So I got a car that had a t56 swapped into it. When I got it home I showed my buddy who is a mechanic. He immediately said that I shouldn't be having this much trouble putting the car into reverse. (Grinds and doesn't really want to go into reverse without forcing it) So I let him sit in it and he came to the conclusion that I may need a rebuild. I knew it would need a new clutch soon but was not really expecting a rebuild... I then proceeded to show him what happens when I start from a dead stop (A grinding noise that builds up slightly while I am under 1k rpm and once I go over 1k rpms It goes away until I shift to the next gear)He still insisted that I would have to pull the trans out and rebuild it. What do you guys think? I know these trannys had problems going into reverse and yes I have searched the forum but didn't see anything major worth trying. Thanks for the help!

 

Not a trans problem.

Stiff going into gear is ALWAYS a clutch problem.

Change the clutch.

Can't say about the grinding noise for sure; but be sure to replace the pilot bearing/bushing while you're doing the clutch. Might fix it. Needs a new one regardless.

 

If it's a grinding noise and you find it's not the throwout bearing, you won't know until you pull it apart.

Wear notwithstanding, they didn't have problems going into reverse until the reverse lockout isn't hooked up/working, or the clutch isn't releasing.

 

I thought T56s had a reputation to have some "gravel noise", or "rocks in a can" kind of noise when just starting, such as from 0-5mph.

Link #1, and Link #2 with some suggestion on the source of the problem (main shaft pre-load out of spec).

 

Yes, that's a possible issue of OPs trans. End-play / pre-load is important, with all shafts supported on tapered roller berings.

 

One of my buddies suggested that I check the trans oil.Guess ill crawl under there tomorrow. But that still doesn't explain why it grinds in reverse.

 

"Grinds in {fill in the blank gear}" is also a clutch problem, NOT a trans problem.

You need a clutch. Posting more stuff on the Internet won't fix it. Put a new clutch in it. Don't forget to change the pilot bearing/bushing, that might even be the specific clutch part that's causing the problem now, as opposed to the big friction disc and all that.

Won't hurt to check the oil of course; but don't expect much change in the status of the clutch.

 

Thanks guys. Guess I'll pull it out and just do a full rebuild and throw a clutch in it. Not what I wanted to hear but better to just get it all done at once.

 

Not mush sense in messing with the trans. Significant $$$, BIG risk of making something worse instead of better, near ZERO chance of making any improvement in anything.

What you have is NOT a trans problem.

Leave the trans alone, just replace the clutch. Pay more attention to the details of DOING IT RIGHT than big brand names, "torque ratings", and other distractions.

If it still doesn't work right, you can always pop the trans back out and start messing with it; but instinct tells me you won't find it necessary.

 

My 2000 had issues going into reverse, would take a few trys then it would "grind" in. Found my OE clutch was shot at 42k. Go over the hydraulics with a fine tooth comb and make sure that if a shim is needed, its there. What hydraulics do you currently use? Any mods if the OE stuff?