Full Dash Removal (yes i've searched)
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Full Dash Removal (yes i've searched)
Ok all the old posts say take the screws out and it comes out. Well what about the 2000 miles of wireing?!?!? Does that all just fall out or can that all stay hooked up?
I know to take all the top and bottom bolts out, i already did that. But some of the bolts are holding the fuse block and that metal structure that runs the length of the dash. Can the metal structure part stay on the car holding the wireing in place? Then i could just take the plastic itself off and keep all wireing attatched?
PLEASE help guys, i DO NOT want to rip any wires and **** up my whole car! I can see it already, new dash will be in but all the wireing will be f'ed!
I know to take all the top and bottom bolts out, i already did that. But some of the bolts are holding the fuse block and that metal structure that runs the length of the dash. Can the metal structure part stay on the car holding the wireing in place? Then i could just take the plastic itself off and keep all wireing attatched?
PLEASE help guys, i DO NOT want to rip any wires and **** up my whole car! I can see it already, new dash will be in but all the wireing will be f'ed!
Re: Full Dash Removal (yes i've searched)
not being a **** so dont take it the wrong way, but just take all of the screws out.the dash will pull out with all of the wiring still sitting in place. the only part that i had a hard time with was the headlight switch. all of the wiring stays behind, except fot the few switches and cigerret lighter that have to be unhooked before removal. other than that you should have no problem, and yes the metal stays in the car, i think it has something to do with the fact that it is welded in place. hope this helps
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