[CT] LS1 Driveshaft
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt / 3:45
LS1 Driveshaft
SOLD!!!!!!!!
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft for sale. Has new Spicer U-joints installed by a Professional Driveline shop and they computer balanced it.
The parts yard that I originally bought it from said it was pulled from a 2001 Trans Am. See attached photos
I have over $250 in this driveshaft, and it has less than 100 miles on it since the new u-joints and balancing.
Asking $140 or best offer , plus $25 shipping UPS.
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft for sale. Has new Spicer U-joints installed by a Professional Driveline shop and they computer balanced it.
The parts yard that I originally bought it from said it was pulled from a 2001 Trans Am. See attached photos
I have over $250 in this driveshaft, and it has less than 100 miles on it since the new u-joints and balancing.
Asking $140 or best offer , plus $25 shipping UPS.
Last edited by formula_pilot; Jul 17, 2009 at 05:38 PM. Reason: SOLD
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt / 3:45
Re: LS1 Driveshaft
Long story warning, but you asked:
My car had a vibration problem at highway speeds. This had occurred after having the car off the road for months while doing a major repair project. I knew it was a driveline issue, but more than one professional mechanic was unable to determine cause. I threw a lot of parts at the problem with no results.
The LS1 shaft was purchased because they have a reputation for having less vibration, in part because they are lighter and stiffer due to the larger diameter tube. The LS1 shaft seemed to change the vibration, but did not fix the problem.
I rebuilt the trans (T5) with a new output bushing and checked the mainshaft to see if it had been bent, but that was not the cause. I replaced the ring and pinion in the 9 bolt, but that did not help. I checked pinion angles and alignment of the trans to the rear. I became so frustrated that I started throwing parts at it, which is not the smart thing, but an act of desperation.
I decided to have the LS1 driveshaft balanced, in case it was out. The first shop that balanced it had bonded the weight on, (they did not have the capability to weld aluminum). The vibration was slightly better again, but still very present at highway speeds. After a few hundred miles, the weight flew off when I was on the highway. After getting a refund from the first shop, I sent the LS1 shaft to a driveline shop about 40 miles away that was experienced in doing aluminum shafts. They recommended installing new Spicer U-joints prior to balancing, so I agreed. The balance weight was also welded on this time, not glued. They reported that the computer balance was excellent, better than most shafts they see. I was really hopeful that the problem would be gone! The LS1 shaft was put back on the car, but the vibration was only slightly better, still unacceptable.
After some research, I began to think that the length of the driveshaft may be a factor in the vibration. Every car out of GM has manufacturing variations, and during the major repair work, the floor had been cut out and replaced due to years of T-Top leaks resulting in a Flintstone mobile. I speculated that the floor change had caused the trans mount to shift a little?
Because changing and balancing the driveshaft was the only thing that made any influence on the vibration, I spoke with the owner of Denny’s driveshaft, and was convinced to ordered custom steel racing driveshaft that was made the perfect length for my particular car.www.dennysdriveshaft.com. The LS1 shaft was removed after about a hundred miles since the new u-joints and balance, and I installed the Denny’s steel shaft. The vibration now had a different feel, but really not any better. At this point I had beaten the driveshaft issue to death and was certain that the driveshaft was not the root cause.
To shorten an even longer story: I used a dial indicator on the precision steel shaft to determine that the yoke in the 9 bolt was bent, causing the driveshaft to run-out and cause vibration. The yoke had been removed during the major repair project to fix a pinion seal leak, and it must have been bent when pulling it off-it did not come off easily during that job. I had to use a very strong puller to get it to budge off the splines. After I replaced the yoke in the 9-bolt, the vibration was fixed. Driveshaft length and balance had nothing to do with it. In hindsight, I should have known earlier that the LS1 shaft was good and something else in the driveline was the cause, but I was desperate and frustrated. However, buying the Denny’s steel shaft was money well spent, because it enabled me to get a good runout reading (0.020”) on the yoke for the 9-bolt.
