I have some free time, so I figured I'd make a build thread.

Dart SHP 427 SBC
Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft
Eagle H-Beam connecting rods
Mahle forged high performance aluminum pistons
AFR 220 Heads (65cc)
Hydraulic roller cam: Duration @ .050" Lift: 242/248. Lift: .576/.600. 112LSA.
HSR Intake
10:5:1 Compression


Dart SHP 427 SBC


Parts:



Hooker 2210's before:


After:


Painted:


Cam install:


Heads installed along with Morel lifters:


Oil pan/pump on. CC's Pro Magnum rocker arms on:


Ready to drop in:


L98 and 700R4 are out. Just ordered a rebuild kit and torque convertor from Dana (pro-built automatics).

 

SUBSCRIBED! keep up the good work!

 

...

 

Did you keep the same heads and intake?

 

My old heads were 195's. I have 220's on the new engine. I am using the HSR from the L98.

 

Subscribed

 

subscribed.

 

Nice clean and STRONG setup!

 

Thanks guys!

Since the engine and transmission are out. I figure I might as well get one of these:

 

Can't blame you for that!

 

subscribed

 

I'm only here for those pools.

 

Well, pretty much completed the engine today. Threw a header on to see how it looks:



Ran into an issue though. Not enough room to plug in the knock sensor connector. Any ideas?

 

Try the other side?

 

Guess I'll have to and hope I don't run into the same issue. But that would also include cutting and extending the wire to the other side correct? I don't even know what gage wire to buy. Electrical stuff is my absolute weakness. I stay away from it if possible. Lol.

 

Dont reallly need it haha if you tune plugs but perhaps you can mod the connector to attach from side instead?

 

Hmm I wonder if that's possible. I'll
give it a look later.

 

Yep. Just move it to the other side and extend the wire.

Been there,done that a few times.

Engine looks great! A few of my friends keep trying to talk me into a stealthram and over 800rwhp, LOL

 

You should do it! . I'd like to put low 600's to the wheels with this engine. But I have a feeling it will be in the 500's.

 

You may need a bigger cam and maybe more head for 600 at the tires. Making 500's is no joke for a n/a motor. This motor should make lower 500's as that is around 600 hp crank

 

A lot of the SHP 427 builds I've seen that were 650fwhp+ all had solid rollers and much more lift. I'd be happy with low 500's. Any guesses on 1/4 and trap speed?

 

Did you have to clearance that block at all? What stroke are you running? How much stroke do you think it can run?

Are you running a normal base circle cam?

GREAT build.

 

Not sure what your car weighs but if its in the 3450-3500 lb range with you inside, 500 whp should get you 10 secs and close to 130 mph

 

I didn't have to clearance the block. I'm running a 4" stroke. I think Dart recommends 3.750 max. But plenty of people are using 3.875 - 4" stroke. Comp cams claimed if I wanted a hydraulic roller they couldn't go down to a .900 base circle camshaft. Mine is 1.000”. The engine does have extra clearance rods which I'm sure helps me not have interference issues.

 

Wow 4"!!

Thanks!

 

Awesome!!

 

Those hookers usually drop in nicely AS you are lowering the engine. With the tubular K member, you solved a lot of fitment problems. Those 2210's touch the factory A arms and K member in a few spots, requiring clearancing.

Goodluck! Looks stout! 10.70's at 130mph all day with a good converter/tires.

 

Not much of an update. Just cleaning the engine bay where I couldn't reach with the engine in there. Going to start installing my UMI K-member & A-arms this weekend. My convertor came in the mail. Just waiting on my rebuild kit from Probuilt Automatics.

 

Finally got my rebuild kit from Dana last week:


Some elbow grease:


Back from the shop. They cleaned it up way better than I could and then painted it. This was what I was waiting on. Shouldn't be long before I have her running:


The shop was like "You broke that trans huh?". I was like no? It started slipping on the 2-3 WOT shift after the H/C/I install. But other than that it was fine. Then they showed me this they pulled out of my trans:


Yikes, either I was very lucky. Or that broke when I pulled it into the garage to start the engine swap. I doubt it would be drivable if that sunshell was broke like that.

 

Old K-member out:


New K-Member in with transmission:


Ready to go in:


Engine and transmission in (Next time they both go in together, what a pain).


Only issue I have is I removed ball joints. Dropped a arms, dropped old k member. Put new k member in, attached a arms, put springs in, and put my ball joints back in. And now my front tires are out of wack. With the wheels straight, my passenger side tire kicks out to the left. Camber looks way off. I didn't touch any tie-rods...etc Just the ball joints?

 

All done. Just needs coolant and transmission fluid tomorrow. I'll clean up the wires after I get her running.

 

Lookin' Good!

 

You've got a great car! Post some videos when you get her up and running. I really would like to see how fast your car goes now with your new motor.

 

I would subscribe twice if I could. Wow what a phenomenal job! Can't wait to see more.

 

Thanks guys. In the process I had to take my alternator apart. Now it hums loudly when the ignition is on. I don't feel comfortable starting it with it on. So tomorrow I'm going to replace the alternator and hopefully fire it up. I'll be sure to take vids.

 

Love it!

 

Where'd you pick those valve covers up from? They look nice. I'm pretty sure those are $275 or so, right? I really want to get a set and do a few modifications to them to really make them "pop".

 

Well it started pretty easily. Dad was happy


Idle and rev:



Only issues I'm having is if I set the base timing to 6 it won't run. 10 runs ok. 15 it likes and idles nice. I'm not running the stock chip, and the chip I'm using from my h/c/i L98 has quite a bit of idle timing advance. And my new fan switch appears to be turning on way to early. Last time I checked my temp gauge was accurate. But if that's my only complaints I'll consider myself lucky.



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-141-921/overview/

If you're running the stock serpentine system you're going to have to modify the valve cover or alternator.

 

IROCthe5.7L how much power and torque do you think your 427 engine is making?

 

I predict high 500's to mid 600 flywheel with equally as much torque. These motors are monsters when built right like this.

 

Subscribed

 

I agree with Delta. Should be lower 500's to the wheels. Next on the list is to get rid of that stock throttle body and go bigger.

 

That cam is big enough and theres enough cylinder volume that it likely wont run with 6-10 deg base timing. My big cam 400 is the same way. It loves idle advance and needed base timing to be set closer to 12-13 deg and no lower. Else it wouldnt start, or had a very rough idle. Give it what it wants and change base value in bin

 

Thanks for the advice. Will do!

 

Thats great! You are going to surprise a lot of LS owners who think old school small and big blocks can't keep up with them.

 

Well it moves. That's a start-lol

 

3" True duals on:

 

Well I finally got all the bugs worked out just in time to put it away for the year Runs pretty good with a stock throttle body and a tune from my 350. Hoping with a 58mm TB and some more fuel at WOT to have it run even better.

 

Sounds good i am eager to see how this setup runs once all tuned up

 

Sounds super healthy!