GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the middle of rewiring the car for an LS1 swap. I've decided to go ahead and not just do a 'stand alone' harness, but to incorporate everything possible as it should be.

Battery is on the passenger side, and planning on a (LT1 maybe) relay/fuse box on the drivers fenderwell. This really isn't negotiable.

This thread mentions using breakers instead of fusible links.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ml#post5861717

Since I'm rewiring most of the car anways, here's what I was thinking. Instead of using the starter as a junction block to just use one by the battery (I think some thirdgens have one here stock).

Battery cables
http://www.fototime.com/BB636CA6A645628/standard.jpg

Cable runs from the battery to the starter. The smaller wire runs from the battery to the breaker mounted on the side of the radiator support.

Breaker
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4888...eset-1-4-Stud/

Run wire from breaker across/behind radiator support to junction block by fuse/relay box.

Junction Block
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/93-9...-reproduction/

Junction block would serve to feed power to fuse/relay box, headlight relays, fan relays, car interior, blower etc and for the alternator to feed to.

What size breaker would be a good idea? I know it depends on the size of wire, but since that's not purchased yet... 60amp be enough? I figure it should be big enough to run lights and radio with the car off and handle however many amps the alternator charges the battery at as well as whatever everything else besides the starter draws during actual starting. I'm not running the starter power thru it. It's a streetcar, a/c, stock speakers, H4 lights.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The resetable breakers make me uneasy. I'm not an electrical engineer, but the way I thought those worked was thermally. Basically too much current causes the breaker to separate and break the connection. It then has to cool down before it can be reset. Until it has cooled completely it is easier to trip. I bought two of these when I relocated my battery to the trunk and experienced those symptoms. Exactly what you show but a different brand. The breaker would trip and I would have to allow it to cool down before I could reset it, usually 30 seconds -1 minute. But even then it would pop more easily. I switched to the ANL style fuses after a week of that. I would stick fuses if I were you. I would only use these breakers for a secondary battery.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Appreciate the input. I was thinking of this style breaker since the car may sit for a while at a time (winter etc) and it would be easy to quickly kill most of the circuits. I always flip my master switch off in the racecar between events. One fellow driver's car 'spontaneously combusted' taking out his detached garage with it.

I'm new to the ANL MIDI MEGA fuses, basically anything bigger than a Maxi fuse, but I'll start looking in that direction, thanks. That said, any idea what amperage you used?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The amperage for a battery relocation is so varied that it really is user determined. It is based on the starter (Is the starter new or old, hot or cold, mini or full size), compression and timing. I've heard from powermaster that most of the mini starters require 80-90 amps to turn over a typical V8 but once everything starts absorbing heat that number can jump to 200 and beyond. I went with a 250 and so far (fingers crossed) I'm ok. I bought 3 extra fuses to be safe. I do not want to be stranded at a gas station because a hot start blew my fuse.

LS2Swapped92

I'm a huge fan of circuit breakers. #1 reason not being stranded if something does occur

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Just as an update. What I said about the circuit breakers is true BUT one of my issues was that at the time I was using copper clad aluminum (CCA) wire for my main battery wire. I later switched to pure fine strand Copper. The CCA wire really does have a lot more added resistance vs pure copper for the length you would need for a trunk mounted battery. I have not actually measured it but the car has cranked so much faster and can crank longer without experiencing any noticeable battery drain. I have yet to pop my main fuse and I've done a lot of hot starts with longer starting times. For anybody reading this, stay away from copper clad aluminum wire!

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Good to know. My cables on the teal car are "made of Pure OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) and tinned for corrosion resistance" according to the website.

I ended up not using a circuit breaker and just have the main power cable straight to the battery unprotected and another wire from the battery to a fuse "module" Bussman 37701-1NN0022. I did have a close call one tonight tho. I have a 20amp fuse for the HVAC blower fan, and a 60amp that then goes to the junction block for everything else besides starter. Turned off the car after it idling for a bit, and then had no power to anything. Turns out, I had the 20amp and 60amp backwards. I'm guessing when I shut off the car, the alternator fed the battery more than 20amps and blew the fuse! Fortunately I didn't release the smoke from the alternator.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I actually found a few heavy duty relays (50 amps +) that I was going to use for switched power as a kind of distribution point for switched power, would something like that help you?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Thanks but no. Pretty happy with what I ended up with. I'm done (and tired) with most of my wiring. Just a few things on the interior like the A/C signal wire, some radio wires and power for the seats still left to do. I plan on coming back later to add the power windows/mirrors/locks with remote.

LS2Swapped92

There's nothing wrong with circuit breakers. If they are popping it's your fault for overloading the circuit.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

My problem, as I said, was the copper clad aluminum wire. In my case the amperages that the starter required wan't the issue, I proved that when I did nothing except switch to Pure Oxygen free fine strand copper of the same gauge and all of the sudden the starter turns faster and can turn longer without putting a strain on the battery. The resistance that the CCA wire caused was the issue. You need to read fully all the replies in a thread before making comments like that.

LS2Swapped92

Respectfully, I can comment as I please.

And the fact remains, you were overloading the circuit.
Not the fault of a circuit breaker.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I never blamed the circuit breaker. You really aren't reading what I posted, you're just commenting looking for an argument. I'm not going to continue this conversation with you.

LS2Swapped92

My intentions are to steer OP away from your bad advice and lack of understanding when it comes to electronics.

There's nothing wrong with circuit breakers. Like anything they need to sized correctly.

If I really wanted to argue with you, I could dismantle your whole claim that adding wire resistance increased the total circuit amperage. Basic ohms law tells us you're full of it.