I'm getting a 97 vortec 350 engine that needs to be rebuilt. It needs to be bored out and rebuilt and everything. It also needs a new crankshaft. I was wondering if it would be worth the extra money to rebuild it as a 383 stroker. Does anybody know what is a good kit to get and where to get it from, and maybe a price list. I was guessing somewhere around 1,000 bucks. If its cheaper or more expensive please let me know. I was also wondering if I should get some new heads instead of getting the vortec ones worked on. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Well, I'm looking into building a Vortec 383 myself. I think if you need a new crankshaft, it would DEFINATLY be worth it to build a 383. There are Vortec heads in the Scoggins Dickey catalog, the L31 ones. I am thinking abuot getting those, coupled with the RPM air-gap that'll fit the vortec heads. By the way, what's the deal with Vortec. What's different and great about it?

 

The deal with Vortec is they flow a heck of alot better stock, than any other factory head. Heads shouldn't remain the same over the past 100 years, so Vortec's are the newest head. (Excluding of course the LS1, etc. I'm probably going to fried for saying what I did.) Vortec's are like LS1 heads, if I remember correctly. They just were cast instead of aluminum.

 

Vortecs are nothing like LS1 heads!!

 

Well it appears I stand corrected. Although he gave nothing to support his reasoning for saying so, neither did I so who am I to argue?

 

Here's some evidence to back up his statement: "Vortecs are nothing like LS1 heads".

I'll also say Vortec heads off of a '97 Vortec truck engine are not performance heads. They need help.

 

Yes when they are stock they DO need help, I totally agree with that. That's why Edelbrock came in with there E-Tec's. They picked up where the factory left off and have created some NICE heads...

 

The Vortec heads are mimics of the LT1 design less the reverse flow cooling.

 

I believe the crank is the main difference, so to have a 383, you have to have the stroker crank. I think it is longer, which is why it gives me torque. My input is based on word of mouth, not superior knowledge. Feel free to update me if wrong.

 

To make a 350 a "stroker" you must use a 400 crank. (Which is taller/bigger and gives you a longer stroke, which equals more displacement and more potential for power...

 

The 383 Stroker has to be one of the best deals out there right now...you get Big Block power (if you do it right) for Small Block price not much can beat that...well maybe a 383 with an S-Trim on it

 

I was looking at a 383 myself and then some people convinced me to go with a 400. More displacement and it's still cheap to build! (I'm looking at stroking the 400 also!)

 

My 388 started out as vortec out of a tahoe, you can get cast 383 cranks off E-bay anywhere from $175-250, but if you wanted to buy it in a kit Jegs sells eagle rotating assemblies for just under $1000. The advantage to using a late model block is that it's already setup for a roller cam and if the lifters are in good shape you save $300 not having to buy a set of lifters. :hail: 383

 

Im selling a scat 9000 cast crank brand new , i piece rearmain . Internal balance for 6 inch rods ,3.75 stroke 175.00 plus shipping . I need a stronger crank than this , i decided to go forced induction . The only replacment for displacment is forced induction . With a blower , or turbo setup you get the drivablity and gas mileage of the smaller cubes , but the power of a big block .