Alright I'm right in the middle of installing my TES headers and I just installed the pipe that runs from the drivers side header to the y pipe. Now It's wedged between the oil pan (moroso deep sump) and the crossmember pretty tightly. It's in but I'm worried about the heat that it might transfer to the oil pan (and consequensely to the oil) and to the crossmember. Will this be a problem?

One other thing how do you get to the top bolt on that side it I can't seem to get anything in there.

 

What kind of car do you have? 99 Z28? Well, on my installation of my TES headers for my RS I got the back bolt by going from under the car and using a long extension, are you sure you didnt accidently misplace the pipe by turning it a little bit thats y it is hitting the oil pan? turn it a tad the other way to see if that solves your problem. I also take it that your talking about the rear bolt, go from underneath and have your buddy help keep it on the bolt. have fun, im gonna start my project soon too = D

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1990 G92 5spd LB9 - 3.42

Accel Ignition/Wires (8.8mm), Advanced Timing, TB Bypass, Ported and Gasket Matched Plenum, Synthetic Motor Oil, 160 Thermo, TPIS Airfoil, K&N Air Filters, Centerforce I Pressure Plate and Clutch
14.4 @ 94mph w/2.0622 60ft

Soon To Come

Edelbrock TES Headers, No Cats, Edelbrock RPM Series Catback, AFPR, Underdrive Pulleys, Relocate MAT, Short Throw Shifter, Intake, Cam

Looking for Nelson...I need your email LEN!

 

I have an 88 camaro SC. I'm doing a 350 TPI swap in it and I'm installing the TES headers. Because of the aftermarket oil pan there is 0 clearance all the way across the front of the oil pan sump. It's wedged in there really tightly. I can't turn the pipe at all it's stuck there.

As far as the bolt goes I have the bolt flanges orianted vertically because of clearance problems there too. Unforunatly I can't seem to get even a box wrech up there

 

To get to that bolt I used a 1/4" drive which was all I could fit in there. I held the socket on the other side then put the socket in the extension. The 1/4" drive doesn't allow as much torque as the 3/8 or the 1/2 but the donut should seal good enough with the amount of torque it gives.
Also you will end up with maybe an 1/8th of an inch clearance between the frame and the clamp.