You dont know that Shifty...they have very liberal smog laws here in cali

uhmmmmm


I thought one could have slight issues with the cat converter if one deletes the entire AIR system, that one should in that case go with a cat with no AIR tube ?

nah.... I know peoples son.

Yes, this will work for the B2L/L98, that's what my car is. Any motor using GMs factory serpantine brackets.

Yes, you need the smog pump in Cali, and in just about every other state. Most of us "know" people. hehe

I'm running a magnaflow cat without AIR.

One of the differences in Cali (at least in San Francisco where I lived for a while) was that you could "know" someone (since the inspection is usually done by local shops) and get them to pass you (as opposed to here in WA, they actually have a station setup, owned and operated by the city or state).

yeah u will still be able to use it, those two don't effect your heater controls. the smog pump is for exhaust and the ac is for ac.

I know I'm showing my ignorance here, but why can't U delete both and use a shorter belt?

If it's direction of turning for the water pump, I know u can get clockwise and counterwise rotation WP's.

I may be wrong Zap but I think there is a way if you put a grooved pulley on the tensioner.

Just ordered mine yesterday(A/C delete)

I am goin to weigh the pulley, then weigh all the crap I pull off my car and see how much the difference is...

Will there be less "drag" on the pulley than there is from the A/C Compressor? I would think....

Thanks for the info..

80's AL

There will be no less drag then when the AC compressor is off.

I orderde both the AC delete and AIR delete pulleys from GM direct and got them in about one week. I went to install them yesterday and I noticed that the Pulley on the smog pump is significantly larger than the one one the AIR delete bracket. I just did the AC delete for now and left the smog pump. Everyone say on here that you should be able to use the stock belt but it looks to me that the belt will be too long if I install the AIR delete bracket. I mean the differnce is significant, like 4" to 6". Is there a difference in the later models 91, 92?

I too just got my smog delete pulley in and the replacement delete pulley is much smaller then the one I am replacing... Looks like a new belt will be manditory.

larry, put the smog delete pulley on. it does look different but works properly with the stock length belt.

When you yank the A/C out, do you need the delete heater box for the fire wall or is it just for looks? Will my heater work with out it? Right now I have 2 stubbed out A/C lines where i unthreaded them from the 2 hardlines. Should I cap off the stubbed out lines? Thanks, Daniel U

Yes I could see how the pulley is off to the side of center of the smog pump pulley so the belt should work. UNfortunately I messed (rounded off inside) up the torx bolt head that is behind the smog pump pulley that holds on the tensioner/ac bracket and could not get it off. I assume it is necessary to remove that bracket before removing the smog pump. Now I guess Im stuck with the smog pump which I can never get off.

On the 90 and before model you could do that, but on the 91 and 92, they changed it so that you must have a pulley in the AC position to route the belt properly. I know because I just removed the compressor from Max's car (1990) and put it on mine, 1991. Max's car has the diagram for the belt routing and it shows an optional routing for a non AC car, using a shorter belt. The AC compressor on his car is on the drivers side and the belt tensioner is separate. On my car the compressor is on the passenger side and the belt tensioner is part of the AC compressor bracket. The diagram shows no option for a shorter belt. You could leave out the Smog pump delete pulley, but not the AC compressor pulley.

BTW, the compressores themselves are compatible, Max has cold air now.

for the AIR delete pulleys, i just want to try and verify if the original part number posted here: 10186167, and the one from the serpentine kit: 10129569 are the same
from gm parts direct, the 167 is $54.23 /w s&h, and is called a water pump pulley. the 569 is $43.11 /w s&h and is called a drive belt tensioner.

if they are the same, i'll obviously get the cheaper one, but since i saw a few people on this post having trouble with the pulley size, i'm curious as to which one is correct, if not both.

So, could somebody answer slayer, i'm interested too.

Heard about the A.I.R. delete pulley at modern day muscle so I went to my local G.M. dealer and he didnt know a thing without a part #. I was origanally going to modify a used A.C. delete pulley from David T's but he didnt have any either.

Great topic...............

if you wanna keep your AC and just delete smog then you may totally take the pump off and just change the belt and accomplish it without buying the delete pulley..i did this and there is a tech article on how to run the belt on the tech articles under miscilanious mods

What will happen to your cat, when the air pump is removed????? Will it die a horrible death??? Will it clog up??? I want to do it, but am a little cocerned about the cat...Thanks, Tom

OK time ta show my ignorance.(a daily thing for me).If I remove the smog pump on my 3.1 and install the dummy pully(found 1 this last bone yard trip)what else will i have to do??Is there anything to be done brain box wise??This is new to me i'm used to carbed non-brain syatems.Just cut and plug.What about 02 sensors and such??

