Please Help w/ LT1 build for 88 Camaro 'vert
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,295
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From: California
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Please Help w/ LT1 build for 88 Camaro 'vert
I first off have to admit my “ignorance” when it comes to some of the tech stuff when it comes to engines. With saying that however, I also know my way around an engine bay, and can definitely get most jobs done. I NEED to change out my engine. I am currently running a 305 TBI that is about to die, in my 1988 Camaro SC Convertible. After a lot of posts about trying to revive it and give it power I have finally come to the realization that dropping in an LT1 is the most efficient, cheapest, and best long term investment I can make. So let me start on the few questions I need help with.
First I should tell you that this is going to be a daily driven car, so I want the wild, but still mostly performance mild.
1. Cam - I want to install a cam for the LT1, while it is out of the car. I have heard a lot of different ones from an LT4 hot cam, etc… What is the best for this application? I could really use some part numbers and your personal suggestions.
2. Gears – I want to put in 3.42 Posi Rear End. I heard a 4th gen rear will bolt right up. Is that true? Any suggestions? I heard this is one of the best “put you in your seat” mod available. I think matched with the LT1, it’ll be great.
3. Headers/Exhaust – I am looking at SLP Headers going to a Y pipe, whole cat-back exhaust with an after market cat-back… With cost not being a worry, any suggestions here?
4. Head Porting – This one really kind of throws me, I really do not know what one thing means over another, What should I look for or expect to spend? I heard a lot in the archives about Manley valves, but what else do I need to know.
5. Driveshaft – I heard going with aluminum is great, but not as strong if I am going to be building with torque…
6. 4L60E – Should I change the tranny over as well? Since I have an 88, I am changing a lot and have to put the ECM in as well, or PCM if later LT1. Will it make it easier for me to put the new tranny in or?
Anything else that I am missing? Lol
I also plan on doing the below…
58mm Throttle Body
TPI Air foil
Cold Air Induction
Please anyone and everyone respond I really respect your guys’ opinions and want to hear from experienced and the best on what is the best way to go about this.
Thanks,
James
------------------
1988 Camaro SC Convert!
'95 Black power leather Z28 seats
MSD 6al
8.8 mm custom made wires
MSD hi po coil
MSD hi po distributer
K&N Open element 14x3
more coming soon!
First I should tell you that this is going to be a daily driven car, so I want the wild, but still mostly performance mild.
1. Cam - I want to install a cam for the LT1, while it is out of the car. I have heard a lot of different ones from an LT4 hot cam, etc… What is the best for this application? I could really use some part numbers and your personal suggestions.
2. Gears – I want to put in 3.42 Posi Rear End. I heard a 4th gen rear will bolt right up. Is that true? Any suggestions? I heard this is one of the best “put you in your seat” mod available. I think matched with the LT1, it’ll be great.
3. Headers/Exhaust – I am looking at SLP Headers going to a Y pipe, whole cat-back exhaust with an after market cat-back… With cost not being a worry, any suggestions here?
4. Head Porting – This one really kind of throws me, I really do not know what one thing means over another, What should I look for or expect to spend? I heard a lot in the archives about Manley valves, but what else do I need to know.
5. Driveshaft – I heard going with aluminum is great, but not as strong if I am going to be building with torque…
6. 4L60E – Should I change the tranny over as well? Since I have an 88, I am changing a lot and have to put the ECM in as well, or PCM if later LT1. Will it make it easier for me to put the new tranny in or?
Anything else that I am missing? Lol
I also plan on doing the below…
58mm Throttle Body
TPI Air foil
Cold Air Induction
Please anyone and everyone respond I really respect your guys’ opinions and want to hear from experienced and the best on what is the best way to go about this.
Thanks,
James
------------------
1988 Camaro SC Convert!
'95 Black power leather Z28 seats
MSD 6al
8.8 mm custom made wires
MSD hi po coil
MSD hi po distributer
K&N Open element 14x3
more coming soon!
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Denver, CO
Hey, I'm kind of new at this message board thing, but I thought I'd give it a try. I've been making plans for awhile for my '88 SC, just waiting to get out of school before I start. Mine's going to have some of what you're doing, except that I'm starting with an LT1 and stroking it to a 383. I'll be using a programmable chip to make my own fuel curves, to compensate for the extra ci's. But, with that much power, not to mention the NOS cheater I'm going to slip in, I've had some of your same worries. So let's see if I can help. I'm sure I'll get corrected if I tell you anything wrong.
