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AC Delete fan hookup

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:50 AM
  #1  
1991CamaroRslow's Avatar
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
AC Delete fan hookup

I got an AC Delete box today, fan, wiring, and alot of the underdash stuff. My question here is can I just swap over the wiring from my stock box to the new fan, or will I have to swap wiring harnesses? I also see that the non AC heater box used a cable setup for the air selector and my factory one is vaccum controlled, is there going to be a complication with this working with the new box? I'm hoping I can just pull a swap and go under the hood but I want to make sure before I go sticking it all back together just to remove it again. Also if anyone has an AC delete pulley I'm in the market for one. Thanks again guys.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:52 AM
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1991CamaroRslow's Avatar
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
I just realized this is quite possibly in the wrong section if it should be moved please inform me.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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fireturd350's Avatar
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Just swap your wiring over. The resistor and prong hookups should fit fine. The only things you will need to change is non-ac blower doesn't have they same type connections. You'll need to ground the plate to the body using ring connector terminals. Also you will need to put a Female spade on the power wire, which should be purple is I recall correctly. I don't think keeping the relays will harm anything.

I don't really know about cable setups vs vacuum. The ones I make work fine, maybe my orignal was a different type from yours.

Another problems is that the box lower bolts (2) are different in design. Depending on if you new AC delete box has the plastic female threaded connectors to tighten down. If not you'll need to pick up some washers, bolts, and nuts. If you need these let me know I can look up the right sizes as I bought a lot of this hardware before.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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1991CamaroRslow's Avatar
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
Thanks that's exactly what I was curious about. I searched all over this site last night and got nothing conclusive on the wiring. This should clear things up.
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 08:53 AM
  #5  
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
i changed completely over to non-ac stuff when i did my conversion, but it helped that i had the dash out. I replaced the inside section with the diverters along with the controls because i didn't want a/c controls showing on the control panel.

One complication when you use an a/c controller with a non-ac blower motor is the number of speeds. The non-ac fan has 3 speeds while the a/c version has 4. I'd suggest that you use the resistors from the non-ac. Then connect the wires from your 3rd and 4th blower speed (coming from your control panel) both to the 3rd resistor. Then your 4 speeds will go low, med, high, high.

All of your vacuum controlled diverter functions will still work regardless of what box you have in the engine compartment. So wiring the different blower motor is the only modification you have to make.
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