My power door lock solenoids are in need of some attention. A while back you posted this link to a rebuild document. I have adobe and am still having problems with it loading. Has the location of this doc. changed? Thanks

http://www.homestead.juno.com/jlstre...indowmotor.pdf

 

finally finished retrofitting the 87' bird with power locks. have some points of intrest:

Actuators would only move the lock slider a little bit and then stop. When manually sliding the lock, i could feel that there was a lot of resistance. Fixed by rolling down the window on each door, and squirting white lithium grease on the inside of the latch mechanism and on the outside of door catch. Wish i would have thought of greasing the parts while I had the door panels off. But since i didn't fell like pulling them again, i improvised but ended up spending a little extra time with glass cleaner getting the grease off the door glass. I also lubricated the black plastic around the lock slider.

Drivers door lock actuator ceased to function a few days after installation. I had scraped the corrosion off the actuator electrical contacts but it reappeared rather quickly. This time i got the actuator from a new junkyard arrival with all it's doors, windows and weatherstripping still intact, not one that had been sitting without windows for a couple years in the wrecking yard. Interestingly, it was not just the contacts on the actuator that were corroded, but also the electrical contacts on the plug that attaches to the actuator.

When parts hunting, many of the salvage yard door lock switches were extremely worn. On most all thridgens the lettering on the drivers side lock switches was worn off. Some I could see the plastic on the switches was cracked. Others, had excessive electrical resistance in the switches, in many cases enough so that the relay coils would not engage.

In some cases, the rivets that hold the door lock actuators to the door sheetmetal were starting to break on salvage yard vehicles.