After searching for a while, I do not believe that there is a thread specifically dedicated to the console removal. Im doing a 700r4 to t5 swap this weekend and I honestly have no idea how to even start the removal of it.

 

If you cant figure out how to remove the console, should you really be swapping the transmissions?

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_JBlLFj4dU

 

Nytmare does have a point but I'm figuring you've already answered that question. I just took mine out last night for carpet installation. A few years ago I swapped from auto to T5 (then to Tremmic) so you do have your work cut out for you. It took me a few weekends to get it all done so be patient.

Regarding the console, start with the shifter ****, then the shifter plate, radio, heat a/c controls. There are screws in the console compartment and some under the shifter plate, radio/AC panel and two on the out side of the console going up into the dash. They're kinda buried in the carpet.

Now for the swap you have some fabrication getting rid of the auto shifter and cutting a hole for the stick, adding a boot and I think I had to fab a bracket to replace a mount the auto shifter had on it. There is some rewiring to do for the neutral safety switch and of course the pedal swap and master cylinder for the clutch.

Here a tip, you don't have to remove the brake master cylinder but you will need to remove the brake booster. There's enough clearance don't worry too much those brake lines will bend enough. You really need room to work to get the clutch master mounting holes in the right place. There is a cut out in the firewall insulation (for cars with manual) which will get you in the ball park. Then mount the pedal assembly bracket without the pedals and use the "brace rods" to indicate where the master cylinder holes should be. This is a real tricky operation. There isn't much room to work and there is a sequence the pedal bracket, pedals, pivot rod and braces need to be installed in to get it to work out. You can't (or I couldn't) place the entire pedal assembly in while bolted together. The pivot rod has to have about 6" of clearance to one side to get it in and I think I had to move some things around under the dash to get it in. If someone else has a better way please chime in.

Then of course, flywheel, clutch bell and trans. If you had a donor car (which I did) that will help a lot for things like torque arm mount, clutch neutral safety switch etc. Hey when you are all done don't think you wired something up wrong if you hatch release doesn't work, you now have to push the clutch in to pop the hatch!