Quasi-Traction
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So I thought I'd post up a few Ideas and specs for what I'm thinking about for a new motor buildup. I have a few of these pieces, the ones in bold are the ones that I have already:
If I did my math right, I'm looking at close to a 8.3:1 dynamic CR. with just over a 10.2 static.
I'm looking for something I can consistantly spin to 5700-6000rpm, that will make peak horses somewhere at about 5500-5900rpm. I don't see the need for a forged crank, pistons or rods. Since this won't ever be spun past 6200rpm (unless I severly miss a shift). Am I misguided? I'm aiming for about 290ish-300 flywheel horse with about 340ft/lbs peak torque. Is this goal attainable with this combo?
Any suggestions you can offer up are helpful. I'm already about $700 into this with machine work and what I have so far. I'd like to keep it around $2000 as that's what I budgeted in for this buildup.
Can it be done guys?
- 3970010 4 bolt main bare block, .03 over, zero decked, align bored, magnafluxed, new Clevite main and cam bearings, new freeze plugs, some coolent passage protection/block filler, widened oil return passages at rear of cam valley. some milling work has been done on the timing chain face area to clear a dual roller without a cam button or shim, per the advice of the machinist.
- LJ GM crank with 3.48" stroke, 10over/10under
- GM standard 5.7" Connecting rods (probably put in ARP studs)
- Speed Pro Hyperectutic Flattops w/4 valve reliefs
- Press in style wrist pins
- Sealed power Gapless rings
- Lunati Voodoo 60102LK Cam and lifter kit (262/268 AD, 112LSA/108 Lobe center, .468/.489 lift)
- Cloyes Dual Roller timing chain
- Bare GM 64cc chamber, standard port 170cc runner Vortec Heads, 3/8" screw in ARP studs, Pushrod guideplates, Lunati 73943 springs (480 lb/in) Lunati 75704 seats/retainers, 7 degree locks
- Harland Sharp 1.60 ratio rockers
- Edlebrock Performer RPM Air gap manifold
- Edlebrock 1406 Carb (stock right now but I have the off-road needle/seat, springs, jets/rods, so I COULD recalibrate it).
- SLP 1 5/8" primary headers, with a 3" flange to a 2 1/2" true dual pipe, no crossover pipe
If I did my math right, I'm looking at close to a 8.3:1 dynamic CR. with just over a 10.2 static.
I'm looking for something I can consistantly spin to 5700-6000rpm, that will make peak horses somewhere at about 5500-5900rpm. I don't see the need for a forged crank, pistons or rods. Since this won't ever be spun past 6200rpm (unless I severly miss a shift). Am I misguided? I'm aiming for about 290ish-300 flywheel horse with about 340ft/lbs peak torque. Is this goal attainable with this combo?
Any suggestions you can offer up are helpful. I'm already about $700 into this with machine work and what I have so far. I'd like to keep it around $2000 as that's what I budgeted in for this buildup.
Can it be done guys?
dennisbernal91z
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combo sounds allright, but for 2 grand only. Damn, thats low. You mean in the car and running for 2000?
five7kid
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Be sure to cut the valve guides and spring seats.
And get a real carb.
And get a real carb.
Quasi-Traction
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- Join DateApr 2006
- LocationVancouver, WA/Portland, Orey-gun
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Quote:
And get a real carb.
Yes, the stock valve guides definately can't handle that much lift. I think the max lift is around .475 or .480 without being milled down. Was also considering a 2.02/1.6 grind, but it might end up costing me more than I want to spend right now.Originally Posted by five7kid
Be sure to cut the valve guides and spring seats.And get a real carb.
Do you think I'll be leaving some HP on the table with the Edlebrock? I was also considering switching to a Holley 650 DP, since I have a 5 speed anyways.
five7kid
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Peak horsepower, maybe not. But, lower RPM power, yes. And, the mechanical secondaries are better with a manual transmission.




