I am about to buy an '87 IROC with a bad motor. I have a stout 350 with older 'double hump' 186 heads and custom ground roller cam/rockers, forged 10:1 pistons, etc in my garage. I'm going to put it in the IROC. I have several questions and would appreciate all the help I can get:
1) Will the (basically stock) 700R4 (shift kit, 2600 stall, rebuilt 8k miles ago, B&M Megashifter) handle the approximately 400 hp my engine produces?
2) I found a post about running a carb on a tpi car, so I think that answers those questions.
3) The car will come with TES headers. I heard these will work on my older (iron) heads. True?
4) Car has a cat and 3" cat-back. I'd like to get an off-road Y pipe to replace cat portion. Any exist? Any used for sale?
5) I drive a 98 Formula LS1 with NOS and other goodies. I am running an exhaust cutout (helps when on the bottle). Anyone doing this on 3rd Gens?
6) Car has 3.27 rear (supposedly Borg Warner). Should I go with better posi and 4.11 gears?
NOTE: I don't care about emissions or street driveability or mileage. Car will be primarily drag, with occassional (OK frequent) street action, but not a daily driver.
7) Would a fiberglass hood save a lot of weight? What do they cost? Any available used?
8) Is 90/10 front shocks, remove front sway, move battery to back, replace LCAs, install SFCs about all I need to do to hook well with Nitto Drag radials? What other drag-specific (yet cost efficient) suspension mods should I make?
9) Besides removing AC, front sway bar, running front skinnies . . . any other reasonable-cost weight saving tips? Would removing most of interior save much weight? Is there ant fiberglass/lexan-windowed rear decks available?
10) I do not have a carb or distributor for my engine right now. I'm not that skilled at carb adjustments, nor distributor advance adjustments. What carb would you recommend? Can I buy a pre-custom-curved distributor (I can provide cams specs, car weight, trans type, gearing, etc.)?
11) What should I know about this swap? (i.e. motor mounts? will 700R4 just bolt up? Any clearance issues? Any electrical issues? Will I need to remove in-tank elec. fuel pump and install a new pickup and external electric pump? Any prticular vacuum concerns?, etc.)

I know this is a bunch of questions that have probably been asked and answered a hundred times somewhere on this board, but I am hoping someone here has the time, knowledge and paticience to help a new guy out!

My sons and I have had/raced: a 455 (Olds) powered (500 hp) '80 Trans Am; a VERY stout, highly modified 5.0 '92 Mustang GT; a 95 LT1 powered Z28 (for about a month before totalling that one); a '72 Nova (with the above-mentioned engine in it); and my '98 Formula LS1 with NOS . . . But we're new to 3rd Gens and could use some advice.

Thanks in advance!!!!! - Leo

[This message has been edited by Leo (edited March 14, 2001).]

 

I'm gonna try to answer some q's it was a pretty long one, so I might miss some give not neede info !?!

The 700R4 will bolt right up no problem, I PERSONALLY think that the trans will hold up for a while as long as you have an aftermarket trans cooler. But these babies can be build to handle a lot more.
Yes you could go with taller gear because of the overdrive, and you stated that it's not a daily driver. I had 3.73's no problem, next time I might get 4.11's
Yes, fiberglass hoods are better but not cheap, I installed a fiber cowl induction scoop on the stock hood so that the intake-carb-cleaner combo could fit.
The people at "Holley by Inglese" could build you a carb to your spec's.
All you need is carb, another distributor that's not controlled by a comp. another (lower volume) fuel pump, you don't need to remove the in tank pump (at least I didn't), only vacuum concerns are for your dist. advance if equiped and your power brakes.

I hope this helps out a bit...

 

Depending upon how "old" your older 350 is, the dipstick could be on the driver's side. Not an issue with the TES. But, since your talking about a "stout" 350 on the strip, you'll be going with Hooker headers anyway, right? Unless you're running in a class that requires mufflers, forget the cutout - just run those long tubes open! But, if you are required to run a muffler, just keep all the pipes above 3" once the two sides come together. SLP 1-3/4" primary or Hooker 2055's would probably flow better than the TES.

The 3.27 rear is a 9-bolt with limited gear availability and, to the best I've heard, no carrier choices. If you want to upgrade, you're probably looking at a 10-bolt swap. Not a big deal, but one of those "details" that tend to come out and bit ja. Or, go all the way now and get a custom 9" or 12-bolt from Strange or Moser.

For the fuel pump, stick with the in-tank electric as long as it's working. Put on a 3-port regulator to bring the pressure down to 6-7 psig and an oil pressure cut-off switch.

To help it hook, check out the Spohn site. Some good stuff to make it all work right.

I'm a little surprised to hear you say you aren't much at carb or ignition adjustments given what you've raced in the past. A Holley or Demon carb is probably what you should look for. Bone up on how to adjust & tune it, same for the ignition. Main issue with timing is to get the total right at WOT (34-36 degrees).

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, TBD heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.