As far as cam, I would wait until you have the actual engine and have all of your other decisions made. Then, call either JEGS or Summit, and ask about the Crane CompuCams. My dad autocrosses Corvettes, and they seem to be the hottest in the TPI's, esp. with mods. The tech guys will be able to crunch all your numbers and give you the best cam with the performance characterisitics you're looking for.
As for your rear-end, what part of the production year is your car. There were some changes made half-way through the year. Mine is a first half with the shorty-wing, and it came standard with a 3.42, because it had the V6. Also, is your 305 the stock engine, or did it originally come with a V6? Either way, check your codes so you know what you have first. As far as a 4th gen bolting up, not sure, but a 3.42 from third-gens aren't hard to find on the net and in salvage yards. An early C4 Corvette should also be a bolt up. As my dad has taken parts off of his '84 vette, I've played with them on my '88 SC, and most have bolted up just fine.
For exhaust, my dad's vette influence has made me a loyal Borla fan, esp. if money's not a bother. They make kits from cat-back or headers back. Personally, I'm going to go to a custom exhaust shop to have everything to the muffler custom bent, so I can have true duals that stay out of the way of my chassis mods (I plan on autocrossing as well). I'll use Boral mufflers and tailpipes to get that sweet rumble, though.
For your heads, how much more do you want to spend. You can get the high end valves and get send the heads to a big name shop, but I don't think you'll notice much difference if you go to a local engine shop and get a set of middle of the road valves from Summit. I guess it depends on how serious you want your performance. Some other guys might have more suggestions here.
For a driveshaft, since I'm looking at over 450 lb/ft torque, I'm sticking with the stock. I'd be too worried about the aluminum, even though I've heard they can be stronger. If money's still not an option, go with carbon fiber and be done with it.
And finally, for the tranny, I'd go with the 700r4 you could get with the LT1 if you yank it from something. It's a good solid tranny, and I've rebuilt mine and the one on my dad's vette to put stronger bands in and shift kits. The rebuilds aren't too difficult, and you can make a lot of mods to it to take advantage of your power. I'm going with a B&M shift kit and an overdrive lock-up valve so I can stay in od at high rpm (better top speed~160 flat out, I've heard). Just be nice to it--no power-braking.
Hope I helped, sorry about writing a book.
As far as cam, I would wait until you have the actual engine and have all of your other decisions made. Then, call either JEGS or Summit, and ask about the Crane CompuCams. My dad autocrosses Corvettes, and they seem to be the hottest in the TPI's, esp. with mods. The tech guys will be able to crunch all your numbers and give you the best cam with the performance characterisitics you're looking for.
As for your rear-end, what part of the production year is your car. There were some changes made half-way through the year. Mine is a first half with the shorty-wing, and it came standard with a 3.42, because it had the V6. Also, is your 305 the stock engine, or did it originally come with a V6? Either way, check your codes so you know what you have first. As far as a 4th gen bolting up, not sure, but a 3.42 from third-gens aren't hard to find on the net and in salvage yards. An early C4 Corvette should also be a bolt up. As my dad has taken parts off of his '84 vette, I've played with them on my '88 SC, and most have bolted up just fine.
For exhaust, my dad's vette influence has made me a loyal Borla fan, esp. if money's not a bother. They make kits from cat-back or headers back. Personally, I'm going to go to a custom exhaust shop to have everything to the muffler custom bent, so I can have true duals that stay out of the way of my chassis mods (I plan on autocrossing as well). I'll use Boral mufflers and tailpipes to get that sweet rumble, though.
For your heads, how much more do you want to spend. You can get the high end valves and get send the heads to a big name shop, but I don't think you'll notice much difference if you go to a local engine shop and get a set of middle of the road valves from Summit. I guess it depends on how serious you want your performance. Some other guys might have more suggestions here.
For a driveshaft, since I'm looking at over 450 lb/ft torque, I'm sticking with the stock. I'd be too worried about the aluminum, even though I've heard they can be stronger. If money's still not an option, go with carbon fiber and be done with it.
