tried a search and could not get anywhere

i would like to know if anyone here has a SBC running with a 4" stroke in and f-body. would there be clearance issues with the k-member? anybody know? How bout the pan for said application?

thanks you

 

If it's an SBC, it'll have the same clearance and oil pan as any other SBC.

 

 

IMHO the original question did not get answered. I am wondering if it is possible to get a 4 inch stroke in a 350 block? If not, then how difficult is it to do with a 400 block? Issues as I see it are crank clearance with block, rod length, piston compression height, and cam clearance. If using a 400 block in a 3rd gen, what other issues come into play like 700R4 interface, motor mounts, front accessories, etc.?

 

I'm not running one, but I've done it for other people.

A 400 block with a 4" stroke would give you 427 cubic inches. At .030" over, it is a 434.

MUCH MUCH harder to do with a stock 350 block, because those aren't already relieved from the factory for the 400 stroke. It's therefore just that much more grinding, and that much more likelihood of hitting water. About as far as most people dare to take a 350 is to 3.875" stroke; which, at .030" over, is commonly referred to as a 396.

You use the pan for whatever block you have; LH or RH dipstick, 1- or 2-pc rear main seal; to fit this chassis. Nothing particularly unusual there.

The K-member has nothing to do with the stroke.

None of the rest of those things care about the stroke either.

 

you'll just need to do a doodoo load of grinding and hope you dont hit a water hole.. no k-member mods needed.. you might need a stroker oil pan though, just to be safe.. a 4" stroke is pretty big.. if you are gonna go through the hassle, get a 400 block and go BIG or go home..

 

That's really pushing it with such a short deck height of a SBC. An aftermarket block with a taller deck height could easily do it. Without the taller deck height, the wrist pin gets pushed too high up into the ring lands. As for doing a 4" stroke in any factory SBC block, chances are you'll hit a water jacket trying to clearance the block.

A very small base circle cam would also need to be used or the rods will hit the cam. It's a lot of money to spend just to try and get more CID from a SBC. It would be cheaper to just build a BBC.

 

i wanted to bring this back because a local guy just bought a 408 stroker from T&L engine development. its a ZZ4 based block that has a 4 inch stroke. runs a CC306 cam in it i believe. ran somewhere in the 12's at 110 on motor and 11.6 at 117-119 or w/e it was on a 150 shot.

I was intrigued at this because the motor seems like a steal for 4700 bucks for the long block which includes fully forged internals, cam, other stuff, and Dart Platinum Pro 1 200cc heads and performer RPM intake.

i was wondering how much better that ZZ4 block is compared to factory 1 pc seal blocks?

 

i dont know about the whole zz block thing, but T and L is where my 408 came from, they make them all the time and dont seem to have any real problems with them, they have a warranty and everything. Mine is working great so far. And as far as i know, they use factory blocks, mine is

 

thats good to know! i may go that way now!

 

Yes it can and has been done. My friend has a SB2 block pushed out to 408ci with I want to say 18* heads. I won't say name b/c he is in a race class and many know him but it is awsome. Put out 770hp Naturaly Aspirated and that was the old setup now makes 820hp at the fly wheel. This is a all out race motor but goes a full season with out even a oil change. I know it has a different pan on it other than that I can't say. Ask Ktech.

 

i had them put the moroso 6qt pan on mine, lloyd at T and L said it just needed a little work, so no problems there.

 

both of the "square" engines i got to build for an endurance car used a small base circle cam, oliver rods with capscrews(not bolt and nut), still had to clearance rods, clearance the crank(to reduce the amount of shaved cyl wall), lots of mallory metal to get the crank to balance, but what a ride. power from 3000, to 7000. near 770 horse both were bowtie standard deck height blocks. we used 6" rods for piston to crank clearance. piston pin was 60% above the oil ring. the static compression was something like 13.1:1 because of the stroke. it really liked a "small"(not a s load of duration) cam lobe with little to no overlap. however it had .700" lift at the valves with 2:1 shaft rockers. all of this was to get enough flow and not let p.t.v. get too close.

now keep in mind these were/(are?) full on race motors. rebuilds were quite often in relation to heads,valvesprings and piston changes.

a streetable engine could definately be built. but the 396 variant above is just as unique and may last longer in a street vehicle. i have one in my 67 chevelle that just completed the power tour long haul without a hint of using oil.

hope any info helps i may have forgotten some stuff as it was 10 or 12 years ago when we got to play with these things.

oil pans were steffs pans with moroso billet oil pumps and huge 1.25" oil pump pickups