Has 30 mins of run time and 1.5 miles on it. I've included The Story at the bottom if it concerns you.

My machine shop balanced all of this together so I'm not going to separate it. It's worth more as a set and as pricy as balancing is for some people in the country I hope someone can put it to good use. It ran very nicely until I shut it off for the last time.

The goods:

Eagle Cast 2 pc RMS crankshaft

Forged Scat 5.7 inch rods (ARP Waveloc Rod bolts)

Speed Pro 4.060" coated skirt, hypereutectic pistons (I have one of the last sets made in Italy, they're all made in India now, FWIW)

Summit SFI Approved flexplate

Sealed Power Rings (Only 25 mins of runtime on the rings, they'll be included, up to the buyer if they want to use 'em!)







And again, it's all BALANCED and practically brand new. I doubt the rings even seated so you could probably even reuse those.

About the balance job. I made sure I went to a machine shop that didnt require the balancer and the flexplate, so it's neutral balanced. I'm including the flexplate, if you want the balancer I'll throw that in for a little bit extra, but you dont need it.


The Story:
It has about a mile and a half on it. I did cam break in, then the next week I got started tuning the car, drove it around the block, parked it. And then I went to get the thing in drivable condition (SEtting the TV cable and carb better) the next weekend and after getting it running, a lifter tap prompted me to pull the valve covers to reset valve lash on the noisy lifter and I found some milky oil. It seems to have been caused by a crack in the #6 cylinder.





It has 1.5 miles on it, and about 25 minutes of run time. No knocking of any sort. I'd reuse it but my next block is a 1 pc RMS block and since I need a conversion flywheel for a 2 pc RMS crank to mate with my T56 I think the writing is on the wall. It's a good reason to go to a 1 pc block, and when I first started piecing this together the T56 wasn't on the table. ALso, since the crank is balanced to these particular pieces, I think it should stay together as a set. The pistons are only slightly dirtied, I can probably get all of them looking new in a few minutes with as little run time as they have.

I changed the oil in it a few times (had to abort the first TWO attempts at break in) and it never had any water in it until this time. I think the crack didnt appear until I took it 'round the block, which means it had all of about 5 minutes run time if that with water in the oil, and it probably wasnt watery until the ned of the drive and I never was very hard on it since I was worried about the TV cable setting (didn't want to kill the tranny). So really it just has a few minutes of idling with the water in it.

Here's a vid of the car running about 5 minutes before I took it 'round the block and you may not be able ot tell, but the oil looked fine, and I would have noticed if it looked bad then.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=cjXKi8dNlHE

I'm adamant that my issues with the block haven't affected the bottom end at all, this should be a pretty nice setup for someone. I'd say it's good up to about 450-500 hp without too much trouble. I built it for a 300 rwhp street motor with potential room for cam upgrades. So it should be good for any hot hot street car. I was a bit concerned about how it would look as I tore it apart, but I've been pleasantly surprised to find that everything looks perfect as far as I can tell.

 

FIgured Id add some more pics:





Pictures of each rod journal:
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../Journal12.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../Journal34.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../Journal56.jpg
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../Journal78.jpg

And a brief video of me going over it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e2yP9UWRRk

I know someone can use this, it's about $700 worth of reusable parts alone (I ignored parts I would probably replace but that's up to the buyer) plus the money it cost to get it all balanced. It's good stuff.

 

A bump. FInally got time to pull it out of the block:

 

Still available.

The cam is an Comp Cams xe262, I've got all the lifters organized also.

I've also got an xe268 with about 15,000 miles on it, lifters all look pretty nice for it too, all organized. If anyone is interested in either of those I might consider letting them go.

Edit: Sorry Im not going to be able to let either of the cams go for a little while. If you're interested, let me know and I'll let you know what the deal is on them when I get to that point. No obligation, just one of those if you still want it type things.

 

well.. not to be a **** but anyone who knows really how to build engines..and things you do and dont do... one being you stand the pistons the way you have them in the pic..

your prolly not aware of this.. but doing that will push the skirts of the pistons out causein them to score the sidewalls of the bores..

so i pretty much hate to tell you this but the pistons are prolly shot... and are not fixable..



also... provided that the crank was stored the way in the pic.... standing up its ok.. but if it was laying down on the ground sideways.. (not in the block)... that 9/10 chances is bad as well..

not saying this to scare any buyers or **** you off.. im just looking out for the person who dosent know much about this stuff...

as well as you... depending how long the stuff was sitting. (30 min max)

it should be ok.. but anything over an hr or so.. the pistons and crank would warp..



hope its still good..

 

your prolly not aware of this.. but doing that will push the skirts of the pistons out causein them to score the sidewalls of the bores..

Are you kidding me!! The weight of the connection rod will damage(bend it)the skirt?
----------
Where is the BS flag when you need it.
----------
There is MAYBE 1# of pressure on the skirt stored like that.

 

Even aluminum in the O state (non-heat treated or hardened) will not wrap-distort with that small amount of pressure on it.

