Hey I have an 84 Z-28 and am trying my darndest to stop the tops from leaking on the passenger side. I had them almost completely sealed at one point by sealing all the cracks and crevices with windshield urethane which has worked pretty well but now the passenger side is leaking again any insight on how someone may have self remedied this problem? Thanks

 

also i know this part is in high demand from us third gen lovers but i need a dash pad any sellers or can anyone reply with good places to acquire one

 

You need new gaskets. Also, take the t top bar off and reseal it. Do a search. There are plenty of threads on it.

 

I suggest replacing the weather stripping as well as I did mine and they wont leak ever now as I went overkill on the adhesive compared to GM

 

I agree,new weather stripping, be done with it.I didn't overkill but I sure used a helluva lot more than GM.

 

Pull all your T-top stripping and clean out all the rust/dirt.old paint etc. Then, put a ton of sealant on the backside as you are putting the new stripping in, making sure it seals around the the backside of the stripping to the car. Use way more than is reccomended and clean it as the seals set to get rid of any excess.

 

For a quick Fix. Clean all rust and crap outta the way on both sides of the stripping, then armor all the hell outta them at least 4 times. It has worked with mine for 6 months. Touch up once a month. Can't afford new stripping yet.

Also, make sure your tops have a good fit. They can be too loose.

 

We carry the t-top weatherstrip kits on our website, Here's a link to our Camaro T-Top Weatherstrip if you would like to check on pricing.

 

I had a similar problem in my '83 Z/28. My T-tops were badly neglected, to the point that both seals were cracked and torn in places, the outer T-top drip rails were torn, and the metal underneath was badly corroded. My T-top bar was completely destroyed, with both side pieces rusted completely apart from the center. My car leaked like a colander in even light rainfall, soaking my floors, seats, and making for a miserable ride. As a new replacement set was too expensive at the time, I managed to find and carefully remove a set from a '92 in the junkyard without tearing or otherwise damaging the seals. I also pulled an intact center T-top bar. I then removed my seals, allowing me to see exactly how bad the metal underneath had gotten. This is where GM's lack of engineering was mostly at fault. The factory design does not allow the water anywhere to escape, and only seals between the glass and the seal, not between the body and the glass. This means that water can get in down behind the seals and around the center T-top bar, and stays trapped until it evaporates. Over time this corrodes the metal and will eat holes in the body. My car had several small holes, a couple large enough to fit a fingertip in, and one large 3" long gash along the back of the passenger side.Even with brand new seals installed without fixing these issues I would have still had water pouring in.
I stripped away the paint and rust with an electric grinder and a wire wheel, removing all much corrosion as possible and all the paint in the T-top channels. Then I used 2-part metal epoxy to repair the smaller holes, letting it set up overnight to fully cure and harden. For the larger holes and gash, I first filled the holes with expanding gap-filler foam, letting it cure fully and trimming it back with a sharp knife before using the 2-aprt epoxy metal putty to repair the hole. Once this had cured, I sanded by hand the T-top channels smooth, then treated everything with 2 coats of rust converting primer, then 2 coats of filler primer, before finally spraying everything with 2 coats of my paint color. I then used 3-hr rain-ready silicone caulk and coated the entire surface under the T-top center bar, sealing entirely under it. Then I used an ample bead of weatherstrip adhesive, and working from the inside front corner of the T-top center bar, installed one seal at a time. Once both were installed and dry, I again used 3-hr rain-ready silicone, starting again at the inside front corner of the center T-top bar, and between the seal and body filled the gap. As I filled I let the seal move back into place, squeezing out a little of the silicone as I went. Afterwards I smoothed this out carefully and wiped away the excess, so that the top of the seal and the edge of the body are effectively one continuous pliable surface to the outer edges of the roof. Once everything fully cured (about 3 hours later on a 75 degree day), it was ready to put the T-tops back in. I also re-adjusted my T-tops so that they have no "wiggle" to them and lock in place securely, holding tension on the seals and preventing any water seepage.
Since the repair I have not had any further issues with water leaking into my car, even in fierce thunderstorms.