I recently made my own set of adjustable LCAs, and had enough metal to make multiple sets. They are made out of 6061-T65 solid aluminum, with 3/4"-16 chromoly rod ends. Polish them up and they look really nice. Currently just trying to sell the one set (still waiting on jam nuts, but that will arrive soon).

$175 + shipping

 

R/H and L/H thread? Pretty cool!

 

Yes they are, they can be adjusted on the car. The rough parts are actually knurls since there is not a spot for a wrench. That way you can still get a grip.

 

I am open to offers.

 

Bump, make offers. I still have a set of the 1.25" LCAs I need to get rid of.

 

Bump, no one wants a set of good LCAs huh?

 

Bump, still have a set of LCAs...

 

Make offers.

 

Where are you located? I need a set of adjustable LCA's but id like to see these first hand before i buy.

 

I'm in the middle of MN, so if you're from Chicago it'd be a pretty far drive. I can take plenty of pictures for you if you'd like. I understand wanting to see and inspect them for yourself though.

 

How many of these have you made/sold and how much power were those cars making?

I ask because these would be going on a car making 525hp and 500lb of torque.

Id love to support a TGO member making stuff for our cars i just dont want to get hurt in the process haha!

 

I've made a few sets and haven't sold any yet, but I have put one of the 1" sets on my daily driver 94 Z28. They have held up very well with no bending, cracking, tearing of threads or breakage in general after about 2k miles. So a 1.25" set would be a lot stronger, especially since it uses bigger/higher rated rod ends. These are very similar to these ones here, and he states later on that page that his LCAs bent his axle, but the LCAs did not bend. I machined out the aluminum for mine, however, instead of buying it pre-cut. Just as a comparison of what these are to what Spohn delivers for his adjustable LCAs...


MINE
rod = 1.25" (solid), typical 40 ksi yield
rod end = 3/4"-16 thread, chrome moly, teflon self lubricating race, 28ksi load
price: $175


SPOHN
tubing = 1.25" x .095" wall DOM (tubing), 40 ksi yield
rod end = 3/4" thread, chrome moly, teflon self lubricating race, unknown load rating
price: $209

In the end, it is your decision and I completely understand with putting them on a 500+ hp car. I started getting in to drag racing this past summer, and have been around plenty of high hp cars and I know what it takes for them to "hold up". Putting something new on a powerful car is not a small decision!


references:
Spohn Adjustable LCA
for the ratings, wikipedia them.

 

You seem to know what your talking about, the only thing that makes me nervous is that they havent been tested yet on a high HP application. If a spohn arm breaks they will replace it, can you offer the same guarantee? If your comfortable with that and will include shipping in the asking price ill take them and test them out this spring.

 

I would be willing to replace what breaks (rod end, or rod itself), or give you a refund if I cannot replace it, for one racing season. Although I am very confident these will last longer than a year, it's hard for me to say since I don't know how often or how hard you drive or race. I would want to see pictures, or a video of it breaking or broken before I replaced anything though.

If it breaks anything on your car from being too strong, that's a different story, no guarantees on that haha.

edit: about shipping, it will be about $15 through usps or ups so if you're willing to do $180 shipped I can cover 10 of it.

 

Sounds good, ill send you a PM to get payment info.

 

do you still have a set. i may be interested here in a few weeks.

 

How do you tighten the jam nuts without wrench flats?

 

@antsZRS - I was planning on putting the other set on my car (haven't yet), but I can make more if you are not in a hurry to get them. PM me in a couple weeks when you are looking to buy, I might sell the set I currently have too.

@87350IRCON - That is why I knurled it, so you can at least hold on to it till the nuts are finger tight, and after that the rod ends stop the bar from turning once they rotate to the mounting bolt. I have one of my very first makes on my car now (that uses smaller rods and rod ends) and they can be tightened down more than required this way without damaging the hardware.

 

Okay dokie. When I'm ready ill pm you. Thanx.