I had to go look up that lancer now that I got to thinking about it! Here are a the only videos I could find of the car from back when I saw it in person. The beginning of the first video IS the cars idle, just before it takes off for like the first couple seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZESPW...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwWq8...e_gdata_player

 

88gunmetalgta,

Wow...don't know if I'm looking for that kind of idle exhaust-note. LOL!

 

Subaru engine is NOT an I4 design it is horizontally oppossed.. hence the "boxer" term.... and this is why is has such a distinctive exhaust note.

 

My previous comment has been marked up for your reference. Opposed 4 bangers are still 4 bangers.

 

This would be more like what a cammed Iron Duke sounds like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL...ailpage#t=190s

Thats the SD4 Iron Duke build for the Fiero Pace car, it likely has 250hp - 320hp depending on which block its using.

 

FRMULA88,

LOL! The Subaru boxer-four has been brought up before in this thread, but it is still a sweet sounding engine.

88gunmetalgta,

Thanks for the "correction". LOL!

Thirdgen89GTA,

Ummm...that's a great sounding four-cylinder.

 

Hey guys I'm new here but after 3 pages of some people wanting to bang on the op how far has this come along. I drive a 09 cobalt Ss with full bolt ons and a tune. Stock turbo. The argument about tq and the part throttle driving is bs. I walk all over new camaros from a roll all day just making a point not bashing. For what the motor is in my car it's awesome. Now. A lsj is a great engine with loads of aftermarket support. The 2.2 the op was wanting to run cannot run high hp long. The hp and tq of the lsj is nice and no it doesn't take a huge turbo with lots of lag to make 400 hp. A lsj on a 256 will make 400 but you are going toad the turbo for a lovely tq spike. Now the lnf has a tq curve like a v8 and is lovely to drive. I make around 300 to 330 hp and around 360 tq. My car runs 12s on street tires and possible low low 12s on slicks. So a rwd car with traction and decent gearing should be able to pull a nice 12 sec pass with a bnr 2871 to hold Rpms a little longer and make almost 100 more hp. Just thought I would add my .02 In this as I hate to see people bash another mans idea to be different. I was actually planning a fully built lsj turbo in my 91 rs.

 

Holy no return key first post batman. Try mixing your posts up with some paragraphs and commas. I can barely understand your post. Think of paragraphs as "taking a breath" when talking. You can't simply keep talking forever.

As for a LNF ecotec making V8 like torque? yes, but only while on boost. No turbo car is always on-boost unless it has an anti-lag system. The OP knows this and expects a little lag.

Truthfully if the interiors in the Cobalt SS' weren't so cheap I'd consider one. I hate the interior no matter how much I like a SS/TC Cobalt's handling and performance. I needed a daily driver, not another Weekend toy.

 

Sorry for the long post... But the stock turbo on the lnf has no lag at all. Before the tune I think full spool is 2100. Now with tune it's 3000 and ramped until 4k. I was just stating that after the 3 pages I read was just crazy lol.

 

Having seen Dyno sheets of SS/TC Cobalts, yes there is lag. This thread however is not the place for a discussion on the definition of Turbo Lag.

 

Oh and my cobalt is my Daily driver. I have no complaints. It's no different from anything else Chevy has out. There all plastic

 

Was just trying to put out a little info on the ecotec engines since I own one and help with building them but I'll leave that alone then.

 

Richards91rs,

Welcome to the party. Thankfully, most of the bashing has turned into the original bashers just ignoring me and leaving me to my insanity.

The current combination for the engine is a 2.4L (LE5) block and girdle, the stock 2.2L (L61) crankshaft, Eagle forged 2.2L (L61) connecting-rods, and custom 2.2L (L61) spec pistons widened to fit the 88mm bore of the 2.4L (LE5) cylinder-bores. All of that will be topped off with a 2.2L (L61) cylinder-head with Supertech 78# valvesprings, valves from an LSJ for better reaction to heat, and some porting and polishing.

The reasons for this ODD set-up are:
A) More displacement. About 2.3L all said and done.
B) No electronic, drive-by-wire, throttle-body.
C) No VVT or direct-injection to cause me minor tuning headaches.
D) Less cost for both a 2.2L (L61) engine and a 2.4L (LE5) engine for less than half the price of just one LSJ or LNF engine.