And finally, for the tranny, I'd go with the 700r4 you could get with the LT1 if you yank it from something. It's a good solid tranny, and I've rebuilt mine and the one on my dad's vette to put stronger bands in and shift kits. The rebuilds aren't too difficult, and you can make a lot of mods to it to take advantage of your power. I'm going with a B&M shift kit and an overdrive lock-up valve so I can stay in od at high rpm (better top speed~160 flat out, I've heard). Just be nice to it--no power-braking.
Hope I helped, sorry about writing a book.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: California
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by traumatech:
Hey, I'm kind of new at this message board thing, but I thought I'd give it a try. I've been making plans for awhile for my '88 SC, just waiting to get out of school before I start. Mine's going to have some of what you're doing, except that I'm starting with an LT1 and stroking it to a 383. I'll be using a programmable chip to make my own fuel curves, to compensate for the extra ci's. But, with that much power, not to mention the NOS cheater I'm going to slip in, I've had some of your same worries. So let's see if I can help. I'm sure I'll get corrected if I tell you anything wrong.
As far as cam, I would wait until you have the actual engine and have all of your other decisions made. Then, call either JEGS or Summit, and ask about the Crane CompuCams. My dad autocrosses Corvettes, and they seem to be the hottest in the TPI's, esp. with mods. The tech guys will be able to crunch all your numbers and give you the best cam with the performance characterisitics you're looking for.
As for your rear-end, what part of the production year is your car. There were some changes made half-way through the year. Mine is a first half with the shorty-wing, and it came standard with a 3.42, because it had the V6. Also, is your 305 the stock engine, or did it originally come with a V6? Either way, check your codes so you know what you have first. As far as a 4th gen bolting up, not sure, but a 3.42 from third-gens aren't hard to find on the net and in salvage yards. An early C4 Corvette should also be a bolt up. As my dad has taken parts off of his '84 vette, I've played with them on my '88 SC, and most have bolted up just fine.
For exhaust, my dad's vette influence has made me a loyal Borla fan, esp. if money's not a bother. They make kits from cat-back or headers back. Personally, I'm going to go to a custom exhaust shop to have everything to the muffler custom bent, so I can have true duals that stay out of the way of my chassis mods (I plan on autocrossing as well). I'll use Boral mufflers and tailpipes to get that sweet rumble, though.
For your heads, how much more do you want to spend. You can get the high end valves and get send the heads to a big name shop, but I don't think you'll notice much difference if you go to a local engine shop and get a set of middle of the road valves from Summit. I guess it depends on how serious you want your performance. Some other guys might have more suggestions here.
For a driveshaft, since I'm looking at over 450 lb/ft torque, I'm sticking with the stock. I'd be too worried about the aluminum, even though I've heard they can be stronger. If money's still not an option, go with carbon fiber and be done with it.
And finally, for the tranny, I'd go with the 700r4 you could get with the LT1 if you yank it from something. It's a good solid tranny, and I've rebuilt mine and the one on my dad's vette to put stronger bands in and shift kits. The rebuilds aren't too difficult, and you can make a lot of mods to it to take advantage of your power. I'm going with a B&M shift kit and an overdrive lock-up valve so I can stay in od at high rpm (better top speed~160 flat out, I've heard). Just be nice to it--no power-braking.
Hope I helped, sorry about writing a book.</font>
Hey, I'm kind of new at this message board thing, but I thought I'd give it a try. I've been making plans for awhile for my '88 SC, just waiting to get out of school before I start. Mine's going to have some of what you're doing, except that I'm starting with an LT1 and stroking it to a 383. I'll be using a programmable chip to make my own fuel curves, to compensate for the extra ci's. But, with that much power, not to mention the NOS cheater I'm going to slip in, I've had some of your same worries. So let's see if I can help. I'm sure I'll get corrected if I tell you anything wrong.
As far as cam, I would wait until you have the actual engine and have all of your other decisions made. Then, call either JEGS or Summit, and ask about the Crane CompuCams. My dad autocrosses Corvettes, and they seem to be the hottest in the TPI's, esp. with mods. The tech guys will be able to crunch all your numbers and give you the best cam with the performance characterisitics you're looking for.
