82 camaro lg4. I swapped my carbed 305 with a 350 i built. Theres a connector with yellow and black wires going to it that doesnt have a home. From what i can find that should be to the coolant temp sensor. Its been so long since i removed the 305 that i dont remember a sensor being on the manifold or the thermostat housing. I bought a new water neck but didnt get one with a port for a sensor. If that connector is suppose to go a sensor should i buy a new water neck to put the sensor there? If not what else should that connector go to?

 

I'm afraid it's been awhile since I pulled my LG4, so I don't recall the wire colors for the CTS. However, I do remember it went in the thermostat housing. And, there was a TVS in the housing as well.

 

Not sure I've ever seen an aftermarket thermostat housing with the ports. Doesn't mean the don't exist, I just haven't seen them.

If you can't find one, I'm sure I have a couple of factory housings around somewhere I'm not using anymore.

 

Whats a TVS? Could you tell me what sensors i would need. I replaced the carb with an edelbrock 1406. Shouldnt all the connectors to that be useless? I bought headers without the o2 port. Do i need my o2 sensor if i have non computer controlled carb?

 

As long as you have a sensor for coolant that goes to the gauge, any other sensor for ecm purposes would be useless for carbed conversion

Dash gauge usually gets its info from a head mounted sensor, but i guess it could be anywhere you can fit the sensor

Dont need the narrowband o2 unless you wanted to hook it up to a separate gauge to monitor cruise air fuel ratios. Narrow band targets 14.7 to 1 which is nice for cruise. Wot can be somewhat ballparked if you read o2 sensor milivolts during a wot pull. Target 850-900 mv for approx 12.7-13.2 air fuel

 

Awesome. Thanks guys. I have the head mounted sensor already in place. Since none of those other sensors are being used is there one that would already have a battery operated 12v source i could splice off of for the carb?

 

Any of the sensor lines that would have voltage would likely get it from ecm power supply and not sure its 12 volt. If ecm is gone then it wont have voltage unless its tied into another place.

Fuel pump or fan relay is a good source for 12v

 

Both my fan and FP are mechanical.

 

You're looking to power the electric choke? Use the choke heater wire that powered the choke on the ccc-carb. It should come out of the engine harness.

Without the ECM you can do away with the ECM harness altogether. Just pull it out through the passenger side fender as a unit. Keep you from trying to cipher which connectors you still need.

 

That would have been good information to have up front.

 

Five7kid- I didnt put it in there because my original question was just about the coolant sensor. I see now how that info could have helped before hand but at the time i was uneducated.

Naf-you said without ecm. Does that mean that since i replaced my quadrajet with the edl1406 that i no longer require the ecm? Was the ecm's only purpose in my lg4 to control the carb?

It would seem im still uneducated

 

It not only controlled the carb's mixture but the timing in the electronic distributor, EGR, AIR system, throttle bump solenoid (and lockup for automatics). Pull it all out and replace the dist with a standard, mechanical HEI and you'll be fine.

The ccc-qjet system is still the best for a mild performance, street setup IMO, but the pieces/parts are getting harder to come by-especially good qjet cores. You'll miss the benefits of EGR and the self-tuning capabilities of the ccc-qjet, a bit of a step backwards.

 

Maybe this is again a bad time to list my upgrades but would you consider 224/230 @ 50 cam w/ double roller timing chain. Dart aluminum 72cc chamber/200cc runner heads. Edelbrock dual plane rpm air gap intake. Edelbrock 1406 4 barrell 600cfm carb a mild build? I know itll be no where near some of these guys on here but i was hoping to atleast be out of the mild build catagory.

 

Also hedman headers and y pipe along with flowmaster 3" catback.

 

Thats a step above mild imo. Pretty good street strip combo. I would have done bigger carb tho

 

Picked up the carb still in the box for $200. Eventually i will upgrade but ive gotten to the point i want to make sure it will run before dumping more money into it. (My first engine build)

Theres an accel HEI super coil 140003 in it that was there when i bought the car. Im assuming thats not a mech givin the connector running to it from the ecm (Which answered my next question bought the ecm harness) that said. Do i need a whole new dizzy or can i just buy the cap part?

 

Whole new dizzy. One with the vacuum advance can on the side and mechanical advance springs inside (the computer controlled one does not have either). Double check yours though as it may have been swapped already. You should be able to re-use that coil.

 

Something like the MSD Ignition 8362? Its mechanical and vacuum advance off of summit.

 

That would work fine.

 

Awesome. Thanks everyone.

 

Turns out im not done. I got the mechanical/vacume advanced distributor. If its not computer controlled why is there a connector on it. I understand the one inboard of the dizzy but theres one that has an open connector outboard of the dizzy. I have a connector that could go to it. Is there suppose to be a connector to it along with the one that connects the top to bottom? Also i just run a vac line straight from the distributor to the carb correct?

 

Are you referring to the two wires that connect to the coil on cap? Outboard of the connector from the base to the cap? One is the 12V feed and the other is the tach driver. Both should come out of your engine harness.

 

Yes thats what i am talking about. Is it one 2-wire connector or is it two 1-wire connectors?

 

Two one wire connectors. Each will have a slot on one side so it only fits one way.