I will always expect some kind of turbo-lag when running only a turbocharger. It might not be much, but it will be there. If I add a supercharger, much later on, then I won't see turbo-lag.

The project currently waits on me to save up enough money for a Tremec TKO-500. However, said transmission should be in my grubby little hands by the end of the month, at the latest.

After that, connect the transmission to the motor, and lower it into the engine-bay so I can get some custom motor-mounts fabricated.

After that, we'll see...

 

I'm not ignoring you, I just haven't said anything.



I've been checking to see the engine in the bay... impatiently...

 

Can't wait to see this. I was actually going to drop a 800 hp stroked lsj in mine. Still daily driveable but yet nasty when you want it. And how many people would suspect it.

 

Six_Shooter,


LOL! I wouldn't lump you into the category of bashers

And, you're not the only one impatient.

Richards91rs,

I don't know how streetable an 800hp LSJ would be. You'd have to go turbo at the very least to get there. Twin-charging will only take you so far. Running sequential turbochargers would probably get you there while keeping the powerband wider.

How do you plan to accomplish this?

 

UPDATE:

Money for the TKO-500 currently moving into my PayPal. Should be done by early next week. Will order the transmission as soon as funds hit my PayPal...

 

Ok the twin charging idea is old news zzp tried it and it was crap. Another member on CSS.net tried it and cracked sleeves. Not a good idea. Once again not bashing anyone or idea it just isn't a good thing to do.

Now for the lsj. Zzp built a supposed budget build on a lsj. Stroked all forged bottom end and just cams and valve springs for the top end. Even though I seen the dyno video and sheet idk what to think about it. But the motor made almost 900 hp on a big single turbo and with a pretty good power curve. But if you would like to know more about what can be done or any more ideas. Look up James rakes on Facebook. He is the only person who will ever tune my car or touch it besides me. He knows about as much if not more than Chevrolet does lol

 

Richards91rs,

I remember ZZP used to sell the twin-charging kit, but now they don't and they're fans of just a bigger turbo. Up to the 450whp, I have to agree with them. The turbo they're using at that power level is still a T3 turbine and housing with a 0.55 A/R. Hell, most turbo manufacturers suggest a 0.63 A/R T3 housing with a 2.0L engine. Spool up shouldn't be an issue. The turbine and turbine housing being too small has a bigger chance of being the next issue...

The only twin-charged car that I've heard of that was pretty good was an insane Lotus Elise, but that had an alcohol-injection set-up that started pumping when the boost hit a certain level. Maybe, ZZP should have tried that...

I know ZZP has made that much power with a single turbo, and, yes, the power curve on the dyno does look pretty good. However, I'd have to try and drive it on the street before I made my final judgement. Personally, I doubt that would be fun on the street.

But, hey, I've been wrong before...

 

UPDATE:

I just ordered the transmission a couple minutes ago.

 

and?

 

Alright!

 

still watching for updates, anxious to see some progress!

 

Just got to wait for it to ship and get here. Says it should ship today, but I won't take that for granted.

Hoping it will be here some time next week...

I'll supply updates as I learn more.

 

I seriously want to know what the final total weight is gonna be for this thing. My 92 RS has a cast iron 454 and a T5. It has a gutted interior, full tubular BMR k member, front suspension, and no passenger seat. It came out to 3080 lbs with me in it and a full tank of gas.

Don't take me the wrong way but what you said here doesn't specify why the dual charge setup "was crap". Cracked sleeves can also be caused by a lot of different things like running too much boost, cheap sleeves (very possible), overheating, etc, etc, etc.

 

The Devastator,

I'm also very curious what the final weight of this car will be. I've had people shoot out numbers ranging from 2,400-3,200lbs. I honestly don't know what it will weigh. My guess is 2,600-3,000lbs.

This is what I'll have:

- Rhino-lined interior
- Manual windows, locks, no A/C
- Spohn tubular K-member and coil-over suspension at all four corners
- Fiberglass hood with pin front
- Notchback conversion
- Stock rear seats
- Lightweight bucket seats up front
- And, of course, all-aluminum 4-cylinder engine with a 5-speed manual TKO-500 transmission

When the car is done, I'll have it weighed at least three times on three different scales, under the same conditions.

As long as it's less than 3,000lbs., it'll be FUN.