As for your rear-end, what part of the production year is your car. There were some changes made half-way through the year. Mine is a first half with the shorty-wing, and it came standard with a 3.42, because it had the V6. Also, is your 305 the stock engine, or did it originally come with a V6? Either way, check your codes so you know what you have first. As far as a 4th gen bolting up, not sure, but a 3.42 from third-gens aren't hard to find on the net and in salvage yards. An early C4 Corvette should also be a bolt up. As my dad has taken parts off of his '84 vette, I've played with them on my '88 SC, and most have bolted up just fine.
For exhaust, my dad's vette influence has made me a loyal Borla fan, esp. if money's not a bother. They make kits from cat-back or headers back. Personally, I'm going to go to a custom exhaust shop to have everything to the muffler custom bent, so I can have true duals that stay out of the way of my chassis mods (I plan on autocrossing as well). I'll use Boral mufflers and tailpipes to get that sweet rumble, though.
For your heads, how much more do you want to spend. You can get the high end valves and get send the heads to a big name shop, but I don't think you'll notice much difference if you go to a local engine shop and get a set of middle of the road valves from Summit. I guess it depends on how serious you want your performance. Some other guys might have more suggestions here.
For a driveshaft, since I'm looking at over 450 lb/ft torque, I'm sticking with the stock. I'd be too worried about the aluminum, even though I've heard they can be stronger. If money's still not an option, go with carbon fiber and be done with it.
And finally, for the tranny, I'd go with the 700r4 you could get with the LT1 if you yank it from something. It's a good solid tranny, and I've rebuilt mine and the one on my dad's vette to put stronger bands in and shift kits. The rebuilds aren't too difficult, and you can make a lot of mods to it to take advantage of your power. I'm going with a B&M shift kit and an overdrive lock-up valve so I can stay in od at high rpm (better top speed~160 flat out, I've heard). Just be nice to it--no power-braking.
Hope I helped, sorry about writing a book.</font>
Thanks
James
------------------
1988 Camaro SC Convert!
'95 Black power leather Z28 seats
MSD 6al
8.8 mm custom made wires
MSD hi po coil
MSD hi po distributer
K&N Open element 14x3
more coming soon!
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 884
Likes: 2
From: Québec
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
ok well let me get you a piece of advice,
1.the cam in the LT1 is already pretty good and it's a fairly good upgrade for any 350 ... I recommend keeping it or if you really wanna do it go for the ENERGY CRANE CAM and get a set of roller rocker 1.5.
2.the gears, 3.42 is excellent upgrade for this combo, i'm running 2.73 and it's already pretty fast ...you need to get a 28 spline axle for that because you'll break it apart(maybe not but it's a good thing to have).
3.headers from SLP aren't design for LT1 and thirdgens.if you keep your smog pump go for it but if you do it you will have to blue print it. I did it with Headman's headers, works great, runs at about 88$US
4.head porting is a good things it will incress your hp alot, get bigger valves, new valve seals,tri-angle valve job and your in business.
5.aluminium drive shaft is a good thing because it will save weight on your car, about 20 pound less and its made really stong, you can break it but it's the same for a steal drive shaft....it's a good upgrade.
6.I'm not sure I'm getting what you're saying but yes it is a very good thing to but either 4l60 or 4l60e, it's much stronger, it as the corvette servo so you can shift from d to overdrive at full open trottle.
7. there's no 7 but if you can drop the complete drivetrain go ahead you'll save yourself lot of problems.
------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
300 HP backed with a limited slip, 2.73.
Top speed reached: 150 mph
EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST
1.the cam in the LT1 is already pretty good and it's a fairly good upgrade for any 350 ... I recommend keeping it or if you really wanna do it go for the ENERGY CRANE CAM and get a set of roller rocker 1.5.
2.the gears, 3.42 is excellent upgrade for this combo, i'm running 2.73 and it's already pretty fast ...you need to get a 28 spline axle for that because you'll break it apart(maybe not but it's a good thing to have).
3.headers from SLP aren't design for LT1 and thirdgens.if you keep your smog pump go for it but if you do it you will have to blue print it. I did it with Headman's headers, works great, runs at about 88$US
4.head porting is a good things it will incress your hp alot, get bigger valves, new valve seals,tri-angle valve job and your in business.
