89 GTA dual-cat, shorty header w/ air ports Help!?
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
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From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
89 GTA dual-cat, shorty header w/ air ports Help!?
Car:
89 GTA 350 TPI Dual-kitty
I live in PA, our test is and actual exhaust gas sample and visual test. The sniffer test has not been a problem, but I want to keep the air pump intact anyway.
So I have a stock (except msd6a 350 TPI.) I want to add shorty headers and a nice quiet exhaust. I refuse to listen to the flowmaster barrel noise. (thinking Borla)
The things I am most worried about is leaks and problems, so I wanted .5" thick mounting flanges.
I read the other posts, but for a mostly stock engine, with only intake mods left on my list I could use a few suggestions.
stainless or metal (that will be jet-hotted once I buy them) so it is an opens suggestion box from here.
THANKS FOR THE HELP...
89 GTA 350 TPI Dual-kitty
I live in PA, our test is and actual exhaust gas sample and visual test. The sniffer test has not been a problem, but I want to keep the air pump intact anyway.
So I have a stock (except msd6a 350 TPI.) I want to add shorty headers and a nice quiet exhaust. I refuse to listen to the flowmaster barrel noise. (thinking Borla)
The things I am most worried about is leaks and problems, so I wanted .5" thick mounting flanges.
I read the other posts, but for a mostly stock engine, with only intake mods left on my list I could use a few suggestions.
stainless or metal (that will be jet-hotted once I buy them) so it is an opens suggestion box from here.
THANKS FOR THE HELP...
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,746
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Since you have a dual cat car......your header choices are slim. SLP is one of the few that make them for dual cat cars. Only thing though is I don't know of any company that makes a 1/2 inch flange. The thickest I've seen is 3/8. Also, you will want to go with a "stainless" header. Actually, I don't think anybody makes one that isn't stainless.
Now with a stock motor, I'd get the 1 3/4 inch headers w/air. The larger size will also respond well to other power mods. After that I would get some good header bolts to mount them with. Either the Stage8 bolts or there is a type that have an allen screw in the middle of them to help them lock into place. After that, getting the borola system installed and your car will sound real nice. Your easily looking at 1k for this exhaust but in the end you will be happy with the results.
Good luck and I hope that helps a little.
Now with a stock motor, I'd get the 1 3/4 inch headers w/air. The larger size will also respond well to other power mods. After that I would get some good header bolts to mount them with. Either the Stage8 bolts or there is a type that have an allen screw in the middle of them to help them lock into place. After that, getting the borola system installed and your car will sound real nice. Your easily looking at 1k for this exhaust but in the end you will be happy with the results.
Good luck and I hope that helps a little.
As another 89 GTA dual cat car I went with the 2055's with y-pipe all jet-hot coated, and random tech cat's. I'm just going to have someone fab from right before where the y-pipe goes into it's 3" collector, to each cat.
Just to give you an idea on how others might be going around this problem.
Still looking for a mechanic or exhaust shop first locally though.
Oh yea and money
Just to give you an idea on how others might be going around this problem.
Still looking for a mechanic or exhaust shop first locally though.
Oh yea and money
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
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From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
I own a garage with a blue bullet exhaust bender, so that part is easy for me, I just wanted a nice finished similar to stock product when finished.
SLP 1 3/4" headers
skip the install kit, you won't use any of it except for the gaskets which are cheaper if you buy them separately
don't forget the donut gaskets (2)
Buy Stage 8 locking header bolts, make sure they're 1" not 3/4" (may need to call Summit because I don't think they list the 1" part number on their website but that was a while ago that I last checked).
In addition to the Stage 8 bolts, you'll need about 3-4 bolts from the hardware store that are about 1.5" and 4" for the AC compressor bracket.
May want to make sure you have a dremel or grinder to cut the exhaust and the little locking rings for the Stage 8 header bolts (they're a tight fit, but keep the bolts from loosening up).
Once you get better at removing/replacing the header bolts the other hard part will be cutting the exhaust in front of the catalytic converters. Only one of the SLP pipes goes all the way to the converter, so you'll have to order a 45* bend from JC Whitney etc. and a bunch of band clamps, or have it welded.
Oh yea, one last thing. You might need a new starter since those headers are going to pump out a lot of heat. After getting stranded many times I finally broke down and bought a $200 mini starter.
skip the install kit, you won't use any of it except for the gaskets which are cheaper if you buy them separately
don't forget the donut gaskets (2)
Buy Stage 8 locking header bolts, make sure they're 1" not 3/4" (may need to call Summit because I don't think they list the 1" part number on their website but that was a while ago that I last checked).
