I've heard nothing but good about the SBC302, was it as good as everyone says? Sorry to jack a thread .

 

Well his ran kinda crappy because it had some crappy 305 heads and things on it, also the distributor clamp kept coming loose and screwed his timing all the time. He never got a chance to build it right, he died at the ripe old age of 20 from a heart attack in his sleep last year.

 

Sorry , I lost my younger brother at the age of 23 in 2002.

 

Wow this thread is full of

 

ok since all u no how to read the CASTING NUMBERS heres mine the number close to the valve covers (the deck number (V0816cdf/1fr100432) i o its a305 but wut year is it i have no clue

 

Hope you weren't reffering to me. I brought the thread back, only because I wanted to hear about the 302.

 

CDF is a 85 305 LG4,

 

First the "casting number" is located on the driver's side REAR of the block, on the flange forward of the bell housing. Based on the numbers you posted, your engine should have one of these casting numbers: 14010201, 14010203, 14010202, 14101147. These all indicate a 2-bolt-main 305. If you look along the rear flange of the block, you MIGHT find a "305" or "5.0" cast there, too, but this is not certain.

The "engine code" is stamped on a pad in front of the passenger side head. These are the numbers you posted. In the number "V0816CDF," "V" is for the assembly plant, which is Flint Michigan. "0816" indicates it was assembled on August 16. "CDF" means it's a 1985 305, and came originally with a Rochester E4ME 4-bbl carb. It was VIN engine code "H" (LG4), 150 horses, and could have been installed in a B-Body, F-Body, or Omega G-Body.

Again, these numbers indicate only what the engine was when it came out of the factory. They can not tell you for sure what you have now, as the motor could be bored, stroked, or both.

References:
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html

 

very good sites ^^^

it even tells you the bore! sweet!

here guys, this will help with the ID codes on the motors

http://www.73-87.com/chevy_ids/blockid.htm

ohh and guys.............. your welcome.

Anthony

 

I've found the easiest way to distinguish the difference is a 305, your oil dipstick will come out on the passenger side. 350's pop put on the driver's side. No doubt about it.

 

all smallblock chevys, 55 to 79 had driver side dipstick, including 305s

 

my way to tell if its a 305 if its slow as hell

 

 

how long is this thread gona live.

 

Really you can not tell truly what displacement is by just pulling a head, my 383 if you pulled the head would be 4.030 same as your 355. but yes you could pull a head and tell if its a 305 or 350. same as you could not pull a head on a 400 and see if its a 377 or a 406 gotta check the crank to to make sure. ok this was me just being a smartass hehe

 

Yes you can. Your 383 will have pistons 3.75" down the hole while his 355 will only be 3.48" down.

 

Well, I am dyslexic so I don't know if I have a 305 or a 350...or maybe it is a 530?

 

With your engine having a driver side dipstick, the engine is older than either an '82 or '83. Thats when they changed it over to a passenger side dipstick.

 

Yes, it was as good as everyone says. With the factory available cross ram and headers with a good tune was capable of over 450 HP with little else being done. Thats the reason that Ford had to build the Boss 302 to keep up with it in SCCA racing.

 

But realize that smaller displacement, shorter stroke (302 is 4.0" X 3.0" bore X stroke) means less torque. The 302 makes its horsepower from its ability to wind up to high rpm. That "good tune" with cross ram and headers means a long-duration cam. Street manners go down the drain, but you can easily make 450 horses. That is, at 6000+ rpm. SCCA racing is a high-rpm operation. For a pure street machine, longer stroke and more cubes for low-end torque is a better deal.

 

1980

 

This is how I know I have a 305:

 

And with the dipsticl issue ever thoguht of someone swapping oil pans.I agree the black casting numbers is THE way to tell what the block was.Also the ID stamp on the front right ledge of the block deck(is they haven't been ground off or the block decked)will tell you what the motor was originally.

 

The dipstick tube goes into the block, not the pan.

 

Speaking of 4 bolts when did they start/end them, just outta curiousity im about 15 mins from pulling my pan on the engine stand and had to quit for the week and the suspense is killing me.

Edit: Guess ill hafta wait, there's no way of knowing. Was the 4 bolt an option for IROCs or what decided what cars got em or what cars didn't, ie RPO code (Like the G80 limited slip package) or trim package (Z28,IROC)

 

I cant see my casting numbers, wire loom is snaped in right on top of it, along with a good size tube, and theres no way for me to see under it.

