Hey guys, I was just wondering how hard it will be to install my headers, y, and cat back. I am buying the headers/y pipe combo from Hawk's made for my dual cat system in my L98. I am buying Jegs cat back meant for my dual cats as well. I have already made up my mind on these products, no reason to give me your opinions on what I SHOULD buy. Just how hard is it to install these things?

 

It is NOT hard at all. I did the whole thing from removing my stock stuff, to completely installing my new system from headers to tips in an afternoon.

 

Doing it in one afternoon sounds a little bit extraordinary. I'm not saying its impossible, or that SDTrans am is lying, but I would not count on yourself doing it that fast.

A few things to keep in mind(I just did this in January, but installed a different exhaust).

1: The stock manifold bolts have these metal tangs that are folded up around the bolts. They keep them from backing off. You will not be able to get a socket on some of those bolts until you get a small flat head screwdriver and pry them back. Some are harder to reach than others.

2: Pay close attention to your ground clearance as you run your piping. You should be just fine as long as you are running shorty headers and running down the passenger side of the car. But definetly make sure its hanging high enough. This might sound elementary but I had a problem with optical illusions and ended up having to redo some of the exhaust.

3: Make sure you use either locktite, or locking nuts on the header bolts. I personally always drive a car that I just installed headers on around for 10-30 min 2 different times(letting the engine cool between runs), and then reinstall each header bolt(or just retighten if you use locking nuts). This gives the gaskets a chance to shrink. I have, with 1 rare exception, not had any problems with header bolts backing out while doing it this way. I prefer locktite myself. I have also removed headers before and broken no header bolts from the locktite.

4: If you want to use the stock bar style brackets(A/C compressor to header bolt on passenger side, and alternator bracket to header bolt on driver side), then you are going to need to either track down some special bolts, or you can keep the 2 factory bolts that they attached too and pick up 2 metal sleeves that fit over those bolts so they can still apply clamping force on the much more narrow header flange. Those brackets are going to stick out too far from the header flanges to bolt under conventional header bolts. Maybe your headers come with what you need for this?


Thats kind of it man. Header installation on these cars is a pain, but there are harder headers and cars to do this on. If you have done headers before, then you aren't going to experience anything you havent encountered before, except maybe the metal tangs mentioned in #1. It took me about 3 hours without any air tools to remove the exhaust. The header install was about another 4 hours for me, but they were longtubes. I am also by no means a "fast" mechanic. For you they should go right in with little to no headaches. Installing and welding up the exhaust.... I can't comment on that because that part of my install was much different than yours. Good luck.

 

If needed, replacing spark plugs at this point might be a good idea.

JamesC

 

The loctite, does that go on the bolt to header contact, the gasket to header contact or the gasket to engine block contact?

 

You apply it to the bolt threads.

 

Sorry man. I did mine in an after noon. But like litterally started around noon and went until like 630 or 7 I don't remember. My wife was helping me. I did hooker headers, Hooker y-pipe and the magnaflow cat-back, I got it all from Mackjar off of this forum and it had been previously put together so it was all fitted and all that.

I am not new to 3rd gens I have done a few exhaust systems but ya this one did go a little smoother than even I was expecting.

You should always plan extra time for a big install or swap. I would allot yourself the whole weekend.

 

Fifteen minutes.

However, I had just finished dropping in the 350... It didn't have anything hooked up yet, just to the lower manifold and headers slid in perfect.

 

Use a fel-pro gasket 1404or 1405 with 1" long header bolts and anti-seize on the threads.
Loctite loosens up with heat.

 

I don't know if antisieze is the route you want to go. GM put locking tabs on the factory bolts because apparently they were worried about the stock bolts backing off. Header bolts are notorious for backing off even more than factory manifolds. Antisieze would probably make it worse. BTW, when I say locktite, I refer to basically any of the thread locking brands. Red, or high strength is what I use.

 

Yup, anti-seize and 1" bolts.
Have been using it for 20plus yrs and it works the best esp with the felpro gaskets.

 

it took me about all day to change the stock manifolds over to headers an eliminate the air pump . but that was alot of bullshitting an beer drinking with my buddy who helped me also
make sure you don't unplug the vac. line to the map senser while doing this . i did an the car ran like **** until i tracked down the problem .good luck an post a vid. after the install

 

i used a 5/8 deep socket for the header to y piping, but its not coming off. it looked like there used to be a tiny thread on the end of the bolt, but its sheared off. completely lost on how to get them off

 

acetalyne lolol

 

I've installed 2 types of headers over the years, Both Hedman and Hooker and I'll tell you the Hookers are a thousand times easier to install than the Hedmans. The driver side of the Hedmans rear most header tube (number 7 cylinder) sticks out ALOT farther than either the 2460/2055 Hooker header does and will be a BITCH to get into place without removing the valve cover and unbolting the steering shaft. The hookers just drop right in no problems at all. So if I ever decide to get another set of headers again in the future I'm just going to reuse my Hookers. Screw the Hedmans lol.

 

arent they the same company? lolol

 

Nope, 2 different brands

 

I was thinking hooker and flowtech, holley, weiland, ect

 

its not that it's complicated, but without a lift, and given that most muffler shops can do the job for you for fairly cheaply ($150.00 or so) its almost worth paying a shop vs. doing the instal off of your back with the car 4 inches above your face.

FWIW, my guess is you will see NO improvement in sound or performance with the Jegs brand cat-back. i know you dont want to hear this, but i only say it so that when its all said and done you will know that it isnt aftermarket exhausts in general that are ineffective, but Jegs or Summit "store brand" exhaust systems that are ineffective. this is based on my experience with buying a Summit brand cat-back for my truck - the only thing still on the truck from that being the intermediate pipe. penny wise, pound foolish.

 

LT1 anyone?

 

my headman headers went on real easy, jacked up the moter and they slid right in,the pessenger side was the hardest, they would,nt go in with the heat riser attacted to them so i,ll have to put in in from the botten. took me about two hours and now ready totake it to the exhaust shop to weld them up and new cat,,

 

SDTrans Am, how do you like that set up? That's exactly what I'm doing. And did give any troubles?

 

Nice article on 3rd Gen 1989 305 TPI Firebird header install : http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/030...ebird-install/