Charcoal canister

Subscribe
Jan 26, 2015 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
Hey i just swapped in a 383 in my car is the exhaust stinks the 350 i had in before the 305 did the same and both are cammed. My question is after i took out the 305 i had to change the vacuum lines due to not having an egr anymore i had two plugged off from the charcoal canister. I looked today one line is a bigger one and it looks to be the purge line the other was from the egr. Could this cause this problem? The 383 was a used motor and the plugs were a tan colour but after idling it there all black. Just trying to narrow it down.
Reply 0
Jan 30, 2015 | 08:03 PM
  #2  
Re: Charcoal canister
Wow, take a breath, and punctuation is your friend, I had a hard time following your thoughts.

What does it smell like? Do you have a cat? Is the cat working? Do you have an o2 sensor?

Black plugs are fouled. Your motor needs a tune up at the least.
Reply 0
Jan 30, 2015 | 08:59 PM
  #3  
Re: Charcoal canister
Quote: Wow, take a breath, and punctuation is your friend, I had a hard time following your thoughts.

What does it smell like? Do you have a cat? Is the cat working? Do you have an o2 sensor?

Black plugs are fouled. Your motor needs a tune up at the least.
Motor doesn't need a tune up since everything is new I wouldn't bother to put in a new motor and not do that. I found the problem thanks for your input hope you could follow this.
Reply 0
Jan 31, 2015 | 12:19 AM
  #4  
Re: Charcoal canister
Quote: Motor doesn't need a tune up since everything is new I wouldn't bother to put in a new motor and not do that. I found the problem thanks for your input hope you could follow this.
Glad you found the problem! That's the important part.
Reply 0
Jan 31, 2015 | 12:45 AM
  #5  
Re: Charcoal canister
The main problem is getting engines with big cams dialed in right. The charcoal canister will not make a big diff in it.

It's setting of the timing curve, carb idle mixture screws, power valve/metering rod step up springs that will change/cure this prob.

With bigger cams you need to take a vac reading at idle. Adjust idle mixture screws 1 at a time to get highest vac reading.

Add in more timing at idle, use vac advance hooked to a full vac source.
Most performance engines likes/needs 14 to 18 degrees BTDC timing w/o vac advanced, then add in the vac advance and limit it to add 10-14* more.

Limit mech. advance to give you a total of 34 to 38* total and set the springs to have all your timing fully in by 3000-3200 rpm.

Install a power valve or step up springs that's rated at half of what your engine's idle vac is. (if you have 12" HG vac at idle, install a 6.0 power valve)
Reply 0
Subscribe