure if this applies but if it helps great. If not, no worries.

I'm also running a Racetronix hotwire kit. If you haven't looked into it, I suggest it for upgraded/consistant voltage, plus, it eliminates the need for a relay AND fuse, since it's contained in the kit. -Obviously, the fuse, as stated, is a good idea, but I'm not sure if you still have it or have bypassed it.

My pump power wire was tan too. Shows gray in that diagram, but power is power. ...and obviously per the diagram it goes from relay to pump. I bypassed the relay completely, and my Holley pump activation runs directly to it. That tan wire now switches the racetronix relay, and all is well. It's fused too of course. For me, it was a way to upgrade the wiring, AND....not have to worry about an old relay and an old fuse. Plus it made underhood wiring very easy to sort out. At the tank, the kit is plug and play using the factory male/femal connector. The kit just plugs into each of those connectors, then you just add power directly up front at the alternator. That's it. Instead of the stock ECM switching the (now redundant) relay and sending power via the tan wire, I just sent a signal via Holley ECU, straight to the tan wire and back to the tank connector where it meets the racetronix relay.

jharrison5

After going through the schematics yet again while routing the Fast harness, i found out that it has a fused relay built into it for the fuel pump already. Now I just need to figure out which "tan" wire is the correct one for the fuel pump...

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Just buy a T-tap and tap in a power line and see if that wire turns the pump on or use a razor blade to remove the smallest portion of wire insulation and touch a power wire to it. In both cases just wrap it a time or two with electrical tape.