I would respectfully disagree with the machinist - unless he did a complete sonic check of the cylinder walls to back that up (not sure what "hard" has to do with it, though). Taking a factory 400 block .030" over thins out the walls, and the added stroke will only increase the wall stresses where the Hard Blok would be doing its thing. Of course, this should have been done before the final hone, but if you plan on running this engine hard, it should have been at least street filled.

From the photos you posted, it doesn't appear that the steam holes were drilled in the heads. I know there are plenty of people who say they didn't drill them and their 400 is doing just fine, but there is no reason NOT to drill the holes. If you didn't, I'd highly recommend you pull the heads and drill them.

 

Trust me the steam holes are there I sweated through everyone of the holes as I didn't want to mess up my $1600 heads.

Well I am trusting the guy that build this motor, he has been building motors all most as long as I have been alive. This is not a race motor and may or may not ever see a drag strip. The block was checked and rechecked. If it was anyone else building this motor I wouldn't be able to sleep at night and its as much his baby as it is mine.

 

If it was thoroughly checked and it passed your machinist's inspection, you will be fine. As long as he knows what he is doing ofcourse and sounds like it. I know guys running 2 times as much power as you expect to make on factory 400's for few years before block failed. Its NOT ideal but can work depending on the application

 

A few questions if you dont mind.


1)What size heads?
2)What size headers?
3)What cam and compression?
4)And what rwhp rwtq are u looking at achieving?

Thanks.

 

If you are talking to me, we all ready had this discussion in this thread.

You sold me the heads....... lol

 

Haha......

 

Say it again in a deeper huskier tone.


lol

 

Small update I got all the suspension hooked up under the front end and finished the wiring. Hooked up the EBL Flash and all the sensors were talking to the ECM.





Also picked up a new radiator to make the cooling better, got LT1 fan setup to install too.

 

Awesome build!!! Where did you get valve covers? Also where did you get the EBL system and do they make a specific kit for TPI?

 

Yes they do, go to http://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_Flash.php read its all there. The valve covers I got off ebay but they are made in the USA. I can get you the part number if you want it.

 

I finally got the y pipe built it turned out pretty good.

 

That's a beautiful looking setup! I'm building something similar. It is a Dart SHP 400 block with AFR210s, my cam is a 240/245@50 .594 lift and I'm currently negotiating on an FI system.

I really like your pulley system, what are the pulleys and brackets you are using?

 

Nice y pipe! What size tubing did you use?

 

Austin (BIG_MODS) Hand made the pulley setup so it is a one off setup. I bought it off the classifies on here.

The Y pipe is 2.5 pipe into 3 merge which will hook into my 3 inch Magnaflow cat-back. I know some will say its too small for a big inch motor like this but this is not a super aggressive cam so after I get it tuned and on the road I can revisit things like the stock intake Y and the exhaust and change whats needs attention.

 

I got the heater core hooked up and in a much better configuration then stock. I found the idea on a corvette forum and thought I would pass it on.

Here is the part.





This is how it turned out. I like it a lot better then the stock setup.

 

Welded in O2 sensor bungs and put 3 coats of VHT Header paint on the Y pipe. My list is getting smaller I am only days from firing this thing up. It will have to wait till after my trip to Bristol Tenn. this weekend.














It doesn't look like it in the pics but the lowest part of the Y is a good 1/2 inch higher then the collector flanges.

 

any updates??????????????????

 

Yes it runs, I need to update and got video to post too. My work got busy and life too. Stay tuned.

 

Ok here is the 3rd startup after getting things setup. Don't mind the noise after this we adusted the valve train and cam bearing stop and it is all quiet now. Still got to adjust the idle tune a little more but it is coming along.

 

I did run into a issue with the First Injection intake. I am going to wait to talk much about it till I see how they handle it, but the intake is leaking antifreeze near the water neck thru a casting flaw. They are going to swap me out for a new one but I really am not looking forward to taking the motor apart again....... oh well

 

Since the EBL is a reworked programmable stock computer, do you use the stock knock sensor? Will it work with a larger bore? I know the 350 and 305 have different knock sensors since they knock at different frequencies. How does it work?

 

Well other then I put in a new knock sensor and moved it to the drivers side because of my long tubes I haven't noticed and negative effects. I am early on with tuning and haven't got it on the road yet only idling.

 

Nice build. Subscribed.

 

I have a FIRST brand new in box if anybody is interested. Relatively cheap too. Vortec pattern. Sorry to jump in but figured someone may have some interest. PM me if interested.

Just thinking u can use a vortec ecm and leave behind the sfi and go to mpfi. Easier to get feedback and way faster comm rates.

 

Going to go ahead and sub to this. Very interested in this build, Ive got a 406 in my car that has a first injection setup on the way along with dyno don headers. Future plans are some AFR 210s, AFR 195S, or Jegs 195s along with a cam swap and other upgrades. Any more updates on how its running? I am also using EBL Flash so if you need any help with basic stuff I can try to help, I have only had it since last fall so I am by no means an expert.