Yeah, the twin-charging is not a crappy set-up. The stock sleeves on Ecotec's are being pushed at that power level with only a turbocharger. This is mostly because of the Ecotec being an "open-deck" block. ZZP also does a girdle for the Ecotec block that turns it into a "semi-closed-deck" block, making it a lot stronger, even with the stock sleeves. I still consider it an option...

 

The transmission shipped last night, and they're saying I'll have it by TOMORROW.

Something just might happen this weekend...

 

A REAL UPDATE:

The transmission is here.



And, I wasted no time.



An hour after I got my hands on it, I have it to this point.



My friends and I tried hoisting it up to at least get it into the engine-bay, but the Chinese piece-of-**** engine-hoist I have actually started to BEND! WTF?!?! We're talking something that me, a gimp, and one of my friends were able to easily pick up!

Sooo...I got a find a quality hoist tomorrow, first.

Hopefully, all my loyal followers consider this some real progress.

CHEERS!

 

man i hate to tell you this but someone stole half of that motor....

 

LOL! Yeah, it's all in the garage. Just easier to work with, this way.

 

HA you totally missed the joke there.... im not mad at you, just dissapointed...

 

LOL!

I get it, now. You have every right to be disappointed.

 

lol mcfly

looks good man...so do you have everything you need now to get it in the car and done?

 

Well, a quality engine-hoist would be nice. My friends and I could probably man-handle the engine and transmission into the engine-bay.

Otherwise, just got to find out how to mount it.

 

Which trans crossmember are you using again?

I'm anxiously awaiting the custom motor mounts...

 

sweet!


If you were a little closer i'd just bring my lift over

 

oh just take him the lift what else do you have to do this weekend, your car is way closer to the road than his lol

 

KrisW,

I'm using the this crossmember:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...nsmission.html

Yeah, the motor mounts might take some time, if the Solstice mounts don't work. Sadly, I'm without welding skills.

DeathStarr89,

LOL! It's only a couple hours.

BUT, if you could come, could you bring your welder, too, maybe...?

J/K I'm not asking you to come. But, if you were to offer...

Pillsbry10,

LOL! Yeah, actually, how long it's taken his car to get finished kinda makes me feel better about how long it's taken my project.

Your car, too, Pills...

LOL! I kid! I kid...

 

what kind of a engine hoist do you have I bent mine but I had a duramax fully dressed and allison trans loaded I had to slide the bar back to lift it

 

That crossmember is a good one, so you're set!

as for the welding skills, you just need to learn it, put it on your list. Fabrication is a must with the way your brain works and welding is a key tool in that trade.

For now though, you can just buy some little scrap steel plates and then mark them and bolt them together to mock up the motor mounts. Once you get the height and side to side figured out, and they are bolted up, then you take your monstrosities to the machine shop and have them make you a one piece.

Too easy!

 

lol i started on my car 10 years ago... started the motor swap and turbo at least 5 years maybe 6 ago ha ha, so take your time

 

lunati397,

It's just a Larin brand engine-hoist I bought from Farm & Fleet. Chinese ****. Can't even hold up 250-300lbs, and it's rated for a two tons.

KrisW,

Oh, I totally agree that I have to learn how to weld, especially with all the crazy ideas that go through my brain. LOL!

It's a situation I'll rectify, someday...

Pillsbry10,

I hope my project does not take as long, but who knows...

 

UPDATE:

Well, I decided to not wait for a new hoist, and my friends agreed to help me man-handle the engine and transmission into the engine-bay.


And, here is the result.











Doesn't it look tiny in there?!


Well, it's not entirely in there. The transmission is still not mounted upon the crossmember. It still needs to go back about another 1/2" and the front of the engine needs to go down about 1-2" to be level.


There are a few obstacles to this happening.


The stock K-member, first of all.


The oil-pan will not clear the K-member.





And, the K-member also blocks the oil drain-plug.





Now, I have a legitimate excuse to acquire a Spohn tubular K-member.


Now, unfortunately, the firewall will need to undergo some surgery.


The oil filter compartment hits the firewall.





And, the thermostat housing, and part of the cooling system, would interfere with the firewall, here.





So, it looks like my tax-refund will be going towards a Spohn tubular K-member and a rotary tool with some metal-cutting discs.


Until then, this will have to do...




ENJOY!