Even though the LS1 shaft was on the car for about a month while I waited for the steel shaft from Denny’s, I did not drive the car much because the vibration annoyed me. My Firebird is a weekend toy, not a daily driver. I am estimating about 100 miles were put on the new u-joints prior to removal, maybe less.
This all happened two years ago. I bought a house and moving in a few weeks, and so am divesting of spare parts.
That is the story of why the LS1 shaft, with fresh u-joints and a balance, is for sale.
My car had a vibration problem at highway speeds. This had occurred after having the car off the road for months while doing a major repair project. I knew it was a driveline issue, but more than one professional mechanic was unable to determine cause. I threw a lot of parts at the problem with no results.
The LS1 shaft was purchased because they have a reputation for having less vibration, in part because they are lighter and stiffer due to the larger diameter tube. The LS1 shaft seemed to change the vibration, but did not fix the problem.
I rebuilt the trans (T5) with a new output bushing and checked the mainshaft to see if it had been bent, but that was not the cause. I replaced the ring and pinion in the 9 bolt, but that did not help. I checked pinion angles and alignment of the trans to the rear. I became so frustrated that I started throwing parts at it, which is not the smart thing, but an act of desperation.
I decided to have the LS1 driveshaft balanced, in case it was out. The first shop that balanced it had bonded the weight on, (they did not have the capability to weld aluminum). The vibration was slightly better again, but still very present at highway speeds. After a few hundred miles, the weight flew off when I was on the highway. After getting a refund from the first shop, I sent the LS1 shaft to a driveline shop about 40 miles away that was experienced in doing aluminum shafts. They recommended installing new Spicer U-joints prior to balancing, so I agreed. The balance weight was also welded on this time, not glued. They reported that the computer balance was excellent, better than most shafts they see. I was really hopeful that the problem would be gone! The LS1 shaft was put back on the car, but the vibration was only slightly better, still unacceptable.
After some research, I began to think that the length of the driveshaft may be a factor in the vibration. Every car out of GM has manufacturing variations, and during the major repair work, the floor had been cut out and replaced due to years of T-Top leaks resulting in a Flintstone mobile. I speculated that the floor change had caused the trans mount to shift a little?
Because changing and balancing the driveshaft was the only thing that made any influence on the vibration, I spoke with the owner of Denny’s driveshaft, and was convinced to ordered custom steel racing driveshaft that was made the perfect length for my particular car.www.dennysdriveshaft.com. The LS1 shaft was removed after about a hundred miles since the new u-joints and balance, and I installed the Denny’s steel shaft. The vibration now had a different feel, but really not any better. At this point I had beaten the driveshaft issue to death and was certain that the driveshaft was not the root cause.
To shorten an even longer story: I used a dial indicator on the precision steel shaft to determine that the yoke in the 9 bolt was bent, causing the driveshaft to run-out and cause vibration. The yoke had been removed during the major repair project to fix a pinion seal leak, and it must have been bent when pulling it off-it did not come off easily during that job. I had to use a very strong puller to get it to budge off the splines. After I replaced the yoke in the 9-bolt, the vibration was fixed. Driveshaft length and balance had nothing to do with it. In hindsight, I should have known earlier that the LS1 shaft was good and something else in the driveline was the cause, but I was desperate and frustrated. However, buying the Denny’s steel shaft was money well spent, because it enabled me to get a good runout reading (0.020”) on the yoke for the 9-bolt.
Even though the LS1 shaft was on the car for about a month while I waited for the steel shaft from Denny’s, I did not drive the car much because the vibration annoyed me. My Firebird is a weekend toy, not a daily driver. I am estimating about 100 miles were put on the new u-joints prior to removal, maybe less.
This all happened two years ago. I bought a house and moving in a few weeks, and so am divesting of spare parts.
That is the story of why the LS1 shaft, with fresh u-joints and a balance, is for sale.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 701
Likes: 2
From: Clinton, IA usa
Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 350 Terminator EFI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: LS1 Driveshaft
them vibes stink, i have spent alot of time chasing them too, thought i had em gone but went to a poly trans mount and torque are mount and guess what.......
$125 shipped? to 52732 got my paypal at the ready
$125 shipped? to 52732 got my paypal at the ready
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