Well, i just got a 350 out of a 87 chevy pick up, its a two bolt main, i took the whole motor apart and noticed at the top of th cylinder walls a lip where the cylinder stopped, its not a big one just enough for my finger nail to catch, what i am wondering is, what should i have done to the block? get it dipped and bored .030 over and get cam bearings installed and give them by crank to have them check it all out, but should i wait to get forged pistons .030 over and then give them the block, crank, and pistons to have them do it all at once? My purpose is to get a good daily driver 350 with a nice punch here and there, and the other thing is i dont want to put a whole lot of money in it, so my question was when i get it bored over cause i have to, should i already buy the pistons and then brinkg them everything so they can bore it, and balance everything? by the way this is my first build, so i kind of need some help, thanks guys!

i guess your talking about the carbon ring at the top of the cylinder bore? They can hone that out. Don't attempt to remove the pistons until you get that out of there. It can take a chunk out of your block. Also there's what I think they call a ridge reamer tool that gets all the carbon off if you want to do it yourself. I would only bore if you have to. Any competent engine shop should be able to tell you immediately whether they think you need to bore or not. Since this is your first build I would recommend letting them install all your main and cam bearings. They will assemble the short block for you for a small price usually if you bring in your pistons, crank and rods. As your pistons will most likely be needing pressed on to your rods. Forged pistons are overkill on your car unless your running high compression, nitrous, or forced induction. A good set of hypereutectic pistons will be cheap and last a long time. Good luck on your first build. If you have any more questions just ask. Most of the guys on the board will give you more input I'm sure.

thanks man, yea, i wasnt sure if i should get forged or not, i noticed the other ones are a hell of a lot cheaper, but theres a machine shop out back of our shop so i can take ti to them one day and see what needs to be done, like i said, i dont want a lot ofmoney in it, im going to take my time on building it, no rush at all, i am going to save up and probally buy a whole kit with rods, pistons, bearings, rings and everything off summit or osmething. but first im going to show them my block and have them tell me what i should do, then after i get the rotating assembly done, i am going to get my heads worked, just get new valves put in and get the heads p&p. then aluminum roller rockers, i also want a nice cam in there, probally more low end than high end, so im not sure yet, give me some ideas what would make an awsome weekend driver and occasional nailer! haha. thanks guys.

head work is what's expensive. Whoever does your heads will most likely flow test them. Then you can base your cam profile off those measurements, that way you don't just have to pick low end or high end. My 355 I built pulls from 2200 - 5800 according to the dyno sheet thats where it's pulling the most torque

i didnt think head work would cost more than the block and rotating work, so what should i do in steps?

i'm not sure how much it's going to run you, you'd have to call the shop where your going to get them done. There's only like 2 shops within 25 miles of me that do just that. And since they know it they charge more. Maybe you'll have better luck. I'm guessing headwork will probably be close to the same as getting the block worked. magnafluxed, bored, honed,bearings installed. Best thing to do would be to save up and do it all at once. Are you going carb'ed or fuel injected? alot of people would recommend going with vortec heads if you want something that flows well and is like $600 a pair. But you have to replace your intake as well. I think they actually have TPI intakes for vortec heads now. But don't hold me to that.

For the record, that's cylinder ridge left by the end of the top compression ring travel. There isn't anything to wear on the cylinder wall above that.

If it isn't too big, you can ream it off and after deglazing the cylinders, put it back together with new rings. But, you shouldn't try to rering the engine without removing that ridge.

Of course, if you get the cylinders bored, it will disappear.