 

ask any professtionall engine builder..

.. its a huge mistake made by a **** load of people..

basically you need to look at it this way..

rod is heavy... (steel)

pison is aluminum (soft).. yet it is strong as well..

but when a piston is cold it shrinks... then when warms up it expands..

... say you had it out side and were working on it.. it was cool.. and then took inside to store... it comes up to room temp... it will expand..

any preasure what so ever even if its 1 pound... will cause it to distor and warp..

if your truley unaway of how vital that slight warpage is..

go get a ruller ... or for that matter get a "feeler guage".. and look how much .030... is..

thats how much your taking off one side of a bore in a motor.... to change it from a 350 to a 355... SMALL but HUGE AFFECTS... the slightes warpage in a piston could gouge the walls of the bore and destroy a block..

really its basic phisics..

when its cold.. it is smaller.. when its hot it is bigger ..

look at metal work... when you have thick steel you heat it up to bend it..

same principle.. (just smaller scale)

 

You start your engine up north and its real cold and then the engine gets real hot. Your theory doesn't hold water.

Read post #7

I'm an Aircraft structural mechanic and know about metals in the cold state and the hot state.

 

This is not the space shuttle!!

 

idc if you have anyting to do with space or aliens... facts are facts..

its happend... and will happen..

 

I'm not going to argue with you anymore. Not worth my time debting with a 21 YO that knows everything.

Your piston rod storage theory is pure BS.

Next time PM a guy with your comments or theories before hurting someones sale because you think you know it all.

 

ok.. walk away when you know you lost.. ha


your going to tell me that the guy i know WHO HAS BUILT MOTORS FOR 35 YEARS!!! doesnet know what he is talking about...

ha.

believe what you want...



=--- back to the original guy who posted this.. grab a micrometer and check it out and make sure they are not pushed out... if not.. your good.. ... if they are... there junk

 

Ok you won and I bow to you.

Now go pound your chest in victory.

 

*bang bang*

 

lopez, you are an idiot....and so is your engine builder. i stored my stuff the same way he has his stored for months while apart, i slapped it all back together, and my 305 is one of the fastest on the board, not to mention the wear on it looks GREAT. they make tray's specifically for storing pistons/rods the way he's got them. top fuel engines are in the "stored upright" state more often than not and they work great.

either way, the rotating assembly may be taken. ain't that right kyle?

 

Thx. mw66nova

 

I hope someone buys this from Kyle so he can buy more parts from me. LOL

 

one word... genius.

 

I appreciate your concern and all, but honestly man, these pistons see more stresses and forces on them than you or I could possibly imagine. I really, really doubt it matters. But you're right, if a rod leaning agianst the skirt is enough to deform it, they are clearly junk pistons.

I also have only stored the crank upright simply becuase of what I've heard about them deforming when stored horizontally. But I still think that's a bunch of nonsense hot rodder superstition also. Do people realize how much stress crankshafts endure inside the car? If supporting it's own weight is too much for it to handle, why in the world would we bother mounting pounds and pounds of forged steel to it and twirl it around it at 6,000 RPMs?

Again, I appreciate the concern, but I may know more about this stuff than you think I do. And to the rest of the guys who chimed in, thank you also!

From everything I've read and seen that IS the correct way to store pistons. I've thumbed through several of my reference materials and found at least a dozen pictures showing rods leaning against the piston skirts already. I even have a fantastic video that uses a 2 liter bottle tray just like I did and recommends that method of storing them.

I know you're looking out for people who may buy them, and I admire that, but I'm an honest guy and I treat these things like I'd want someone else to treat my stuff. They're bagged up, covered in a layer of oil, stored in an air-conditioned environment. I wouldn't sell them if I felt like they'd ruin someone's motor. I've been on the receiving end of junk parts before, I wouldn't do that to anyone.

Either way, if it bothers someone that much, the pistons have the weights marked on them and they can get a new set and match the weights. Problem solved.

Also, Matt, I'd love to work out a deal with ya, but I haven't heard from ya in a few days! Let me know man!


Edit:

Check these out. This is at a machine shop.

 

pwnd

 

Its not like he has put them in a furnace or oven and then put them in a freezer right away or visa-versa.

If your theory was correct every time and aircraft took off from Phoenix and it was 100F and goes to 35,000 ft at -35F+ and then landed back in Phoenix at 100F, the planes structure would have to be repaired every time it took off and landed.

Do you have any clue of what it takes to change metals molecular make up?

You spell like a 1st grader but you know all about metals molecular make up!!

11 spelling errors in what I quoted from you.

I would suggest suing the school that let you graduate or the state.

You are a true idiot!!

 

hehe, not only that, but he thinks that going .030" over to gain 5more cubes is gonna net him huge gains...my 305 is .030" over, i should be in the 10's, right lopez?

 

how much for xe262?

 

I sent you a pm, I'm having second thoughts about letting these go just yet. Sorry!

Thanks for hte interest, though!

 

HAHA!!!!