there's a button on the bottom of the switch.. press it while pulling the stalk. It is not easy.. but, it will come out. Once the button and rod are out.. you can unscrew the plastic nut.

hope that helps.

j

 

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind when I go to pull mine apart.

 

You have to have the headlight **** pulled all the way out, then you can push the small metal button on the underside and slide it out the rest of the way. Just replaced mine, the screw was broke and what was there was covered in glue so they zip tied it in place, lol.

 

Thanks for clarifying it. I just want to be sure I am doing it right when the time comes.

 

1. Reach up and locate (by feel) the headlight switch. On the underside of the switch, find the little spring loaded button. The image attached is a switch from a 1st Gen RS but the buttons are typically the same for all GM switches. Notice the button next to the headlight door vacuum ports.

2. While holding down the button, pull the headlight switch **** out to remove it.

3. Remove the panel that the headlight switch mounts to to gain access to the headlight switch mounting nut. It appears there are four screws holding the panel to the dash. IIRC, two are fake; the other two are real.

 

I am amazed at all the answers I have gotten on such a simple question. Thanks so much guys! paulo57509 do you have access to a whole 1986 Camaro assembly guide? I only have an '84 Camaro shop manual that I reference when I need to look something up.

 

So, wire brushed the surface rust.. then a nice coat of this rustoleum I got at Home Depot. Seems to be doing the trick.

j

 

I am impressed with people's determanation although im more or less doing the same thing but doing the thousands of dollars in the important stuff first which is so far DEEP BREATH......new fluid and seal for the rear end. ..new shocks and struts...tie rod ends...sway bar bushings. ..front brakes. ..fuel lines...brake lines. ...new edelbrock valve and air cleaner...used t5 tranny.....removed all ac and emissions stuff thanks to the po it wasnt worth saving. . Removed.all wiring except the nessary to operate it including ecm removal...used edelbrock intake...removed all interior except first foot of console to hold the radio and heater control. ..just bought yesterday a set of iroc sway bars and a dash pad that is in way better condition than my old one. ..and im sure im forgetting some things and the list continues anyways. its still on my mechanics/friends lift for two months now and we hit it every weekend. The can of worms was the t5 while it was on his lift we were searching for one for a couple of weeks he started saying this has to go thats go to go this needs to be replaced ect ect. Its been fun and I wish the same for all of you. As for pics he says thats gay....idk dont ask so im going to take some when hes not around and I cant wait to get it back on the road just in time for the rain arrrrrrg

 

Start a thread when your ready and show the progress.

 

One option is to replace the carpet in front only & reuse carpet in back hatch area.

 

that's what I'm going with..
thx
j

 

Finally got replacement dash -- it's not as it was supposed to be.. but, I'm going to try to make it work. It's got three broken plastic mounts:
Dashpad mount


Under Gauge Cluster Mounts




Would you suggest washers? Gotta be a work around.. the rest of the dash is usable.

Also, the air vents just flop around.. how have you stopped that? Velcro in the back? just want to tighten them up so they stay like stock.

thx!

j

 

Can you trim the broke pieces out of your old dash and epoxy them to the new? I used automotive silencer tape on my vents to firm them back up.

 

I'd like to hear the fix for the floppy air vents. My parts car has that problem too.

 

more pics.. did more work today. Brushed away more of the surface rust. It's gone.. put more of the coating on .. and I feel good about it. While working inside the car.. I cam across a part where either the factory or a previous owner cut a hole in the floor -- I took some shots of it.. anyone have any idea what this might be?




Got the upper door trim off and the weather stripping. Was a pain.. but, figured some stuff out. You need to have the window down (duh) to take them off. The weather stripping is a pain.. unless you loosen the the felt keeping the glass snug. Once you do -- you can pull the glass toward you and get a wrench on the small screws holding the felt in. Yes, there is one on each side behind the corner triangle. Two nuts and a bolt and that's loose. Then you can move it enough to get to the last screw.



Doors are looking really clean:



The Weather Striping around the doors will definitely have to be replaced.. no saving it. It's brittle and done




BTW, here's the Fuse Panel. It's always just hung there. I don't know how it mounts. Do you?



Now, I'll have to buy some window and rear hatch switches. If you didn't see my thread here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...1-2-weeks.html -- Go check it out. My parts finally came in.. and there were major problems even after 3 1/2 weeks.

Back at it tomorrow. Trying to take my time and make the car great.

Thanks for the input.

j

 

LOCKS UPDATE -- after tons of WD-40 .. the driver's side lock is working great. The passenger side is not playing along. It's better.. but, not there yet. It is a replacement actuator (on both sides) and it was moving around a bit. Tightened it down and it worked a bit better. I guess what I don't understand is why we can't just cut down on the throw. Just seems like there's too much length on the lock metal rod. The power mirrors don't work. I need to figure out why.

Will update over the weekend.

j

 

That hole looks like they cut an access to a transmission bolt.

 

I have a manual remote mirror for the drivers side and a manual mirror for the passengers side if you can't get the electric ones to work.

