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Re: Hello, questions about instrument panel circuit board
Yes , those will cause problems in the form of the connector not passing power to the circuit fed by the broken connections .
Now , with that said , it remains to be seen what the problems will be based on exactly which circuit is fed by the broken connection . It looks like the worst one feeds a socket that doesn't even have a bulb in it , if it's the red "brakes" light you may not even have noticed it's been out . But if the other one that looks bad is the gas gauge or something more important it's gonna suck to be missing the gas gauge just for an obviously messed up connection .
PS , the ARE ways to repair that , it ain't easy and ain't always successful , and is a repair best attempted by someone REAL familiar with repairing delicate electronics .
Re: Hello, questions about instrument panel circuit board
Originally Posted by Drew
This is one of the best reasons not to go tearing into the car unnecessarily. Sometimes just disassembly can cause damage like this.
Best fix is a salvaged cluster.
Well, it was the LED's and I wanted to fix the trip odometer.
It does seem of the broken connections is going to an unused light socket, and the other is headed up towards the turn signal.
The one going to the turn signal is the one thats only half sliced.
Will it still work in that condition or is there something I can do to make a full connection?
Last edited by Annihilate; 09-22-2017 at 02:36 PM.
You can solder a small jumper wire across the broken traces.
In some cases you can use solder alone to jump the broken connection.
By choosing the right tin/lead ratio you can get a good “plastic” range and the solder will be a goo at a certain temperature so you can manipulate it.
Don’t buy ROHS compliant solder.
There’s no lead in it making it an inferior, non-failsafe product.
09-22-2017, 01:52 AM
