I may buy a 1990 IROC tomorrow, is it worth it?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 105
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From: New Jersey
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Auto
I may buy a 1990 IROC tomorrow, is it worth it?
Hi guys, I'm looking at a 1990 IROC tomorrow and I wanted to know if the asking price is in the right range. It's described as having 111,000 miles with black paint could use some work, T-tops, B&M mega shifter,red interior, JVC CD player.
It also has 17x9" chrome Cragar 390 Street Pros with 245/45/R17 Avenger ZHPs. It has a 305 TPI and 700R4 automatic transmission, and is described as mechanically in good condition. (75 MPH @ 2000 RPM)
He's asking $3k... how does that sound? I'm also trying to pay for college so I'm going to offer him $2200 if I like the car and if the paint is not in that good condition. I'll probably pay more if I like the paint. It was described as having spidering on the front gfx, and some coin sized dents, and the hatch motor switch doesnt work. Thanks for the help!
Suke
It also has 17x9" chrome Cragar 390 Street Pros with 245/45/R17 Avenger ZHPs. It has a 305 TPI and 700R4 automatic transmission, and is described as mechanically in good condition. (75 MPH @ 2000 RPM)
He's asking $3k... how does that sound? I'm also trying to pay for college so I'm going to offer him $2200 if I like the car and if the paint is not in that good condition. I'll probably pay more if I like the paint. It was described as having spidering on the front gfx, and some coin sized dents, and the hatch motor switch doesnt work. Thanks for the help!
Suke
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
There is no lounge.
TGO has no Non-Tech.
Seems cheap if it's in overall good condition. Usually for a price like that you gotta put money into it. Especially since it might need "some work."
TGO has no Non-Tech.
Seems cheap if it's in overall good condition. Usually for a price like that you gotta put money into it. Especially since it might need "some work." Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 377
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
And wasn't 1990 the last year for the IROC--and a short production run at that? So you'll have the pleasure of knowing your IROC is special.
That doesn't mean it(or many thirdgens) will ever be considered rare, but at least it'll have a specific place in thirdgen trivia.
That doesn't mean it(or many thirdgens) will ever be considered rare, but at least it'll have a specific place in thirdgen trivia.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
They'll be rare. Give it time.
Some are already.
It's gonna happen as it always does with age.
Some are already.
It's gonna happen as it always does with age. Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Auto
Hey guys, I talked him to 2k, me and my dad will go look at it again tomorrow and buy it, my dad wanted to check it out once as well.
But, here's what I found wrong... leaking TTops
-spidering in rear and front gfx
-scuff marks in some area of paint, some paint chips
- dull paint in general, has a shine but not very reflective
-1 fog light doesnt work,
- missing the outside badges,
-hatch doesnt lock (hatch motor?),
-needs alignment,
-dash has cracks,
-seat is ripped (drivers),
-no exhaust smoke when start but when giving full gas and high revs a tiny bit of black smoke appears.
-exhaust has weird tone, appears to have aftermarket tips, maybe even an aftermarket exhaust
-b&m shifter, works but doesnt show which gear its in!
-forgot to try e-brake
-doors a little loose.... and the interior part of the door is sort of loose, where the glass comes out of.
I also forgot to try the power locks and windows and power seats, but I will tomorrow.
Still worth it?
But, here's what I found wrong... leaking TTops
-spidering in rear and front gfx
-scuff marks in some area of paint, some paint chips
- dull paint in general, has a shine but not very reflective
-1 fog light doesnt work,
- missing the outside badges,
-hatch doesnt lock (hatch motor?),
-needs alignment,
-dash has cracks,
-seat is ripped (drivers),
-no exhaust smoke when start but when giving full gas and high revs a tiny bit of black smoke appears.
-exhaust has weird tone, appears to have aftermarket tips, maybe even an aftermarket exhaust
-b&m shifter, works but doesnt show which gear its in!
-forgot to try e-brake
-doors a little loose.... and the interior part of the door is sort of loose, where the glass comes out of.
I also forgot to try the power locks and windows and power seats, but I will tomorrow.
Still worth it?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (-1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 2
From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
dude thats all nickel dime stuff....for 2 grand id be all over it
and just remember, a weekend, some rubbing compund, some polish and some elbow grease will bring back even the most faded paint...the paint on my 91 was really oxidized when i got it...8 hours of wheel time and its shiny enough for me to put off painting it for another couple years lol
and just remember, a weekend, some rubbing compund, some polish and some elbow grease will bring back even the most faded paint...the paint on my 91 was really oxidized when i got it...8 hours of wheel time and its shiny enough for me to put off painting it for another couple years lol
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Auto
Also, it appears as if the oil cap was leaking some oil onto the engine but he said that the engine was good and doesnt really leak any oil, just a small amount may come out of the cap.
And another thing, about rust, how do I know if its really bad? I checked the wheel wells and didnt have the typical rust color, but it was a dull gray and it appeared to be rough and grainy in texture, is this how a typical wheel well is for the car? Some parts of the inside were chipping metal flakes. Under the car, I noticed that there was a tiny amount of rust maybe on the exhaust, and some on the frame I think, looks like surface stuff nothing deep.