 

thx.. I'm definitely going to keep it stock with the power mirrors.. just have to figure them out.


j

 

I'll say this.. I NEVER expected there would be this many parts involved.. but, I'm not sorry I did this. It's quite a project and great at getting my mind off the daily grind. Took the tracks off of the seats.. and broke the seats down today.. helpful hint.. the bolts are east on the non-power seat.. keeping in mind it's difficult to put the track all the way back by hand.. strong spring. It can be done.. and the bolts come right out.. the power seat is more of a challenge.. that becomes simple. Hook it back up and put the seat front and back all the way up -- not forward.. UP. Then the bolts are easy. Hope this helps. Got the correct dome light.. and it's too big for the opening .. so obviously -- it's a newer headliner.. so I'll have to cut it to make it fit right.. I guess. Still working through it. Am contemplating what's next. I've got the interior paint.. will be painting lots of plastics.. and have a ton of new parts. This interior is gonna be cherry.. then -- mechanical.

 

To me the interior is very important, it's not what people see first but it's what you live in.

 

yup

 

When you go to put the top of your console back on remove the two bolts that hold the e-brake down. You can move it all over the place to get the top around it and then bolt it back it down when you're done. I have had to do this on three of the third gens I've owned.

 

smart.. great advice.. thx. Not sure when I'll do it yet.. but, will definitely do that.

 

Here ya guys go.
https://www.thirdgen.org/ventfix

 

and, now for one of the easiest repairs so far. The seat belt kits you can buy on ebay for 12.95 completely worth it.. and then some.



All four look like new now..

 

First of all -- the hatch motor Kurf sent me -- perfect. easy to use the lock you already have. Careful twisting the plastic off as I also pulled the spring on the lock mech when I did it. A little patience and I got the spring back on .. and all is well..



now for the rear area light.. I might be on something -- but, shouldn't there be something connected to the switch?

The switch is on the left.. and the light on the right.. from the backside. Does anyone have a picture of what the switch should look like from this vantage point? I'm guessing there's some sort of the plug on it.

thx!

j

 

Quick update: Trying to decide if now is the time to paint.. and, I expect my seat covers in a couple of weeks. Still looking for a good WHITE PAINT hatch release switch.. and still not sure how the fuse panel should be mounted..

 

ebay. com/itm/FatMat-100-Square-Foot-Sound-Control-Deadener-For-All-Cars-Trucks-1-Selling-/120919500607?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1c275d273f&vxp=mtr

I used this stuff for my interior project. It is not as thick as dynamat but it made a HUGE difference! Had plenty to do the roof and doors too as well as my HHR. Definitely would do it again!

 

thank you

 

No problem...it is hard to tear one of these cars down to any extent because you get the restoration fever. Just a few more dollars and then it will be done...just a few more

 

you happen to have a pic or two of how it looks in your car and on the doors?

thx

 

Sorry about the quality...









Mostly covered the rear section, and then anywhere that was flat. No pics of the doors or roof.

 

I removed left over jute padding from the glued points by putting ice in a zip loc bag on it and then using a wire wheel to take the top cold layer off. PITA, but it made the floor more level. Noway can you remove it all, but it worked well enough to have something solid for the fat mat to stick to.

 

great.. I was hoping for a solution that would also work on the doors and not be as expensive..

 

The fuse block mounts with 2 screws at the edge of the block. You should see a thin flat piece with 2 holes in it that will hinge. Once you put the screws in there is a plastic tab on the fuse block that will lock the fuse block in. Its set up so you can push on the tab and hinge the block down for easy access but keep it bolted to the dash. I can get pics if you need them. If you put the bottom dash panel on you will see where the box should be located.

 

thx!

 

There is a black plug on that same harness that goes to the switch. Should look like this:

 

I just ordered a kit. Any installation tips or photos?

 

not really.. very straight forward. A picture and instructions were included. I only replaced the spring on one that I felt needed it. While I had it apart, I WD-40ed the mechanics inside.

good luck!

j

 

Not sure if anyone has responded to this yet but I had the same problem with my car when I first got it. While you have the panels off, spray everything that moves generously with lubricant. I like white lithium grease myself. Do it with the window up or you'll be washing the glass for a few days.

Also you may want to check your door handles while the panel is off. My outer door handle on the driver side was loose and was hitting the paint when I opened the door. There are two nuts on the inside that hold it on. You can't really see them but you can get in there with a wrench and snug them down if they are loose.

 

Seat covers are in and they LOOK amazing.

 

That's looks sooo OE it's not even funny.

MOAR pictures of those covers and from where please.

 

Mo Pics --

Got them from Princess at Lethalinteriors.com

Asked for the color scheme.. and asked for the IROC logo embroidered right where you see it. I LOVE how they turned out.

 

Those seat covers look awesome. Get some pics up when you get them installed! Are you doing door panels too?

 

yep.. door panels too

 

What I did on mine was to take all of the vents out (easy to do with a small screwdriver), wash and dry them thoroughly. Once you pop the vent out, you'll be able to see where the old material was that held the vents in place. Cut some black foam rubber squares about 1/4" thick and glue them to the ends of the vents where the old material was.
After they dry, slowly work the vents back into the dash, compressing the foam as you go. If you got the foam in the right spot, you can't see the foam and the vents will stay put. I did this about 3 years ago and the vents still stay in the position they are turned to.

 

@72SSboy I pulled out the carpet in my car and found a similar hole like you found on the transmission tunnel. I'll post some pictures of it tomorrow.
Info for my car:
1986 Chevrolet Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine:2.8 MFI V6
Transmission: 700R4 (Bell housing exclusively mounts to the 2.8)
Just thought I'd let you know your not the only one with that kind of hole.

 

cool

 

Very nice!!