 

Well, it fits, and it sounds like you have a plan for what doesn't work perfectly. Looking good, should be something different for cruise night

 

Have you given any thought to trying to achieve perfect 50/50 weight balance? It would probably be possible by pushing the engine a little further back into the firewall, since you have to cut it anyway

 

while that would be nice, would it not be easier to just move it forward a bit instead of hacking on the firewall?

 

now find a midget mechanic to sit in the engine bay while driving and you can have a self repairing car lol

once its in and cleaned up I think its going to look good and definately be different

as for 50 50 you will be very close

 

Before you go cutting up the firewall and yanking out the k-member, I have a couple of thoughts and questions.

1. Until you put the transmission on the crossmember (have you tried yet?) don't count out the possibility that you might be tight on the firewall but not rub.

2. Instead of cutting the firewall up, mark those "close" spots and smack them with a 10lb sledgehammer, once or twice... clearance can be made in different ways.

3. What oil pan are you using? Are you using the Saturn Sky rear wheel drive pan? If you are, maybe you should mark the crossmember where it hits, cut out the sections that do hit, and then trailer the car with no engine in it to the welding shop and just have them box in the sections that you removed for clearance. I've seen guys do this with LS swaps when the keep the AC compressor low on the right hand side.

Just thoughts!

I think your little engine looks fine in there. I had an 85 Iron Duke 'bird once and that engine looked like more of an orphan than yours does hahahah.

Good work so far!

 

If he was going the easy route, there'd be a 350 sitting there. That looks like a lot of clearance to be made with a BFH, so it's necessary to cut and weld anyway. I bet it wouldn't take that much of a doghouse to tuck it under there nice.

And since when is fabrication called hacking? Man, my car is a total hack-job in that case. Just wait til you see what kind of a hacks I have planned for this winter! Just a hint, it involves 325/xx tires tucked nicely under the fender wells with rims that even have a decent lip on them!

 

88gunmetalgta,

LOL! I'd prefer to not to have to cut anything. I believe I've figured out the issue...and, I'll probably be really close to 50/50, like luntai397 mentioned.

Pillsbry10,

That has been suggested by some of the folks on EcotecForum.com, but I don't think it's necessary anymore...

KrisW,

1) The transmission now IS resting on the transmission crossmember, and, you're right, a lot of things are close, but not rubbing.

2) This won't be necessary, either.

3) All Ecotec oil-pans are the same, whether they be RWD or FWD. No help there. The stock crossmember probably could be cut and boxed, a lot like what the 3x00 60* V6 swap guys do, but I'm pretty set on the tubular K-member. Too many advantages...

Good thoughts, man, and thank you for voicing them. LOL! Well, I guess the Ecotec is a little bigger than an Iron Duke, being DOHC and all.

UPDATE:

Okay, so the oil-pan was keeping the engine from going down about four inches, which also prevented the engine from sliding back about another inch. Sooo...I removed the oil-pan. The engine lowered about 4 inches, and slid back enough to rest on the transmission crossmember.



I, now, have enough clearance for everything that will behind the cylinder-head. This is the LE5 cylinder-head, the one I'm NOT using. The L61 cylinder-head I have has an EGR protrusion on the back of the cylinder-head, but I can cut that off or get a cylinder-head that does not have an EGR protrusion. However, the LE5 cylinder-head is an almost exact substitute for an L61 cylinder-head that does not have the EGR protrusion.



Even the thermostat housing, now on the passenger-side, near the rear of the cylinder-head, and all it's hoses clear the firewall.





Even the coolant inlet-hose, that is supposed to go behind the cylinder-head before turning back towards the front of the car and the radiator, fits between the cylinder-head and the firewall.



You can also see the oil-filter compartment that is no longer bashing into the firewall.



I will be looking for a way to reroute that hose so it doesn't have to go behind the cylinder-head, though.

Also, the stock plastic intake-manifold also fits and looks as if it will clear the brake-booster.



I probably won't be using this stock plastic intake-manifold, becuase I doubt it would hold up to the boost levels I'll probably be pushing.

And, speaking of boost, I threw the turbo manifold on there, too, for a taste of things to come.



Plenty of room for a turbocharger, huh?

Well, that's about if for a little while. Next step will be to get a Spohn tubular K-member, and finish up all the mounting.

I am happy that I won't need to cut up anything to get it in there.

And, as for "perfect 50/50 weight distribution", I'm sure I'll be REEEAAALLY CLOSE.

CHEERS!