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Once again, thank you for all the help, but HOLY SHIZZNANIGAS! I could NOT get the bolts off the Smog Pump! I read all the posts and 99.99% of you said it took a couple minutes but of course since .01% of you had an issue - I KNEW I would too. Alas I did. The Torq screws stripped right out. Then the drill wouldn't fit in there, OF COURSE, so out came the fan and radiator. Luckily I had some coolant/distilled water in the shed. The drilling began and the bits all broke and no luck with the extractor bit. I doused the top bolt with WD40 and gave it the ever so ghetto Vise-Grip treatment, didn't budge. I lured my neighbor over to help me with Vodka shots and he thought we should hit it with a chisel and mallet to see if we could rotate it. He sharped a chisel and showily, VERY SLOWLY and surely we got it moving and once we broke it free it just hand twisted out. It was like a foot long! And the threading is in the back. The bottom bolt looked easy...NEGATIVE on that one too. Another buddy came over to help (they were both trying to escape a day with wife, kids and inlaws - too escape family time I've found married guys work harder than the dudes outside Home Depot!). Spraying WD-40 in the back of the bolt where the threads are, drilling, extractor and the mallet/chisel method. NOTHING! With the top bolt out I muscled the smog pump back and forth and we finally broke the bolt free. One twist with the visegrips and off it came by hand. Once they both moved a little bit, they pretty much came out by hand. Put all the cooling system back together and rerouted the longer belt as directed in the Tech artical. It took all day. Jumped in the car to grab plugs at the auto part store this morning and it was LOUD; tacky loud. Got plugs at O'Reilly's, I just stuck them in and it purrs like a lion again.
Good thing I always plan a day for 5 minutes of work!
One item still remains. How do I get the aluminum pipe/hose, that runs down to where my cat used to be, out? It's so twisted up in there that I can't pull it though the bracket between the firewall and the motor.
Suggestions? a Lift and bolt cutters section by section? A wreaking ball? Any recomendations?
Mine had a T in the rubber tubing to both manifolds, I just swapped the T for an elbow.
Did you change your cat to a cat without the air tube in the side? The reason the cats have an air tube is because there are 4 filters as opposed to just 2, the air tube is in between the 2 innermost filters. It WILL NOT work right without the air tube being hooked up. Get a new cat.
Last edited by Dakota W.; May 13, 2012 at 07:31 PM.
No cat at all. I removed all the hoses out of the manifold and plugged the holes. It runs great, but there is that pipe going down to the cat, that isn't there. I removed all the AIR stuff.
PUNISH3R, Did you disable the air enable vs coolant temp in the 1228746 reprograming. I know the tpi has a 1mv adder to the o2s signal to compensate for the air entering into the exhaust.
tunedperformanc - I'm kinda a meathead, please dumb that question down a little bit! I removed all hoses and equipment associated with the Smog pump (minus that one hose I can't get out but it is attached to nothing and goes to nothing). I took a picture of everything that came off in post #51. There were 2 connectors going to the smog pump, I just taped them up and zip-tied them out of the way. I did not hook it up to a computer if that's the question. She runs great.
Mine got 2 more mpgs and sounded better after taking out the smog pump and a/c, so I didn't bother with anything computer wise either and I'm not running lean.
i used brass plugs from a few local part stores i cant remember the size tho. i just cut the line fitting off an took it in the store and matched it up. they worked out beautifully no leaks and so much easier to change plugs.
i just went to a local junkyard and got a a/c bracket off a 95 suburban and am gonna put that one. it comes stock with just an idler where the smog pump is located.
Without the smog pump (I did the longer belt re-route - no delete pulley) it SORTA looks like something is missing there with the empty bracket but not really that bad. I cut back the coolant hose that was on top of the passenger side of the motor to get the engine exposed even more. Really opened a lot of room in there. My AC is busted but I think I may want to fix it in the future so didn't delete it.
My buddy with a 89 lo3 same serp diagram as OP. Well his smog pump seized up and we had to rig up a quick fix to get it home and now im wondering if the quick fix will last or should i do it the right way. We used a gates k060841 drove it home 45 mins away at 70mph no problems. After reading on here we picked up a k060966 but just wondering if our current setup is fine or not.
I went ahead and took off the smog pump and installed the right belt, plugged the air tubes with intake manifold plugs until i get the 1/4 plugs for the exhaust mainfolds.
I have a 1990 Chevy caprice 5.7 (box body) and I deleted my smog pump and got me a smaller belt 84.5” and instead should I get a longer belt and if so what size? Or part number? Tried routing them both ways and it was too short I went and the crank then tried going over the water pulley still not enough to get over the alternator pulley. Thanks in advance.
I have a 1990 Chevy caprice 5.7 (box body) and I deleted my smog pump and got me a smaller belt 84.5” and instead should I get a longer belt and if so what size? Or part number? Tried routing them both ways and it was too short I went and the crank then tried going over the water pulley still not enough to get over the alternator pulley. Thanks in advance.
I originally got a 96.8" belt and thought it was too short, so I'm running a 98.2" belt now. As it stretched, it's now near the bottom end of acceptable and I probably should have gone with 96.8". Basically, 97"ish seems ideal.
Deadbird- I have a 1986 Camaro Z28 Originally had a 305. I put in a 350. I have overheat problems. I have replaced everything. Now I am wondering if I don't have the water pump going the wrong way. I have the belt going over the alternator (it is on the left sid looking at the engine) over the water pump then around the crank. In otherwords eveything is running clockwise. I have no smog, no A/C. I have Power steering pump with a belt of its own over the crak. The belt over the WP is a flat about 2"wide V belt. Any help?
it should be noted that these car are know for having some overheating issues usually needs fan switch replaced you should make sure they are coming on and i you spun the water pump the other way wouldn’t it still pump water just way slower
Because the belt routings are different. In 88, like that guy has, the belt rounting was different from 89 and up. All you gotta do is look at your own car.
all I can tell you is be sure your water pump is spinning the correct way because if it's not you'll regret having your radiator explode
