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Jacking up engine w/ header install

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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 08:15 PM
  #1  
Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Jacking up engine w/ header install

For those of you that have had to jack up your motors for your header install....

How did you do it?

First off, in order to get the two motor mounts off, did you just take out the center bolt (the long one) or did you actually have to remove all three holding the mount to the frame?

Second, did you have to remove the tranny mount?

Thanks, any help ASAP would be GREATLY appreciated as I'm going to be attempting this later.
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 08:26 PM
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KagA152's Avatar
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From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
i just started my "operation", and i sure hope i dont have to do this. is it common for people to have to jack up the engine?
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 08:30 PM
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
I've been doing searches on the board for days now, on and off, with regards to the exhaust/header install.

It seems to me that about 25%-30% (just a guess) of these header installs require some movement of the engine.

That could also be attributed to the condition of the motor mounts too.
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 08:58 PM
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From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
I have put Edelbrock headers on my 87 'bird, then to a friends 84 camaro (sold the headers) with no engine movement (but much cussing on the 84) needed and put new hooker shorties on my 'bird with a little bit of cussing but, no engine movement. Both vehicles had OEM mounts.

Last edited by deadbird; Jul 16, 2003 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 09:13 PM
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llvll4l2c91350's Avatar
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i got edelbrocks. i only needed to mess with the driver's side mount. removed the long centerbolt, jacked it up a few inches and header went right through. i figured this would be easier than disconnecting the steering linkage. mounts are still good.
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 09:28 PM
  #6  
LastViceRS's Avatar
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From: NW Ohio
Car: '91 RS
Engine: LO3, For now...
Transmission: 700R4
I jacked up the entire engine when I installed my 1-3/4" SLPs, only needed to do this for the driver side. It wasn't a big deal. Just removed the center bolt. I'm not sure you'll need to go that far with 1-5/8" primaries, though.
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 10:06 AM
  #7  
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From: Maryland; USA
lol those are the memories of slp header install, i have a nice dent in my oil pan. f.y.i dont forget to slid the bolt out after a long day and night of working on the headers. i took the nut off and forget to pull the bolt out and went to jack the engine up alittle and i see the car rising alittle went back down and a big dent in the oil pan. thats what i get for not paying attention all the time. oh well no harm at all just a dent which is alittle bigger than the dent in my drivers side header tube. :;

good thing i used my big jack with more surface area and a piece of wood and i might if been really messed up.


:lala:
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Old Jul 17, 2003 | 12:01 PM
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Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
To avoid the oil pan issue, I may just use my cherry picker to lift it up.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 08:50 AM
  #9  
bigals87z28's Avatar
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From: Ocean, NJ
Car: Check The Sig
how exactly do you lift the engine up with the intake and everything on the engine? this seems to me the most puzzling part.. id like to change my mounts to some poly ones... maybe reduce chassis vibration.. also a new trans mount.. but ill see.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 01:22 PM
  #10  
Ricktpi's Avatar
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
I use a bottle jack at the front of the engine, usually on the boss that the mech fuel pump bolts to.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 06:16 PM
  #11  
llvll4l2c91350's Avatar
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i use a jack and a piece of wood on the oil or tranny pan.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 06:33 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
For my Hooker 2055's, I jacked up the passenger side of the engine. You don't have to remove the bolts that hold the mount to the frame, just the long one. Then I just used a wood block on the oil pan and raised it a few inches. Keep an eye on the distributor to make sure it doesn't hit the firewall.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 09:45 PM
  #13  
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From: Plano IL
Car: 92 Firebird,74 Nova
Engine: Stock tbi,Vortec 350
Transmission: T56, th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 LSD, 2.73 open
I didnt need to jack the enigine up at all, the drivers side just take off the steering column coupler and you'll have loads of room. The right side was VERY tight without jacking the engine but in a time crunch I did without lifting the engine. If you have the time it may help to lift the left side but i'd try without it first.
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Old Jul 18, 2003 | 10:27 PM
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Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Turns out I needed to replace the mounts anyway, so..... all is not lost.
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