5.aluminium drive shaft is a good thing because it will save weight on your car, about 20 pound less and its made really stong, you can break it but it's the same for a steal drive shaft....it's a good upgrade.
6.I'm not sure I'm getting what you're saying but yes it is a very good thing to but either 4l60 or 4l60e, it's much stronger, it as the corvette servo so you can shift from d to overdrive at full open trottle.
7. there's no 7 but if you can drop the complete drivetrain go ahead you'll save yourself lot of problems.
------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
300 HP backed with a limited slip, 2.73.
Top speed reached: 150 mph
EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 884
Likes: 2
From: Québec
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
forgot to tell you , if you have TBI and it's an automatic tranny well you have 2.73 gears...
------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
300 HP backed with a limited slip, 2.73.
Top speed reached: 150 mph
EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST
------------------
LT1 POWERED
HEADMANS HEADERS
300 HP backed with a limited slip, 2.73.
Top speed reached: 150 mph
EATS MUSTANGS FOR BREAKFAST
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: California
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Hey mat,
Thanks for responding. If I do the changes I was looking at with the ones you were talking about what kind of mileage do you think I am looking at? I am thinking I will actually get better mileage than what I currently have because of the opti spark, etc…
1. I heard about the roller rockers at the 1.6, but you think I need to go with the 1.5’s? Do you have a part number or anything. Like I said before I am positive I can drop it in, as I have done it before to a bronco with a 351 (BIG Pain), but Not sure on parts, especially when I see hundreds of different rockers, and pushrods… I am sure after constantly rereading the archives Ill pick it up, but it just seems everyone already knows, and I don’t lol
2. Do you think I should just pick up an entire new rear end with what you were explaining? I can pick up a 4th gen rear with the 3.42 performance gears for around 900 bucks, complete with brakes and all. I wanted to go all disc anyway. Rotors are a pain in the A$$! Since it seems thirdgens brake about 75% up front, might as well put that kind of power all the way around for the other 25%. What do you guys think?
3. I am changing out the suspension, going all Spohn, no sub frame connectors, as it is a convertible, but are there any suggestions for the front? With the engine out I would like to go through everything. Since I will also be having the car painted at the same time. The original color of the car was that *** awful blue, that just doesn’t work with a convertible, maybe it did when it was new, but someone took the spray paint and made it red
4. As far as the head porting what valves and valve seals do you suggest? Size, etc… Part numbers would be great. This is info that I am not too sure of.
5. Any part numbers? For the drive shaft? I’ll go aluminum than, since it will be a mild engine.
6. Well, I have the stock auto thirdgen trans, I will most likely pick the 4th gen auto trans up, so with the PCM I figured it would be an easier swap, and just be better all the way around.
This is what I have for now. I might someday change everything out, but we should also keep in mind that the highest pump gas in California is now 91 octane!!!! So I need to keep it to pump gas, because every time I fill up I do not want to be adding fuel enhancer.
James
------------------
1988 Camaro SC Convert!
'95 Black power leather Z28 seats
MSD 6al
8.8 mm custom made wires
MSD hi po coil
MSD hi po distributer
K&N Open element 14x3
more coming soon!
Thanks for responding. If I do the changes I was looking at with the ones you were talking about what kind of mileage do you think I am looking at? I am thinking I will actually get better mileage than what I currently have because of the opti spark, etc…
1. I heard about the roller rockers at the 1.6, but you think I need to go with the 1.5’s? Do you have a part number or anything. Like I said before I am positive I can drop it in, as I have done it before to a bronco with a 351 (BIG Pain), but Not sure on parts, especially when I see hundreds of different rockers, and pushrods… I am sure after constantly rereading the archives Ill pick it up, but it just seems everyone already knows, and I don’t lol
2. Do you think I should just pick up an entire new rear end with what you were explaining? I can pick up a 4th gen rear with the 3.42 performance gears for around 900 bucks, complete with brakes and all. I wanted to go all disc anyway. Rotors are a pain in the A$$! Since it seems thirdgens brake about 75% up front, might as well put that kind of power all the way around for the other 25%. What do you guys think?
