OK gang....... I've decided to build a 355 for mild to mid performance. From what i've seen here, a 355 is just a 350 bored 0.30. This is correct ?? I've got a 1975 casting #010 350 4-bolt main from a van being dropped off this Friday. It's just the block and caps, no crank or pistons, rods...... I know I have to have the block machined and will be taking it in next week. Is there any special info that I need to give the machinist and do I need to get a crank before I go there ?? This is my first rebuild and decided to stick with the 355 for now due to the usual budget factors. Will I get good performance with this set-up; ported and polished 083 heads, H268 comp cam, gasket matched performer intake with C.C. Q-Jet ?? I have to stay emissions legal per the sniffer. No visuals and proper smog components to worry about. Please advise me on the best way to start this project and if this engine combo will work well. Thanks !!!

 

A 355 is a 350 that has been overbored .030", correct.

The machine shop should have the pistons so he can hone the block to the final skirt clearance based on the pistons actually going into the holes.

What are you going to do for crank/rods? The shop will have to press the pistons onto the rods as well.

Peformance will be great, assuming you're doing something about the exhaust.

 

five7kid,
Thanks for the reply !! That's where i'm stuck, should i buy one of those kits that has crank, rods, pistons, brfore I go there ??? I don't know where to start or what kind of kit to buy.......piston sizes, type, rods, all that stuff. I just don't want to be running around in circles between the machine shop and getting the items that i really need !! What's your opinion on this ?? Whats the best way to go about it ?? I'm not looking for the very cheapist way to go because I want good parts to be used in this build-up, not the top of the line stuff but good reliable products.

Yes, I'l have the Edelbrock TES headers, and the same catback system after the motor is built. What do you think the ball-park HP figure will be ?? Thanks again for your input !!
Darrell.

 

Take the block down to the shop and have them tank and inspect it. They'll be able to estimate the overbore that will be required, if any. Then you can order a rotating assembly, and they can start the rough bore. When the parts arrive, they can do the final hone and press the pistons onto the rods (if not already done). They need to know what you're getting, though, because clearances can differ depending upon piston type, and honing can differ based on ring material. Several trips to the machine shop is a good thing, because it shows they are willing to work with you.

HP should be in the 300 range easily.

Oh, you've got to do something about the air cleaner, too. The LG4 piece is terrible.

 

The shop may have a 350 crank and a good set of rods sitting around that they can work up for you. Might be cheaper than mail order, and could be another feather in your cap with regard to good relations with the shop.

 

I plan on going to several shops in the area to see how they operate. See what they have to say about the situation and what they have to offer. Thanks for your input !! What would you suggest for pistons and rings ??? I won't drive the car " Like it was stolen " and won't rev the crap out of it. It'll be a daily driver half highway half city. Won't race it either. Just want to have the power to get-up-and-go if I have to !

I already have a dual snorkel system hooked up. I won't be running with open element. Will get a K&N filter to install though.

Thanks again !!!
Darrell

 

Most any replacement piston will do. I ran a set of Badger cast for 10 years, street driving & strip abuse, no problems with them.

Moly rings would probably be better than cast or chrome.