need help getting my carbed 383 swap running
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Richmond,VA
Car: 1988 Camaro SC
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH-350
need help getting my carbed 383 swap running
Im putting a carburated 383 in my 88 camaro. I need to know what wires I need to make this motor run. I am using a MSD distributer, MSD 6-AL ignition box, Blaster 2 coil and will be using an alternator. Ive heard that I have to rewire the fuel pump relay to make the fuel pump work. Where is that located and how do I rewire it? Im going to do away with the ECM so I think the only wires i need are the alt. wires and the starter wires but i have no clue which ones they are on that very large wiring harness. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 954
Likes: 1
From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
What was the car to begin with. TBI, TPI. I heve seen posts here on how to wire the relay. If you search you should get plenty there. Do not forget a pressure regulator and do the wiring the right way.
I read a post here where someone used s switch and his when car was valdalized they turned the pump on. His engine was hydro-locked and gas was pouring out of the full intake.
I read a post here where someone used s switch and his when car was valdalized they turned the pump on. His engine was hydro-locked and gas was pouring out of the full intake.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Richmond,VA
Car: 1988 Camaro SC
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH-350
IM NOT SURE WHAT THE CAR ORIGINALLY WAS IT DIDNT HAVE A MOTOR WHEN I BOUGHT IT. I GOT THE MALLORY 3 PORT REGULATOR. I DID A SEARCH AND FOUND ONE THAT SAID LOOK UNDER THE CARPET IN THE HATCH AND SPLICE INTO THE TAN WIRE AND RUN IT TO THE IGNITION SLOT ON THE FUSEBOX AND PUT A TOGGLE SWITCH IN BETWEEN TO TURN IT ON AND OFF. IT ALSO SAID WIRE IT UP TO AN OIL PRESSURE SWITCH SO THE FUEL PUMP WILL SHUT OFF IF THE OIL PRESSURE DROPS. SUPPOSEDLY IF I JUST RUN A HOT WIRE TO THE RELAY THE PUMP AND THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH WILL STILL WORK WITHOUT THE ECM. IF YOU COULD CLEAR THIS UP FOR ME I WOULD APPRECIATE IT. I WANT TO DO IT THE RIGHT WAY THE FIRST TIME!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 954
Likes: 1
From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
It sounds like you are on the right track. I think using the oil pressure switch is the way to go. You may waht to consider building or buying a delay circut to eliminate the need for the toggle switch. There three relays in the near the brake booster I forget which one is the fuel pump relay. You will be better off tracing some of the wires with a test light and multimeter.
You may also want to consider replacing the iol pressure swich while you are at it. My L98 car the switch would sometimes stick letting the fuel pump run when the car was not in use.
I do not know how far the archives go back, but about 5 years ago I posted what colors did what when I was trouble shooting a bad fuel pump relay on my LB9.
You may also want to consider replacing the iol pressure swich while you are at it. My L98 car the switch would sometimes stick letting the fuel pump run when the car was not in use.
I do not know how far the archives go back, but about 5 years ago I posted what colors did what when I was trouble shooting a bad fuel pump relay on my LB9.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by RacerDonnie13
IM NOT SURE WHAT THE CAR ORIGINALLY WAS IT DIDNT HAVE A MOTOR WHEN I BOUGHT IT.
IM NOT SURE WHAT THE CAR ORIGINALLY WAS IT DIDNT HAVE A MOTOR WHEN I BOUGHT IT.
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