Hey everyone thanks for taking time to stop here and see what I have to complain about lol I have been working on cars off and on for a good part of my life, I worked on diesels in the Marines for a while so I am mechanically inclined. I'll cut to the chase. I have a 1984 Z28 with a 305/700R4 tranny with a shift kit installed. I want to purchase a 383 stroker kit and there are some questions I need to answer before I buy the kit. I am having the 350 block bored out .30 over 4 bolt main, I have a crane cam (oversized) and I know that's more sound than power unless I pair it correctly. I guess my question are towards the specifics of the 383 kit.
THIS IS WHAT COMES WITH THE KIT.

• Moly Piston Rings
• Speed Pro Hypereutectic style Pistons
• Clevite77 Rod Bearings
• Clevite77 Main Bearings
• Clevite77 Cam Bearings
• Melling high volume style Oil Pump
• Elgin performance style Camshaft
• Cloyes true roller style Timing Components
• Melling Frost Plugs
• Sealed Power/Felpro Gasket Set

Main bearings, pistons, rings, and rod bearings should all be .30 correct?
Also the camshaft I have in the kit there are quite a few options and I do not know what the differences are and what I should be going towards. The options are:


1200-4200rpm/260dur/.427 lift 110 lobe sep
1600-4600rpm/280dur/.443 lift 110 lobe sep
2000-5000rpm/284dur/.458 lift 110 lobe sep
2200-5200rpm/286dur/.480 lift 112 lobe sep
300-6500rpm/302dur/.500 lift 106 lobe sep


Can someone explain what these options are, I do not know the specifics this in depth. Thanks again for any help that comes my way, opinions and criticism welcome

 

You would order it such that the rings fit your new bore size (.030" over), and the bearings fit the mains & rods, whatever they're machined to. Most likely that's not .030" under.

The 1st 3 cams are too little lift for a typical 383, and too much duration for what little lift they have, besides. Looks like the same 40-yr-old series of designs that you can get from say Summit. The 5th cam is too much for anything street driven, especially if it's an auto trans with a stock converter. The 4th cam looks like the old "Stage II" sort of thing. None of them looks appropriate to the application at hand.

Best possible cam will depend on matching it properly to the properties of whatever heads you are using. Gotta know that, along with what machine work has been done to them, to pick a cam. Also, car weight, gears, & converter enter the picture, as well as EFI/carb.

Post what heads you've got. Casting # ONLY please; not "stock", "350", "202", etc.