Hello - can someone tell me what would be a good drop-in engine replacement for an 87 l98 engine? Mine spun a bearing and is not rebuildable. I'm looking to spend about $2k on the engine (give or take) and hopefully get a decent warranty. Lotta replacement engines out there, but apparently not many that will just drop in and bolt up to the stock TPI system. I keep finding all these 'pre-85 non roller blocks' and I'm not looking to go backwards.

 

Explain about this "not rebuildable". That's pretty hard to do, actually.

ANY 350 will bolt to the stock TPI system, as far as that goes. At worst, if you use a block from 85 or before, you won't have a roller cam, and you'll have to change out the flex plate.

But, it's near impossible to spin a bearing and render an engine "not rebuildable". Somthing doesn't sound quite right here.

 

Actually, it's very easy. You spin #7 and blow a hole thru the side of the block! Piston guts and oil everywhere! It's not even good for a core.

 

That's a little different from "spun a bearing". But yeah, that would indeed make it hard to rebuild.

Sounds to me like you just need to get yerbasic 350 short block and use your existing heads and induction on it.

 

My brother was very happy with the engine he got from these guys http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/...34107456639.50 . Don't forget to add core charge, freight and forklift fees to the price.

I told him to specify 083 casting heads, which he did. He ordered on-line, they called to talk to him about what he had planned, agreed it would work for him, said no problem on the heads. He got what he asked for.

 

I was reading this cause I also spun the bearing in my 305, don't want to waste money rebulding a 305. and want to swap in a 90 corvette 350, cause of the aluminum heads. The local parts place is quoting me just short of 2k delivered to the nearest store.

 

Hey doc76239 - I wanted that engine too! But rebuiltauto and several other places said they couldnt get cores! They could get the iron-head, but not the aluminum one. PLEASE let me have the name of the place that can get you this engine! (and how are you dealing with the core, since it's not the same?)

 

I just found out on the TPI forum that the vette aluminum headed engine is not a factory TPi bolt on. The intake manifolds are differant, and the ecm's are not the same. So scratch that idea. I guess i will just have to get a 5.7 litre motor.

 

Intakes and ECMs are not that tough of a score in a good junkyard. (depending on where you are of course) But it's definitely not a true drop-in.

 

heh i would love to get a perfect drop in engine for 2-3 grand besides tuning and wiring is just drop and go would benice =)

 

Not too hard, if you do a little assembly yourself...

Scoggin Dickey for everything...
L31 (vortec)-$1229.75
(no cam/lifters)
Vortec heads-$539.50/pair ($269.75/each)
12pt Intake bolt kit-$14.95
TPI Vortec intake base-$399.20
-----------------------------------------
TOTAL-$2183.40+cam/lifters/rocker arms

+shipping & tax (if in Texas, like me)

OR...

L31 long block-$2875.92
TPI Vortec intake base-$399.20
------------------------------------
$3275.12

Save almost a grand, get a better cam, and better hp.

When the time comes, I'm going the first route.

 

And what numbers do the above combos make?

 

Well, that depends on your cam selection, and intake really. Not real sure what the L31 cam is for specs.

On either one, you could go with your choice of TPI, whether it be stock runners, thyrottle body, plenum...or other.

Those were just long block combos to get you started.

 

Watch out from them! I had problems with them from the start. I also specified 083 heads, I ended up with 193 heads and a peanut cam! The best my L98 could muster with a good tune and everything rebuilt was 15.3 @ 87mph at Rt 66 in good weather. Had a 2.02 60' as well.

It took 2 months to even get them to agree to ship me some 083 heads and an L98 cam, which they never did.

Their engines are only good if nothing goes wrong with the engine. Their warranty setup is terrible. You have to pay to ship it back, and if they do replace the engine then you pay half cost. Don't go with them. Find someone local and get a short block done. It'll be infinitely better than going with those guys.

 

Yeah, working long-distance you do take chances. Jasper basically makes a replacement engine that can be obtained locally with identical specs for about $1400. No shipping to deal with or anything. You can get 'em from NAPA, CSK, whomever, and they'll replace the engine outright if something goes wrong. I guess maybe I'll order the 90 engine with the slightly better cam and heads and go from there. Maybe on down the road i'll have a better budget!

 

You can probably get a decent short block built for about $800 or so with good quality parts.

Personally, I'd go with the vortec setup recomended by stephen, that'll give some good power and you should be very happy with that setup.

 

I know some people say that Desktop Dyno isn't real accurate for FI cars, but even if it's not (and I got it show 233hp on, what should be, my stock 87 TPI, rated at 225hp) just changing the head flow charts from a pair of tested stock L98 heads, to a set of tested L31 (Vortec) heads, it shows 281hp. Not bad for a 50hph gain!

BTW, I did find out the to keep EGR on a TPI engine, you're looking at another $69.25 for a kit, also from Scoggin Dickey.

 

But will the vortec heads work with the tpi ecu without major reflashing or replacment? And incase any one wanted to know Schucks sells a rebuilt 5.7 for some were around 1200 shipped, plus core charge.

 

Yeah - that's about the same price as checker here. Which really isn't bad, and the warranty is pretty decent. Maybe I'll just do that, put some new injectors/rad/dist and so forth, slam the hood down, and call it done.

 

thats probably the faster way to get your car up and running

 

I just wanted to bump this thread up because it has been very helpful to me in trying to find a replacement engine.

~Matt

 

Another bump...

Just located this forum while looking for info to replace a L98 that is installed in a K5 Blazer.

Ideally, Id like to find a long block to drop right in without having to go through the trouble/added expense of replacing the TPI.

Was there any resolution to OP's post?