I have some pics of the front end mocked up I am useing .75 extended ball joints. You can see the outer tie rod and lower ball joint are inline with each other no longer anti ackerman. But with the longer ball joint I knew I would have to lower the outer ball joint to eliminate bump steer and I didn't want to do that because of wheel clearance. So I made a new drag link to raise the inner tie rods, the drag link is steel so it can be welded.

 

Any more pictures of the steering arm/spindle?

 

I have part of the exhaust started and I started mounting the rearend. Anyway some pics.

 

more.

 

More spindle pics.

 

Great fab work as always. Will you be adding any diagonal bracing to the axle side panhard mount? Also the lateral brace to the frame side panhard mount, it would be stronger if it was placed lower, closer to the panhard mounting holes.

 

No pics, but I have checked for bump steer and had to add about 3/16 of washers to lower the outer tie rod end to correct it. That adjustment will change when you alter caster, but atleast I know I'm close. And with the spindle steering arms being shorter my steering will be about 2 1/4 lock to lock, I hope thats not too fast.

 

Well you could always just throw in a higher ratio steering box. IIRC, we had 18:1 and higher for the restrictor plate tracks.

 

I'm useing a dual pass radiator hopeing to make the hose routing easier. I made the lower mounts and had them rhino lined.

 

I plumbed the steam hose into the water pump. A piece of the factory GTO hose fit perfectly. I think I will try to use a steering pump cooler that I found. I have it mocked up.

 

Subscribed

 

Finally got the exhaust done.

 

I'm useing a tilton clutch master cylinder and forth gen pedals.

 

more

 

That Tilton m/c looks much more durable than the oem piece. Is it 3/4" bore. I am using 3rd gen pedals but was hoping to move it up higher on the firewall. I am not going to be running a booster on the brakes so maybe there will be room.

Great fab work as always. The exhaust looks fantastic!!!

 

The mc is a 7/8 bore. But if I had it to do over I would have used a tilton swinging pedel combo with brakes and clutch.

 

Thanks for the tip. Iam not a big fan of the low mount factory clutch master cyl.
I have converted a stock 3rd gen automatic pedal assy to manual brakes by drilling a new hole for the pushrod higher on the pedal for better alignment and a little higher pedal ratio. Wasn't sure if I could do the same for the clutch. I was looking into the reverse mount swing pedals and your comment may swing my decision.

 

A friend of mine put the cage in for me.

 

Mis pics.

 

One question I have for those of you useing the LS1 tank what do you use between the straps and the plastic tank?

 

I've used 1/8 thick cork gasket material glued to the tank with great results.

 

I'm mocking up for the last time. I finished the torque arm I'm using a swaybar bushing to link it to the body.

 

I made a strut tower bar and finished the mounts on the rear end.

 

Some pics from down under.

 

Pic of notched K member to fit alternator because of engine set back. Optima battery box and a pic of the muffler.

 

Great stuff here! Nice ideas and execution. I really like the front K brace. That could be adapted to a lot of unmodified cars.

Will you be boxing in the factory torque arm? I can see the possibility of twisting or flex with the power from the LS motor.

 

Got the seats and belts mounted.

 

Started body work and have some pieces painted.

 

Started on dash and door panels.

 

Really starting to come together! Keep us posted, this is going to be one bad machine!

 

You have got some nice skills. Props on the fabrication.

 

Wow this build is no joke. Can't wait to see it finished.

 

Running fuel and brake lines. Starting on dash and gauges.

 

Dropped motor in and got some suspension hung.

 

Looking good! You gonna have it ready to race this summer?

 

oops

 

Was hopeing to have it going by the end of June. There's a Camaro rally nearby I would like to go to.
Some pics of the torque arm and how I made the 4th gen e-brake cables work.

 

Fantastic build. I have been following since day one and picked up a lot of good ideas and build techniques. This looks like it has become a full blown track day car as I see no provisions for lights or door glass. I don't see any type of door bar built into your cage. Any plans to put some in and if so what kind.

 

The door panel was not finished when the pic was taken so no hole for window crank. And I am moving the wiring harness to the pass side and it will have lights. I don't plan to race this so I didn't put in a door bar, I know would be safer though. Where I live I will be doing mostly parking lot racing. The closest track is 350 miles away, so maybe 2-3 times a year the rest will be street driving.

 

Some pics. The one is the close fit between the clutch res and the brake booster. The other is the replacment for the rag joint and the last one shows a energy suspension boot on the howe +3/4 ball joint. I cut a small piece of pvc tube and placed it between the spindle and the seal to hold it down. It seems like it will work.

 

dude... its coming together very nice

 

I made a new drag link the other one was just too ugly this one has the inner tie rod holes raised 1/2 inch. This helps on how much I would have to lower the outers to correct bump steer. And I changed my mind on the steering cooler. I am now using a small trans cooler mounted in the bumper. The last pic is starting to mount the air intake.

 

Some interior and a pic of some heat shields I made. My headers run very close to the floor so I hope this helps.

 

Is that a modified stock torque arm??

 

Yes.

 

Can u adjust pinion angle or is it set to stock settings?

 

looks like the forward mounting bracket is slotted. how much adjustment that will allow for, I don't know.

 

I didn't make the torque arm adjustable, I guess if I get driveshaft vibration I will have to do something else. No pics because of no progress, but I'm starting to gain speed again.

 

I got to use a "wheel fit" to measure for backspace. A pic of aluminum drive shaft and a pic of the strut mount. To get 1 degree negative camber it almost makes contact with the master cylinder.

 

Some pics of the wheels and the clearance they have. The wheels are Motegi they make them to order.