Surface Rust inside Cyl.
Surface Rust inside Cyl.
i got this block after it had been rebuild and sitting for a year in a shed, its a 350 block that right before it was in storage was complete bored honed and rebuilt, because it was sittting for a while it had condensation inside the block which caused, oxidation, or surface rust nothing that cant be rubbed out with emery cloth or sending it out for a hone, i dont want to have to pull the pistons out unless i have too, and if i yank then out im going to rebuild any suggestions on what i can do with this
matt
matt
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,108
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From: Kalamazoo,Mi,USA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: L69: cam and porting
Transmission: T5, 3.73 rear
Rotate the engine around for each piston till they are at the bottom of the bores and then use scotch brite and penetrating oil to clean the rust off. This is not at all desirable because you may end up with crap in your engine and that sucks.
The best thing to do is hone it, why not do it right while it's mostly apart anyway? That's what I'd do.
The best thing to do is hone it, why not do it right while it's mostly apart anyway? That's what I'd do.
I definitely second Tom84L69's opinion...
pull it out and do it right. "A stitch in time saves nine" I had to find that out the hard way. Dropped my engine in two weeks ago, and hadn't double checked everything. Had to pull it all apart, strip it down turn the crank again..and start all over. Just do it right the first time.
pull it out and do it right. "A stitch in time saves nine" I had to find that out the hard way. Dropped my engine in two weeks ago, and hadn't double checked everything. Had to pull it all apart, strip it down turn the crank again..and start all over. Just do it right the first time.
yea. im def, going to do that, ive decided to buy a steel crank, new rods, forged pistons, new bearings, the whole nine yards, then when im done im going to send the heads out to be reworked, any suggestions on parts for the lower end???
matt
matt
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