In addition to the Stage 8 bolts, you'll need about 3-4 bolts from the hardware store that are about 1.5" and 4" for the AC compressor bracket.
May want to make sure you have a dremel or grinder to cut the exhaust and the little locking rings for the Stage 8 header bolts (they're a tight fit, but keep the bolts from loosening up).
Once you get better at removing/replacing the header bolts the other hard part will be cutting the exhaust in front of the catalytic converters. Only one of the SLP pipes goes all the way to the converter, so you'll have to order a 45* bend from JC Whitney etc. and a bunch of band clamps, or have it welded.
Oh yea, one last thing. You might need a new starter since those headers are going to pump out a lot of heat. After getting stranded many times I finally broke down and bought a $200 mini starter.
The starter itself isn't the problem as much as the heat knocking out the selonoid. If you get the selonoid relocation kit from summit it will cure the problem. I also like the fact that you only have one wire going to the starter at that point, and it has no juce going to it unless you are cranking the engine.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
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From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Well I have a shop, so I can bend the pipes and the bolts are on stock, but the whole starter comment sounds like you are using the long tubes,
I wanted to keep things simple with short tubes. If you are talking short-tubes, I may be getting into something I didn't want to get into.
thanks doc
I wanted to keep things simple with short tubes. If you are talking short-tubes, I may be getting into something I didn't want to get into.
thanks doc
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
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From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
that sounds better.
opinion time, are they worth it??? I know headers on all my 4x4 trucks and my diesel were 20hp in the seat of my pants, is that a fair comparison.
ps, mention gas milage going up and I am sold...

THanks once again to all,
Doc
:hail: :hail:
opinion time, are they worth it??? I know headers on all my 4x4 trucks and my diesel were 20hp in the seat of my pants, is that a fair comparison.
ps, mention gas milage going up and I am sold...

THanks once again to all,
Doc
:hail: :hail:
Yea they're definitely worth it, I haven't had to touch mine is years since I got the Stage 8 bolts and the better starter. There's nothing like leaving them open at the collectors and scaring the hell out of people who try to race you..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
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From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
alrighty, your vote was for slp, How much were they...
I would think the price diff from slp to hedman shouldn't be enought to warrant headman with jet-hot...
thanks again
doc
I would think the price diff from slp to hedman shouldn't be enought to warrant headman with jet-hot...
thanks again
doc
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
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From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
I am gonna wait 2 weeks to get the cash flow back in order. Paying cash for my gta killed my account, but it is worth it.
All I need now is to sell 2 of my other 3 cars...
All I need now is to sell 2 of my other 3 cars...
I love my set-up, other then the headers since there 1 5/8, but will change that later on. I have edelbrock T.E.S. headers to dual 3 in. cut-outs to dual 3 in. cats to hooker aerochamber muffler. I had my own custom pipes made from the headers to the cats. Here's a pic.
Peace Out,
PsychoGTA
Peace Out,
PsychoGTA
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: In my car.
Car: 89 GTA red
Engine: vin #8 350TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Ok, what headers do you have, and what is the part number.
Will the long tube headers really drag or not, cause if they make enough hp to notice it, then I will go long.
If the diff isn't that great, somebody just tell me the best deal on either stainless or ceramic coated headers so I can fab up the rest, I can bend exhaust(up to 3") and there is enough room for me to make things nice...
Next problem is a quiet muffler, that will get lound when I floor it. mmmmmmmmm v8 rumble.
Will the long tube headers really drag or not, cause if they make enough hp to notice it, then I will go long.
If the diff isn't that great, somebody just tell me the best deal on either stainless or ceramic coated headers so I can fab up the rest, I can bend exhaust(up to 3") and there is enough room for me to make things nice...
Next problem is a quiet muffler, that will get lound when I floor it. mmmmmmmmm v8 rumble.
I love my Hooker Aero Chamber. It is nice and quiet inside the car. When you stomp on it, it has a bark but still quiet inside. From outside it is a lot louder, that's why I like this exhaust. I also love the sound that it puts out too.
Peace Out,
PsychoGTA:lala:
Peace Out,
PsychoGTA:lala:
The collector on the passenger side hits the starter when using the SLP's. I have the 1 3/4 system. There isn't really any interferance but the flanges touch. I used a stock starter with the solonoid relocation kit. Its been 2 years with no starter trouble.






