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LT1 in 89 TA , Fbody ACC , getting AC to work question

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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:42 AM
  #1  
Thirim's Avatar
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
LT1 in 89 TA , Fbody ACC , getting AC to work question

Has anyone managed to fab up a way of hooking up the AC lines on their LT1? Im using the Fbody Accessories.. and all im missing is the 2 lines.. but easier said then done.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:56 PM
  #2  
dbrunner2's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: 1994 F-car LT1
Transmission: T5 World Class
Axle/Gears: Jag XJ6 IRS, 3.42, Auburn Pro posi
Just did the same job on my '89 RS. I got the sealing-washer-type hose block from acsource.com (Hose Block(Horizontal Oring/Sealing Washer Type) - AA0335), which gives you standard O-ring boss connections off the back of the compressor. This is the only place I've found it; if you mention it to any parts counter guy or A/C tech, he will look at you like you're from Mars. The two sealing faces on the block are in the same plane, whereas the high side on the stock hose assembly is 0.090" higher; you can get a different sealing washer at Napa (painted red in the assortment box my local store had) that is 0.090" thicker than the normal one.

I then got hoses made at my local A/C shop with right-angle ends to connect to the block, which allowed them to clear the headers and come straight up. If you have different headers (or, God forbid, cast manifolds) you may need to do something different with the hoses. I don't know if the vertical block that acsource.com sells will work with our compressors, since it's made for O-ring seals rather than washers and therefore does not have the small cutback around the sealing faces to allow them to fit properly into the holes in the compressor (look at the pictures to see what I mean). You might be able to make it work by grinding/filing the cutback into the block, or grinding the offending parts off the back of the compressor (plugging the holes of course to keep dust out).

To install it, I first connected the hoses to the block, doing a few trial fits to make sure they cleared the headers and the engine block, and then bolted the assembly onto the compressor as a whole. You ***DEFINITELY*** want an air ratchet or manual ratchet with right-angle drive, so that you don't have to actually move the wrench back and forth in the tiny space between the header and engine; I spent more than a few cumulative hours cursing over this when my compressor turned out to be leaking and the whole setup had to come apart again...and again...and again.

On that uplifting note, good luck!
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 07:50 AM
  #3  
Thirim's Avatar
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
have you looked at this fitting at all?
Hose Block (Vertical Oring) - aa0336
Wonder if this will do the trick? .. is your ac running? does the fact that the lines are so darn close to the headers make any difference? heat etc? .. what headers do you have?

thanks for the info.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:15 AM
  #4  
dbrunner2's Avatar
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: 1994 F-car LT1
Transmission: T5 World Class
Axle/Gears: Jag XJ6 IRS, 3.42, Auburn Pro posi
That one wouldn't work for me, since a hose coming straight up from the back of the compressor would hit the headers (FlowTech shorty headers, model 11116). Depending on your headers, it might be better; I couldn't guarantee that it would hook up to the compressor though, for the reasons I went into above.

My A/C is running, and cooling fine. I used R-134a with a variable orifice valve (they sell these on acsource.com too; they cost about $20 but they apparently help a lot in systems with condensers designed for R-12, like ours). I'm going to put some heat shielding on the A/C lines and/or wrap the headers when I get a chance; should improve the system's efficiency if nothing else.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:31 AM
  #5  
Klortho's Avatar
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Kingston, Tn
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70 posi
I'm getting ready to hook mine up and going to use the 90* piece since it's the only thing that will clear my headers. Also going to use a 4th gen condensor since I'm running the 4th gen radiator, it should fit like a glove, and putting a new dryer in. This way it will be all 134a and won't have to worry about anything, it will be like the system in a 4th gen.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:51 AM
  #6  
TexasLT1's Avatar
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From: Angleton, TX
Car: '92 RS
the 90* fitting is the one I plan on using. I got the straight-back on to start with and it just didn't seem to want to work. going to try that one next.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 10:16 AM
  #7  
Klortho's Avatar
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,924
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From: Kingston, Tn
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70 posi
Hey TexasLT1 I found them 10 bucks cheaper here

http://www.docsblocks.com/detail.asp?product_id=aa0336
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #8  
TexasLT1's Avatar
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From: Angleton, TX
Car: '92 RS
dang, nice price. already have mine sitting in the shop though. just have had the time (read desire) to work on it lately.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 03:38 PM
  #9  
Thirim's Avatar
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
ordered the straight fitting and the 90deg one.. just to be sure.. being in Nova Scotia Canada... its gonna be a chore to find someone with enough knowledge in teh AC bus to help me out.. lol.. my car was AC.. and i think it got converted to 134.. so i think all i need are the hoses..
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 10:14 AM
  #10  
Thirim's Avatar
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
dbrunner2 .. DO you have any pictures of the finished product? WOuld like to get a better idea of how you did it. ... im still waiting for my parts. lol
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