I've had an exhaust leak on my #2 cylinder for like 2 years now, lol. I'm running SLP Tri-Y's in the 1 3/8" size. On the last install I used SLP's header bolts and the SLP gaskets. Trust me, BAD idea. I had a leak after only 1 year or so that required a new gasket.

This time I'm going to try the Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts with the Earl's Performance Pressure Master aluminum gaskets. Anyone here using this combo and does anyone have a feedback or opinions on this combo? My alternate choice is simply a dead soft aluminum gasket with Dreslin locking header bolts.

Also, on the Earl's gaskets, what port height/width/style do I purchase for an F-Body TPI motor?

Thanks!

 

Heres what you need to look at. Check the header flange at the motor. What usually happens is that the header gets over tightened (usually because of a leak) and the flange warps. Every gasket installed after that is trying to seal an uneven surface. Won't work for long. Get the thickest (schonfeld I think) gasket (stock sbc port size) and use your locking bolts. Another tip. Use a GOOD quality high temp rtv silicon on both sides of the gasket before you install it. This does two things. 1 Seals any uneven or porous surfaces on the head or header. 2 Allow you to remove and reuse that gasket if you ever needed to. The silicone stops the gasket from baking onto the head or header. Good luck.

 

Good generic suggestion however two things for you to note:

SLP Tri-Y's don't have a 1 piece flange that warps. They have VERY thick individual flanges on each header tube. My leak is simply from a loose bolt which I was not able to tighten due to the SLP 12-pt bolt head and it's location. Also the SLP totally suck anyway. Sorry, I guess I should have mentioned the loose bolt however I presumed that's what most people would think of as the cause as most people do not re-tighten then bolts as they should over time.

Second, if you are telling me to use an rtv silicon then you are not familiar with how the Earl's gaskets I posted about work. They are a thick aluminum gasket with a special material around just the port that through compression and heat form a bond to the iron head surface. This material is even thicker than the gasket it's self and even just looking at it should form a very good seal IMO.

My post was intended to see if anyone has had any problem with these gaskets leaking or with the Stage 8 bolts or with a combiniation of the two. IMO these gaskets SHOULD be better than simply dead soft aluminum ones, the Hot Rod shop I bought them from uses them exclusively and spoke very highly of them saying they have never had a set leak. Personally I would have gotten the Dreslin bolts to go with them but they are allot more and I'm on a very tight budget and time constraint and no one in my town carries them. However, if people tell me they have problems still with the Stage 8's, then I will make the effot to get the Dreslins.

Also on the flip side maybe people have had problems with the dead soft gaskets and the Dreslins, who know. I'm just looking for feedback from people here using these...

Thanks.

 

I use those gaskets in my vette and they work great, using just ARP header bolts and they stayed torq'd. I did not have as much luck with their collector gaskets for some reason, using copper ones from summit that work better.

 

I attempted to use Stage 8 fasteners on my old Camaro but the washer under the clip was to large to lay flat next to the pipe and I couldn't even tighten them. My new Edelbrock headers are already leaking and I'm getting the Breslin lock-bolts and Mr. Gasket 7153 copper gaskets for it. I've read nothing but good things about the Earl's gasket, though!