Man this thread is almost two years old. I remember looking up a bunch of info on that January before last. Yikes. Oh well...my delete pulleys served me well...lets keep it going.

well that was no help.LOL.Just playin.

everything will still work

I don't know if anyone really cares or not, but in my quest for an electrical system that will support a large stereo...I have opted for two alternators. I have found...that on offset clocked CS130 case fits nicely in place of the A/C compressor. Only needed a small mod to lengthen the mounting hole on the outside. Then, I just piggy backed the wiring...and viola...twin alt system.

Pic's?????

Very soon. I am waiting for my custom power steering pump pulley to get here, and find the new length belt. Once I have those items I will finish it and post pics.

I know the ac defroster ect will still function.(that is if they all did to begin with.) the ??? Was "If I remove the smog pump on my 3.1 and install the dummy pully(found 1 this last bone yard trip)what else will i have to do??Is there anything to be done brain box wise??This is new to me i'm used to carbed non-brain syatems.Just cut and plug.What about 02 sensors and such??"
As in will i have to bypass or reprogram anything??The critter already has a 1/2 butt flowmaster set up which I plan to go back thru and replace/correct.I just don know if deletein the smog/emissions control crap will require me to modify the current other systems/cpu controls.As I stated this fuel injected stuff is new ta me.I'm from the school of square cubes.As in drop out the blessed V-6 and slam in a 454 or 500 and cut anything in the way.I'm tryin ta learn this new stuff. fer yer patience...Bill

when my car was fuel injected, the only emmision related parts i had was the o2 sensor. what year is your car again? mine is an 85, unless yours is OBD II (96 and up) no emission related parts will effect the way it runs ie. catylitic,egr,pcv,etc...

Thanx iroctu thats what i was wonderin.Mines a 90 so accordin ta yer reply it should be ok and i not need ta make any other systems changes.TY again.....Bill

no problem

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294908395

THIS IS FOR BOTH 305 AND 350 MOTORS.

They are DORMAN eliminator brackets. I got mine in 2 days and cost me only $30 flat. Well $28 something. Fits perfect and belt fits perfect.

P.S. SUMMIT does not have the smog pulley

I'm not sure if this is what you guys may be looking to do, but it worked good for me. I don't have the belt size right now I'll grab it tomorrow, but I routed a belt without using the AC compressor or AIR pump. There was a whole thread on here, so I wont take credit for it, but it works great. Ive put 5k miles on it, and have revved a little past 6k rpm. No delete pulleys, no cutting or anything. Tomorrow I'll take pictures and see if I can get the belt size

I've heard of that too, but pics would be great too. Can't wait to see them and the measurements.

I just recieved the G.M. drive belt tensioner today part # 10129569. It does'nt look like the 10186167. The pully on the bracket is for the flat side of the belt.I think I'm gonna return it and order the other part instead.

it's the right part you route the belt on the flat side not like the air pump

Both deletes I got had grooved pulleys.

anyone have the PN for the shorter belt required when you do the smog delete without buying the pulley?

Does anyone know if a Smog Delete Pulley & Bracket from an 87 Camaro v6 would work on my 89 Camaro RS v6??

I cant compare my 89 Smog Delete Pulley & Bracket with the 87 since the bracket snapped off while driving.

for any help!

I have been wanting to take off my smog pump too. I disconnected it last winter when i put on my headers but didn't know what to do about the belt. If anybody knows the lenght of the belt and the route to run it on a 91 Z please let me know. Also if there is pics out there that would be nice too.

I'm definitely gonna throw out my AC in the future. Too bad living in Cali deters me from removing the smog crap.

Please take pictures
I want to get rid of the pump ASAP
i have the delete pulley, but will dump it if you have a good route

Here's a shot of my underhood with the A/C out and the heaterbox that the 1LE cars came with. I got mine used from www.thirdgenusa.com from Dave Staubli. $85.00 + shipping? I think. Anyways, really happy with the look and weight loss. I wieghed at least 50 lbs of A/c junk alone. I know that the heater box and A/C delete pulley still have some wieght, but much less.

Damn man, that looks good.....Much cleaner with the AC delete box.

i got my AC delete pulley at work (advance auto parts) for like $30-$40 or somthing like that

Daniel, was that a real pain in the butt to change that heater box, i just ordered one from some aftermarket company i was wondering the easiest way to get all the bolts out, looking quickly, it seems that they are buried.

Jon, the hardest part is getting the 1 stud on the top nearest to the driver's side. If you can reach it, the others screws are much easier to reach. When installing the heater box, you'll use the stud to allign the box. I did break the old A/C stuff pulling it out, but ha I taken my time, I may have be able to do so without. The box goes in much easier though! Much more room when you're finished to. P.M me if you need any help. What aftermarket company did you go with? Just curious.

Who did you get your box from????? Thanks, Tom