Serious question about modding...
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 7
From: Northern California - Bay Area
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 - full intake & exhaust boltons
Transmission: Bowtie 700r4, 2400 rpm stall
Axle/Gears: Borg-Warner 9bolt, 3.45 gears, posi
Re: Serious question about modding...
Those subrame connectors help out a lot. If your car was a stock L03 Camaro RS the benefits won't be as substantial though. The RS's don't have the same suspension tuning that an IROC has. Also a stock L03 is also not going to put the same torsional twisting forces on the frame like an L98 will.
I've got an L98 IROC too with bolt-ons and believe me when you start making mods it becomes very clear just how much torque that motor is making and how it affects the chassis. After I put my Hotchkis subrame connectors on my car the chassis was a lot stiffer overall and the body wasn't twisting so much when I wrap the throttle.
Also when you go on twisty backroads the car feels a lot tighter as the frame isn't twisting as much so the suspension can do its job in stead of trying to keep the tires where they need to be in addition to to dealing with the body twisiting around.
Before I got my subframe connectors and I went on a twisty backroad and pushed it hard, you could hear the body creaking a little bit after all those turns. The loads that the car experienced during the road course style road runs got transfered to the body and twisted it a little bit. After the twistys were over that energy got dissipated and the frame went back to it's normal state. After the subframe connectors got put on I haven't had that problem anymore.
I can assure you that my car is structurally sound. I'm from California and so is my car and there are not rusty floor boards or any other structural problems that would make the chassis or body of my car not be able to handle road loads and stress.
Also when you work on your car, subframe connectors make a good jacking point too. Your car also won't twist out of shape so much when you do jack it up because they add torsional strength to the frame. I really wish that GM would have put subframe connectors on these cars from the factory, they all really need them badly. I know that would have cost more money so that's why they didn't do it but, they should have at least been installed in the V8 top line performance f-bodies from Chevy and Pontiac.
Technically you could say that cars have 5 springs - 1 for each wheel - and the 5th spring is the chassis. All the road loads and drivetrain loads are getting transfered to the chassis of the car. If that is not solid then everything attached to it will suffer and may not perform up to the best of it's ability.
I've got an L98 IROC too with bolt-ons and believe me when you start making mods it becomes very clear just how much torque that motor is making and how it affects the chassis. After I put my Hotchkis subrame connectors on my car the chassis was a lot stiffer overall and the body wasn't twisting so much when I wrap the throttle.
Also when you go on twisty backroads the car feels a lot tighter as the frame isn't twisting as much so the suspension can do its job in stead of trying to keep the tires where they need to be in addition to to dealing with the body twisiting around.
Before I got my subframe connectors and I went on a twisty backroad and pushed it hard, you could hear the body creaking a little bit after all those turns. The loads that the car experienced during the road course style road runs got transfered to the body and twisted it a little bit. After the twistys were over that energy got dissipated and the frame went back to it's normal state. After the subframe connectors got put on I haven't had that problem anymore.
I can assure you that my car is structurally sound. I'm from California and so is my car and there are not rusty floor boards or any other structural problems that would make the chassis or body of my car not be able to handle road loads and stress.
Also when you work on your car, subframe connectors make a good jacking point too. Your car also won't twist out of shape so much when you do jack it up because they add torsional strength to the frame. I really wish that GM would have put subframe connectors on these cars from the factory, they all really need them badly. I know that would have cost more money so that's why they didn't do it but, they should have at least been installed in the V8 top line performance f-bodies from Chevy and Pontiac.
Technically you could say that cars have 5 springs - 1 for each wheel - and the 5th spring is the chassis. All the road loads and drivetrain loads are getting transfered to the chassis of the car. If that is not solid then everything attached to it will suffer and may not perform up to the best of it's ability.
1) I had Alston SFCs on my 91 RS that I bolted on...In 12k miles of recreational driving, they never seemed to loosen up. It would take me 15 years to put 12k miles on the IROC
I agree welding is the better way to go, and wonder if even being bolted on super-tight is as good for the car as welding. My RS felt better, but it didn't seem night-and-day better like so many people seem to claim after adding SFCs.
2) I will be keeping the stock ride height. Third gens are low enough as it is, and anything that is modified is something I want to be able to remove somewhat easily. Springs don't fall in that category.
The color of the TTOs are really what led me to them...I think its gonna look awesome.
I agree welding is the better way to go, and wonder if even being bolted on super-tight is as good for the car as welding. My RS felt better, but it didn't seem night-and-day better like so many people seem to claim after adding SFCs.2) I will be keeping the stock ride height. Third gens are low enough as it is, and anything that is modified is something I want to be able to remove somewhat easily. Springs don't fall in that category.
The color of the TTOs are really what led me to them...I think its gonna look awesome.
Last edited by yaj15; Sep 17, 2012 at 11:27 AM.
Thread Starter
2011 Norwood Gathering
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,435
Likes: 4
From: Sarasota FL
Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
Engine: LS1 / LS1 / LSA / 5.7 Hemi
Transmission: 4L60E / T-56 / 6L80E / W5A80
Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
Re: Serious question about modding...
To be clear on the tint issue, this is the same tint on my 88 TA. This picture is from when Alan91Z28 was loading the car up the day I sold it to him...

Not the best pic, but the only tinted window pic of it I can find at the moment...I thought it looked awesome.

Not the best pic, but the only tinted window pic of it I can find at the moment...I thought it looked awesome.
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 48
From: CA
Car: 1991 Camaro B4C
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Serious question about modding...
Here's a DIY Walmart tint from the previous owner... need to redo it with nicer tint but it looks good in photos:


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