 

I am waiting on FIRST to tell me to send my intake in because I am in need of a replacement. ( warranty). The idle is there tune wise. With FIRST retooling its make the whole project be on hold.

 

Do you I know if they have any parts available at all aside from the intakes themselves? Like the side cover, throttle cable mount, bolts, gaskets?

 

I would call them up I am not sure if they have anything new or not.

http://www.firstfuelinjection.com/

 

im running a first setup on my forged 355 tpi..... I like the intake alot.... when I did the swap 2 years ago I had to machine the intake because it didn't sit flush on the block and the throttlebody was giving me fits so I had a adapter plate made to accept the stock type throttlebody.... I wonder how the FIRST setup would run on a 421

 

Well I bought your 76mm throttle body from you, it works just fine on the motor so far. Small update. 1 step forward 3 steps back. Pulled intake to send out to FIRST for warranty replacement. Also pulled my transmission to adjust the shim spacing on the slave cylinder. So after I get my new intake this thing will be ready for the road.

 

Great thread. Subscribed.

 

How much u want for the first intake setup

 

This is a really nice build and you’re going to absolutely love the power band this thing is going to make. I think the HP and TQ estimates are spot on,,, and I’ll throw in it will probably make over 500lb/ft from as low as 2800 to almost 5800 rpm. That is assuming you run at least a 3” Y to a single 4” muffler,,,, or dual 3” exhaust pipes. Once you get it rolling,, if you feel a bit of a power drop in the 3700 – 4100 rpm range,,, it’s probably that single 3” exhaust. It could easily cause a 35-40 lb/ft dip in that range,, not to mention taking 15 or so HP off the top.

We definitely have similar likes,,,, I’ve finally started back on my siamesed runner FIRST project, which will top off a very similar engine to yours. It’s going in a 1985 Monte Carlo SS,, but it has the same wheels you’re running – lol.

 

Nice build. I think Ill estimate the torque at the crank to be at least close to 600 or more. Hp should fall right around 475 crank. Those long tubes will definatly make a ton of torque. Any updates?

 

The whole intake system is at FIRST in Wisconsin. He is replacing my defective intake base and making sure everything fits the new base. Hopefully I will see everything at my door this coming week. Playing the waiting game..........

 

Subscribed!

 

I got my replacement intake in the mail from FIRST injection. Thanks again to Ken for being a stand up guy and replacing the intake after it failed.

 

Any more updates after you got your replacement intake?

 

Yes. Sorry I am being slow. I had another set back and had to order a tilton slave setup as the stock slave was not moving enough fluid. Got to drive it for the first time this past weekend and now I am trying to get it tuned enough to park in my garage before michigan winter gets here. Tuning with the EBL Flash has been a learning curve but the tune is getting better every time.

I need to get a updated pic on here as I got everything hooked up now and she is road worthy.

 

Is there anyway you could get a picture up of how you hooked up the throttle cable? Getting ready to bolt my intake on and I noticed I might be missing something.

 

You are missing the part to hook it up. let me see if I can find you a pic and a part #. need to get it from summit or jegs.

 

you need this to get it to hook up.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8018/overview/

 

For some reason this video doesn't work?
I was hoping to see it run!

Any updates?!
I'm starting down the road in my C3 of installing one of these manifolds on my 406 and the info in this thread is invaluable.
I can't wait to see the finished product!
Elm

 

Well its snowing up here in michigan so its been put to sleep I'm my garage till spring. It idles so so and the tune was good enough to drive it home safely. I will check into the video and see why its not working. Next job is to upgrade the fuel pump, I think I am running out of fuel above 3500 RPM.

 

Yeah, just got in from plowing here in Northern Illinois. Looks like the toys are gonna be tucked in for the next 4 months or so...
But that gives me time to plan what and how I want to execute this upgrade!
Elm

 

Post 43 pictures look like a LT T56 and bell, and you using a QuarterMaster slave (ala LS1) to work with a push style clutch.

Yet, in post 89 you talk about using a Tilton slave in place of the stock slave... which implies you are back to an LT style pull clutch.

What did you end up using for your clutch/T56 combo?
Clutch = pull? push? push dual disc?
T56 input/bellhousing = LT or LS?
Hydraulics = stock or Tilton pull w/ fork? stock or aftermarket concentric push?

Thanks!

 

Subbed!

 

That is a Quarter Master 721100. It can be used on anything which I used on my ram dual disk push style clutch. I am not totally sure what the clutch was spec for T5 comes to mind. I will have to get the number to be for sure as it was a total kit flywheel and everything.

You are right its for a LT1 setup but its just so it has the right angle for the firewall. It too can be used on anything as long as you do your math right on the measurements it will all bolt together. Most don't go this route as it is not cheap.

 

Enjoy!

 

Any plans for a dyno session for that beast? It would be interesting to see what it puts at the wheels.