Hi I have seen a local LT1 engine for $300 with all accesories but withoutthe harness do you guys think this is a good price or can I find one better somewhere else.

 

if it's complete it's a decent deal
but you will need the harness and PCM

 

Is it rebuilt or are you plaining to add more horsepower. I just bought an Lt1 and rebuilt it with upgrades it cost alot of money. If I bought a regular 350 block and spent the same amount to money on that. I would of have 150-200 more horsepower than the Lt1. You can buy the wiring harness for the mfi I've seen it in summit racing. Don't know that part number sorry. I have the same car as you. 91 rs 305 tbi. transformed it to an lt1 carbutated engine. Not having the best of luck with it at this moment. I'm thinking I should of went with a 4 bolt main 350.

 

He guy said he bought it from a salvage yard and the car had 60k and only the harness is the only thing not included.

 

Well right now I have a 350 l98 block but since I seen this on craigslist I was thinking if it would be better then what I have and for the price it is, and since you have carved lt1 can you pm me around how much you spend for all the swapping.

 

If the only thing that is missing is the harness and PCM, you would be cheaper buying a harness (f-body, b-body) and PCM than swapping over to a carb on the LT1, plus it will run better.

 

It's worth it for an S-10. PainlessWiring sells harnesses if Hawk's doesn't have any.

 

He's not lying there I can vouch for that. My car runs like crap.

 

Don't know what you guys did, but it wasn't a nightmare to rebuild my LT1, after selling the transmission off with the harness and computer for $750 from a $900 original purchace, I rebuilt the motor, couldn't have spent more than $300 total (gaskets, HV oil pump, timing chain, ect.), so thats $450 into my rebuilt LT1, spent another $250 for a complete motor with 94 harness and pcm, used the harness and pcm and kept the motor as a spare to rebuild, so you figure $700 total there (both aluminum headed motors), and then $1200 on a T56 swap. I put the motor in my car for less than $2,000 and she runs like a champ for the 3.08 gears I have. I have absolutely no complaints. $300 is not bad, and you probably can find a harness and pcm for $150ish for automatic, and $200ish for manual. F-body harness is pretty good for F-body applications, and B-body is a really good stand alone system.

 

there are 4 models of the LT1,
F-body 5.7l LT1 -Aluminum heads, 2 bolt mains
Corvette 5.7l LT1 - Aluminum heads, 4 bolt mains
B-Body (Caprice, Roadmaster, etc..) 4.3l and 5.7l Iron Heads, 2 bolt mains, both sizes look identical.
94-97 4.3 and 5.7 LT1's look the same, accessories are in different locations between the motors.
92-93 LT1's use an ECM with Memcals (same style as the 90-92 LB9 and L98 motors) and have a slightly different intake manifold, fuel rail crossover tube is at the back of the intake, vs at the front of the intake on the 94-97 LT1.

 

How would buying a LT1 be more expensive to upgrade than a SBC?

1. the intake is good for power. No mods needed at all.

2. aluminum heads are plentiful and easy to port. There are several porters out there that offer heads/cam packages that can make near 400rwhp with about $1200 total.

3. Exhaust is the same as SBC, so any SBC based exhaust system will work without any modification. I'm using the same Hooker 2055 headers and Y-Pipe on my LT1 swap as I did on my HSR'd L98.

The stock harness is easy to modify to work with a thirdgen. There is so much information out there that its sometimes harder to separate the different threads, but the knowledge is there if you know what you are searching for.

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I think an LT1 swap makes an excellent swap, certainly a Gen 3 LS swap is better. But its better for the same reasons that a LT1 swap is better. The EFI system is more flexible, the head, and intake flow is better too. Reverse cooling isn't hard to deal with at all either.


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My B-body LT1 swap is running 13.5's all day long at 102mph, and that was with 5* of knock retard thanks to valvetrain noise picked up by the sensor. I have a LT4 knock module now and the knock retard is gone but I haven't been to the track yet.

 

There's nothing at all wrong with an LT1 swap, when people start taking away from how the factory put them together (putting a carb on it and ditching the PCM) you basically have a SBC that was really not designed for a carb, you can find stock f-body or b-body harnesses on e-bay that will work just fine, same goes for the PCM's. I rebuilt my LT1 when the oil pump went out and I think I have a total of about 750 bucks in it, and that's including new valve guides.

Now, I love my LS1, but the LT1 is just as fun to drive as the 4th gen.