3. I am changing out the suspension, going all Spohn, no sub frame connectors, as it is a convertible, but are there any suggestions for the front? With the engine out I would like to go through everything. Since I will also be having the car painted at the same time. The original color of the car was that *** awful blue, that just doesn’t work with a convertible, maybe it did when it was new, but someone took the spray paint and made it red
4. As far as the head porting what valves and valve seals do you suggest? Size, etc… Part numbers would be great. This is info that I am not too sure of.
5. Any part numbers? For the drive shaft? I’ll go aluminum than, since it will be a mild engine.
6. Well, I have the stock auto thirdgen trans, I will most likely pick the 4th gen auto trans up, so with the PCM I figured it would be an easier swap, and just be better all the way around.
This is what I have for now. I might someday change everything out, but we should also keep in mind that the highest pump gas in California is now 91 octane!!!! So I need to keep it to pump gas, because every time I fill up I do not want to be adding fuel enhancer.
James
------------------
1988 Camaro SC Convert!
'95 Black power leather Z28 seats
MSD 6al
8.8 mm custom made wires
MSD hi po coil
MSD hi po distributer
K&N Open element 14x3
more coming soon!
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,819
Likes: 3
From: Angleton, TX
Car: '92 RS
Ive also done this swap and what a difference it made. The first thing I picked up on is that you wont need the 58 mm throttle body, at most all you will need is the 52mm. The 58 is meant for highly modded engines pumping out lots of horsepower, the 52 is meant for milder engines like what your talking about. As far as a cam goes, sorry, I can't help you there because Im kinda in the dark about it too. I know I want to get one, just not sure what I need. The rearend is a good idea. Im waiting for my disc brake parts to come in that I got off Ebay, then Im going to get one of the Zexel Torsen units from SLP and a set of Richmond 3.42's and I'll be set. go to www.tpis.com and you will be able to find an aluminum driveshaft. I think it runs for just under $400. one thing you will definately need is a good clutch. trust me on this one. Im about to have to replace the second one in about 1 year. granted, it is a stock replacement for the LT1 but still, it sucks. Im looking at getting either a Dual friction Centerforce or maybe the McLeod unit, not sure yet. And go ahead and start saving for tires too, hehe, its quite easy to burn them down, especially with the 3.42's. If you want to spend the money and stay smog legal, I'd get the SLP's or maybe a set of the Edelbrocks. but to be honest, I dont know how well they will work with the LT1. All I know is that the Heddman's have worked great, just havent been real impressed with the y-pipe, too small. You will also need to get a stock replacement TPI fuel pump as the TBI one is puts out too low pressure.
Well, good luck on your swap when you do it, and if you ever need any help, just drop Matt or I a line as we have both done this awesome swap and have helped each other out.
------------------
-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil
-MSD 6-AL Ignition
Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra
-'95 Camaro Z28
-'88 Firebird
-'99 Ford Lightning
-'01 Camaro SS (OH YEAH BABY!!!)
-'96 Turbo Eclipse
-'99 Mustang GT
-'01 Nissan Maxima
Losses
-'01 Mustang GT
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)
-'96(?) Turbo Eclipse (d*mn good race, heavily modified)
FOR SALE: complete '87 IROC 9-bolt disc brake rearend. rebuilt calipers, powder coated axle housing, painted calipers and backing plate, all brake lines included. needs rotors and driver's side dust shield. The gears are in VERY good condition, low mileage, no signs of wear. make offer
[This message has been edited by TexasLT1 (edited November 23, 2001).]
Well, good luck on your swap when you do it, and if you ever need any help, just drop Matt or I a line as we have both done this awesome swap and have helped each other out.
------------------
-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil
-MSD 6-AL Ignition
Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra
-'95 Camaro Z28
-'88 Firebird
-'99 Ford Lightning
-'01 Camaro SS (OH YEAH BABY!!!)
-'96 Turbo Eclipse
-'99 Mustang GT
-'01 Nissan Maxima
Losses
-'01 Mustang GT
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)
-'96(?) Turbo Eclipse (d*mn good race, heavily modified)
FOR SALE: complete '87 IROC 9-bolt disc brake rearend. rebuilt calipers, powder coated axle housing, painted calipers and backing plate, all brake lines included. needs rotors and driver's side dust shield. The gears are in VERY good condition, low mileage, no signs of wear. make offer
[This message has been edited by TexasLT1 (edited November 23, 2001).]
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