 

My block is a 400 with a casting # of 3951509 with a casting date of k 21 3 but there were no 400's with a 509 casting in 73 so whats my engine now? A 72 casting put out in 73 or a late 74 casting so it would count as a 74?

 

It's a 509 casting 400 block, and the year is absolutely irrelevant.

 

The year is very relavent to me. 70-72 509's had a 4 bolt main, and 74-80 had a 2 bolt main. Which do I have without dropping the pan since the date is 73 and no 509's were cast in 1973?

 

Why do you need to know if it's 2 bolt or 4 bolt?

 

Well I would like to know more about my motor but dropping the pan isnt in the future right now. PLus I heard 2 bolt mains on a 400 are stronger than a 4 bolt, not sure. Wouldnt you like to know about your engine?

 

If you're sure the year is '73, then I'd say it's a 2-bolt main. According to the MorTec reference (http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm), there weren't any '509 castings in '72, either. '72 models were built on castings made in '71, and early '74 models started with castings made in '73.

 

yeah thats why I was leaning towards a 74 but could it have been a previously cast block from before 72?

 

If you're sure it's a '73 model-year engine, then it's likely a 2-bolt. I haven't heard of any '72 or earlier 4-bolts showing up in later years, unless they were swapped in.

I kinda wonder how important it is to know if its a 2- or 4-bolt, though, except just for curiosity. 2-bolts are stronger. But both are plenty strong unless you're planning to push over 500 horses out of them, or consistently rev them high. Of course, if you're going that route, you'll be pulling the pan anyway.

I'm continuing the build on mine for 420+ horses and 530+ ft-lbs. My self-imposed red-line is 5500 rpm. Either bolt patter will handle that.

 

It's not the 2 or 4 bolt mains that matters on a 400, it's the block casting. The (usually 2 bolt) 509 has heavier main webbing than the (usually 4 bolt) 511. The actual number of bolts doesn't make any difference to strength in a streetable application. For any time that you'd actually need to know if it's was a 2 or 4 bolt block, you'd have the block apart at that point anyway.

 

I was just curious mainly. Motor is comming apart this winter and getting built up/rebuilt.

 

A 4 bolt 400 block will have 3 freeze plugs on the side of the block and a 2 bolt will have 2.

 

A 511 block will have 3 freeze plugs, a 509 will have 2.

 

A 330817 will also have 2

 

there is no real way to tell... I bought my 84 camaro with a 350 and a 5 spd... they didnt make a 350 in 84 but the guy has reciepts to prove it. I guess its possible he bought a 350 and put it in a different car and gave me the reciepts and lying to me... but given the performance upgrades... I would say he is honest, just have to trust the seller and recieve proof is important.

 

my block has 2 dipstick holes, one i had to put gasket over. Its a 4 bolt 350

 

get a camera with a flash, go to town on taking pix :P

 

i just recently bought a 87 camaro and it doesnt run due to starter, but the guy told me its a 350 and his friend checked the casting numbers and claimed its a 350 but i know the car came with a 305 and its really bugging me id really like to know if its a the stock carbed 305 or a swapped 350 carbed. im jw how i can find this out i know u can check the casting numbers but do i have to be under the car to find them or can i just look under the hood and where exactly would it be?

 

http://www.mortec.com/location.htm

 

thats the site i use.... but the location....if its a pretty clean engine compartment. you should be able to see behind the distributer, and there are casting numbers, above the transmission on the little lip of the block right under the heads and intake. most likely it will be 7 or 8 numbers, then go to mortec.com and it has all the chevy info on blocks.and heads, if you wanna run those numbers too

 

when you check the block for the casting numbers, how do you know if its a 350 ?? will ''L98'' be written there?? yes i am a newb lol but please help

 

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

 

If the guy before you swears he never raced it cut out your ac with bolt cutters put a "custom" exhaust on it a cutoff switch etc etc... you know its a 305... or simpily find a drag strip and if you run 17 seconds its a stock 305

 

I have a 350 with a drivers side dipstick. Some came with passengers side. It all depends on year, and car vs truck block. Read the casting number, or take it apart and measure the bore, or the best way in my opinion is to take it out throw it away and buy a 350. That way you know for sure.

 

Kinda right.
55-79 cars and trucks all had driver side dipsticks.
80-2000 cars and trucks all had passenger side dipsticks

Service replacement engines (GM Crate motors) could have eithor