And another thing, about rust, how do I know if its really bad? I checked the wheel wells and didnt have the typical rust color, but it was a dull gray and it appeared to be rough and grainy in texture, is this how a typical wheel well is for the car? Some parts of the inside were chipping metal flakes. Under the car, I noticed that there was a tiny amount of rust maybe on the exhaust, and some on the frame I think, looks like surface stuff nothing deep.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Auto
I just did a little search on the forum and found this picture :
And the wheel well chipping/flaking I'm talking bout appears to be just like that. Except its all uniformly a grayish color so I'm not sure if its rust or not, but in that pic it was described as rust.
What do you guys think about it? Could it be rust? How much would it cost to get fixed, this car is located in an ocean bordering town, so maybe the salt got to it. Maybe I should just pass with this car and look for others, if rust is too bad of a problem?
And the wheel well chipping/flaking I'm talking bout appears to be just like that. Except its all uniformly a grayish color so I'm not sure if its rust or not, but in that pic it was described as rust.
What do you guys think about it? Could it be rust? How much would it cost to get fixed, this car is located in an ocean bordering town, so maybe the salt got to it. Maybe I should just pass with this car and look for others, if rust is too bad of a problem?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Auto
Well I did a better inspection of the car with my dad and found rust in the engine bay in various spots, and a lot of rust on the undercarriage.
I don't want to deal with serious rust, I don't mind surface stuff that I can sand off and then try to prevent... but it looks like its deep in the engine bay and I'd need to remove the motor to get to all of it, and I don't even know how bad it is underneath till I put it on a lift.
So, I'm not going to buy it, unless he accepts an offer of 1600 to 1700.
Is it even worth it? Or would I be better off with a non rust but more expensive car?
Suke
I don't want to deal with serious rust, I don't mind surface stuff that I can sand off and then try to prevent... but it looks like its deep in the engine bay and I'd need to remove the motor to get to all of it, and I don't even know how bad it is underneath till I put it on a lift.
So, I'm not going to buy it, unless he accepts an offer of 1600 to 1700.
Is it even worth it? Or would I be better off with a non rust but more expensive car?
Suke
Member
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 200
Likes: 1
From: Minny
Car: One of 5
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
LOL, what do you expect for 2K? When I first started reading this post I knew it would be rusty and more than likely engine/drivetrain problems. You aren't going to find a rustfree/mechaincally sound 12 year old or older 3rd gen for 2K
Even though I wasn't actively trying to sell my car a year or so ago I kinda put some feelers on my 91Z for 6500. 32K, 2 owner rustfree well maintained with only 3.73 gears and catback exhaust as mods. Interior and paint look as new. A guy said it was only worth 3500 because nobody wants that bodystyle. I dunno but ever time I drive it it heads turn and little kids holler nice car. I told the guy where there was a nice rusty 145K mile formula for 1500.00. Buy that spend 4grand on bodywork and paint, 2-3 grand on the drivetrain and it would be half as nice as mine. I wouldn't trade my 3rd gen for 75% of the LT1 driving around up here in MN.
Either buy it and use it for a project, or save your cash for when that nice one jumps in your radar screen.
Even though I wasn't actively trying to sell my car a year or so ago I kinda put some feelers on my 91Z for 6500. 32K, 2 owner rustfree well maintained with only 3.73 gears and catback exhaust as mods. Interior and paint look as new. A guy said it was only worth 3500 because nobody wants that bodystyle. I dunno but ever time I drive it it heads turn and little kids holler nice car. I told the guy where there was a nice rusty 145K mile formula for 1500.00. Buy that spend 4grand on bodywork and paint, 2-3 grand on the drivetrain and it would be half as nice as mine. I wouldn't trade my 3rd gen for 75% of the LT1 driving around up here in MN.
Either buy it and use it for a project, or save your cash for when that nice one jumps in your radar screen.
Last edited by ditchbangr; Jun 26, 2004 at 11:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Auto
Actually I ended up buying it for 1900, and I have to put it on a lift to see where any rust mite be. So far I have located some under the wheel wells, there is a 1cm x 1cm rust spot by the door, looks like some on the exhaust and differential.
I hope none on floor pan or anywhere else. I didnt notice this before but I just realized that both doors and the driverside gfx have been replaced from a previously red car and the paint on them is not as good as the rest of the car. So it was probably in some accident.
It appears as if whoever replaced the passenger side door did a real bad job and didnt even align it correctly and I think that is causing my Ttops on that side to leak, causing extra space between the window and the ttop. And that door lock doesnt work.
I think I will take the doors off, repaint them myself along with the messed up gfx and then put them on properly.
Other than that and some minor problems, the car is mechanically great.
I hope none on floor pan or anywhere else. I didnt notice this before but I just realized that both doors and the driverside gfx have been replaced from a previously red car and the paint on them is not as good as the rest of the car. So it was probably in some accident.
It appears as if whoever replaced the passenger side door did a real bad job and didnt even align it correctly and I think that is causing my Ttops on that side to leak, causing extra space between the window and the ttop. And that door lock doesnt work.
I think I will take the doors off, repaint them myself along with the messed up gfx and then put them on properly.
Other than that and some minor problems, the car is mechanically great.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 0
From: Boscobel, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 Iroc-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4 w/ about 7500 miles on rebuild
that shouldn't be too bad. I got my 87 iroc for 1500 and it has some rust on the quarters. Not much, just some surface where the paint chipped, but its still there.. A professional painter friend of the family and i are gonna paint it this summer (late). The undercarriage was undercoated and there isn't too much rust under there. The engine that was in it was blown, also, so my dad built me one for my grad present (all race prep). So 1900 for a little bit of body work isn't too bad.
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