Can Anyone Help?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Westland
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 350 Carb'd
Transmission: 700R4
Can Anyone Help?
Well, this is my first time posting here, and I'm not really sure where to begin. Here's the first part. I bought an 87 IROC Z Convertible (20th Anniversary). The car was previously stolen and stripped. So I get a car with a 350 carb'd. Now, at first excitement (love carbs)...I thought I was in Heaven. That was over $3000 ago. Within 24 hours, the motor spun a bearing. New motor is in. New carb, too...unfortunatley, a Holley smogger 650 cfm. (Which has been a ROYAL pain to set the air/fuel mixture).
Anyways, from day one, I have had guages that work when they want to. Most of the time, they think it's vacation time. Can anyone tell me what wiring to check beyond the cluster that may play fault? The guages do work, just not properly. One thing I've noticed so far, is that the three wires that used to go to the 305 TPI alternator are now mixed to a two wire harness for the older style alternator. Could this play into it? I saw in the schematics that the brown wire going to the voltage regulator feeds back to the instrument cluster, and it's currently tied together with a brown and white wire (which are both connected to the black wire on the 2 wire plug for the alternator). I hope someone out there may have an answer...cuz I'm at my wits end with the electrical troubles. Another thing that happens, is when the guage DO decide to work, you can watch the fuel guage actually move up when you're accelerating. Go figure that!
The next issue is the overheating problem. I know the 3rd genners have issues, and have read the other sections on it. I've taken out the thermostat, have a really good electric fan (single)...made sure the radiator (copper) was clear, took out the old A/C condensor coil, and the coolant is good. I don't believe there is a air foil under the nose of the car, though.
Okay...that's enough for now. Hopefully I'm overlooking something really simple...oh...and the fusible links at the starter are also "electrical taped" past the links...from some "genius'" wiring game. The car is beautiful...but has become a nightmare...and NO Camaro deserves that! (Or Firebird, for that matter).
Thanks everyone...
Ace
Anyways, from day one, I have had guages that work when they want to. Most of the time, they think it's vacation time. Can anyone tell me what wiring to check beyond the cluster that may play fault? The guages do work, just not properly. One thing I've noticed so far, is that the three wires that used to go to the 305 TPI alternator are now mixed to a two wire harness for the older style alternator. Could this play into it? I saw in the schematics that the brown wire going to the voltage regulator feeds back to the instrument cluster, and it's currently tied together with a brown and white wire (which are both connected to the black wire on the 2 wire plug for the alternator). I hope someone out there may have an answer...cuz I'm at my wits end with the electrical troubles. Another thing that happens, is when the guage DO decide to work, you can watch the fuel guage actually move up when you're accelerating. Go figure that!
The next issue is the overheating problem. I know the 3rd genners have issues, and have read the other sections on it. I've taken out the thermostat, have a really good electric fan (single)...made sure the radiator (copper) was clear, took out the old A/C condensor coil, and the coolant is good. I don't believe there is a air foil under the nose of the car, though.
Okay...that's enough for now. Hopefully I'm overlooking something really simple...oh...and the fusible links at the starter are also "electrical taped" past the links...from some "genius'" wiring game. The car is beautiful...but has become a nightmare...and NO Camaro deserves that! (Or Firebird, for that matter).
Thanks everyone...
Ace
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Westland
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 350 Carb'd
Transmission: 700R4
Please Help!!!
Well, can anyone out there perhaps point me to what areas in the wiring could be causing the instrument guages to work on and off? They seem to work some times, and not work other times.
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
From: Idaho Falls
Car: 82 Trans Am
Engine: LTX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 strengthed 7.5 inch
it is possible that the printed circuit behind the gauges is losing contact with the connector.. best bet would be to order up the original helms manual for the car to get the wiring diagrams..
the car is not smog legal anyway with the carb you have so ditch it and get something that is easier to set.. also spray some carb cleaner around the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak..
the air dam under the car helps with cooling, you will have trouble without it..
gotta run, sure someone else will chime it too..
the car is not smog legal anyway with the carb you have so ditch it and get something that is easier to set.. also spray some carb cleaner around the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak..
the air dam under the car helps with cooling, you will have trouble without it..
gotta run, sure someone else will chime it too..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Westland
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Convertible
Engine: 350 Carb'd
Transmission: 700R4
Okay, here's an update...
First, I ordered a new air dam from the dealership. Only cost $26, which wasn't too bad. But I went a bit further and replaced the copper-core radiator with an aluminum 4 core and a B&M trans cooler. Talk about a difference! I'm running easily 60-100 degrees cooler, which is a relief!
As for the electrical problem, one thing I noticed was that the main braided ground strap between the block and the firewall was missing. I installed a new one. Although some things are working better, I'm still having issues with my guages. Right now, if you get in the car and look at the fuel guage, it shows the fuel level. When you turn the key forward (or start the engine), the guage drops down into the middle of the 8th of a tank warning orange area. As you use fuel, it will eventually work it's way down to the empty area, even though I'm not out of gas. Anyone have any pointers on where to look next?
First, I ordered a new air dam from the dealership. Only cost $26, which wasn't too bad. But I went a bit further and replaced the copper-core radiator with an aluminum 4 core and a B&M trans cooler. Talk about a difference! I'm running easily 60-100 degrees cooler, which is a relief!
As for the electrical problem, one thing I noticed was that the main braided ground strap between the block and the firewall was missing. I installed a new one. Although some things are working better, I'm still having issues with my guages. Right now, if you get in the car and look at the fuel guage, it shows the fuel level. When you turn the key forward (or start the engine), the guage drops down into the middle of the 8th of a tank warning orange area. As you use fuel, it will eventually work it's way down to the empty area, even though I'm not out of gas. Anyone have any pointers on where to look next?
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 383 TPI (Yes, TPI. Not for long though)
Transmission: 700r4
Just offering opinion here, but if the gauges have been messed up since before the new motor was in, you might have better luck getting this answered on the electrical or tech/engine forum.



