Piston Rings Differences
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,136
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Piston Rings Differences
Correct me if im wrong, I have been searching for an Internally Balance Scat crank and they require 6" Rods. However all the piston that I have search for to match require 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring. My question that I have is these ring BAD for a street rod or should I go with 5.7 and the 5/64, 5/64, 3/16 rings. I would like to have the 6" rods and the Internal balance crank but I dont want the smaller ring to have problem because its mainly a street drive car that will see minimium track time.
Thanks: David
Thanks: David
Car Craft, in the December issure, did a "spare parts" build up where they built a motor from "spare parts". One of the spare parts were 6" from Probe, and they matched them to some Probe lightweight forged pistons that came with a 1/16, 1/16, 1/8 ring package. I know that not entirely what you're looking for but this is just another option. ( I don't know what kind of rings you need to run on the street, I suspect that these would do just fine though...)
There is a company called Total Seal. They make a gapless ring. It's actually a 2 piece ring using large gaps. As the engine wears though it stays the same. On a modified 350 they made 451 hp with an average of 375 hp from 3000 to 6000 and 465 lbs. tq with an average of 440 lb tq. The file fit was 441 hp and an average of 370 with 459 lbs ft and an average of 434
Normal rings were 434 hp and a average of 363 and 450 lbs and an average of 426 lbs.
They cost a bit more but the gap can never get bigger therefore you will see less power drop over time.
Check out Car Craft January 2003 for more info on the article.
Normal rings were 434 hp and a average of 363 and 450 lbs and an average of 426 lbs.
They cost a bit more but the gap can never get bigger therefore you will see less power drop over time.
Check out Car Craft January 2003 for more info on the article.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
First of all having a 1/16" top ring means you can't get them in cast iron. Plasma Moly only. Moly rings need a different finish on the cylinder walls to break them in. They also break in a lot quicker. A race engine doesn't usually see a 500 mile break in period.
The 1/16" option reduces friction slightly and seals better above 6,500 RPM, while being considerably more expensive. Stock, (usually 5/64" compression rings), work well and help with the budget.
1/16" rings also take high compression or power adders better.
The 1/16" option reduces friction slightly and seals better above 6,500 RPM, while being considerably more expensive. Stock, (usually 5/64" compression rings), work well and help with the budget.
1/16" rings also take high compression or power adders better.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: northeast ohio
Car: 2000 astro
Engine: 4.3
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 3.42 gears
stephen:
what makes the 1/16 " ring better as far as power adders and higher compression? i realize that the moly helps reduce friction, but don't understand how a smaller ring would seal better than a standard sized one.
what makes the 1/16 " ring better as far as power adders and higher compression? i realize that the moly helps reduce friction, but don't understand how a smaller ring would seal better than a standard sized one.
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